横浜近郊の小旅行

ROUTE 2. EXCURSIONS FROM YOKOHAMA. 1. KAMAKURA AND THE DAIBUTSU. 2. ENOSHIMA. 3. DZUSHI AND HORIUCHI. 4. KANAZAWA AND MINE. 5. SUGITA AND TOMIOKA. 6. YOKOSUKA, URAGA, AND MISAKI. 7. THE CAVES OF TOTSUKA. 8. ŌYAMA. 9. ŌISO. 10. KŌZU.

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1.—KAMAKURA. Kamakura is reached from Yokohama in 50 min. by the Tōkaidō Railway, changing carriages at Ōfuna Junction. This branch line continues on to Dzushi and Yokosuka, being altogether 21½ miles in length. Kamakura, once the populous capital of Eastern Japan, has now shrunk into a sea-side village which is a favourite health resort of the Yokohama residents. The *Kaihin-in Hotel or Marine Sanatorium, situated under a pine-grove near the shore, is 20 min. walk from the Railway Station. The Japanese inn, Mitsuhashi, may also be recommended. Both provide hot and cold salt-water baths. Kamakura was the seat of government in Eastern Japan from the end of the 12th to the middle of the 15th century.

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Yoritomo, who established the Shōgunate in 1192, chose this place as his capital, and here was laid the foundation of that peculiar system of government by the military class which prevailed up to the year 1868. The city of Kamakura, in the time of Yoritomo's immediate successors, extended all over the plain and into the recesses of the different yatsu, or dells, which branch off from it among the hills. Its population is believed to have exceeded one million in the days of its glory. Kamakura was the scene of innumerable contests between rival feudal factions, and of many bloody deeds.

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Here on the sea-shore were beheaded the Mongol ambassadors from Kublai Khan, who had imperiously sent to demand the submission of Japan to his sway. The city was repeatedly sacked and laid in ashes, and seems never to have fully recovered from the disasters of the year 1455. The neighbouring city of Odawara, which next rose into importance as the seat of the powerful Hōjō family, attracted to itself large numbers of the inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin of which town was completed by the founding of Yedo in A.D. 1603. The chief sights of Kamakura are the Temple of Hachiman, the Daibutsu or colossal bronze Buddha, and the great image of the goddess Kwannon. They all lie within a mile of the hotel.

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The Temple of Hachiman, the God of War, dating from the end of the 12th century, stands in a commanding position on a hill called Tsuru-ga-oka, and is approached by a stately avenue of pine-trees leading up the whole way from the sea-shore. Though both avenue and temple have suffered from the ravages of time, enough still remains to remind one of the ancient glories of the place. Three stone torii lead up to the temple, which stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps. Notice the magnificent ichō tree, nearly 20 ft. in circumference and said to be over a thousand years old. Before ascending the flight of steps, the minor shrines to the r. deserve passing notice.

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The nearer one, painted red and called Wakamiya, is dedicated to the Emperor Nintoku, son of the God of War. The further one, renovated in 1890, is called Shirahata Jinja and dedicated to Yoritomo. The style and structure are somewhat unusual, black and gold being the only colours employed,

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and iron being the material of the four chief pillars. In the interior is a small wooden image of Yoritomo. A side path leads up hence to the main temple, which is enclosed in a square colonnade painted red. The temple, which was re-erected in 1828 after having been destroyed by fire seven years earlier, is in the Ryōbu-Shintō style, with red pillars, beams, and rafters, and is decorated with small painted carvings chiefly of birds and animals. In the colonnade are several religious cars (mikoshi) used on the occasion of the semi-annual festival (15th April and 15th September), a wooden image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei, and a few relics of Yoritomo.

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Most of the relics once preserved in the temple have been removed to the residence of the Chief Priest (Hakozaki Oyatsu-kwan), and are only exhibited at festival time. Immediately behind the temple of Hachiman, is a small hill called Shirahata-yama, whence Yoritomo is said to have often admired the prospect. The base of the hill has recently been enclosed and laid out as a garden. The Daibutsu, or “Great Buddha,” stands alone among Japanese works of art. No other gives such an impression of majesty, or so truly symbolises the central idea of Buddhism—the intellectual calm which comes of perfected knowledge and the subjugation of all passion. But to be fully appreciated, the Daibutsu must be visited many times.

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There had been a temple in this place since the 8th century, but the image is of much later date. Its precise history is involved in obscurity. Tradition, however, says that Yoritomo, when taking part in the dedication of the Daibutsu at Nara, conceived the desire of having a similar object of worship at his own capital, but died before he could put the plan into execution. One of the ladies of his court undertook to collect funds for the purpose, and in the year 1252 the Kamakura Daibutsu was cast by Ono Gorōemon. History tells of two such images.

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The first, a wooden one, was designed by a priest who collected money far and wide amongst all classes, and in 1238 the head of the image, 80 ft. in circumference, was in its place, while the temple in which it stood was completed in 1241 and dedicated in 1243. This image is said to have represented Amida, and to have been destroyed by a tempest. The second is spoken of as a gilt bronze image of Shaka, and the casting is said to have been begun in 1252. The present one represents Amida, and notwithstanding the difference of name, is probably the bronze image spoken of above as dating from 1252. It was enclosed in a large building 50 yds. square, whose roof was supported on sixty-three massive wooden pillars.

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Many of the stone bases on which they stood are still in situ. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal waves in 1369 and 1494, after which they were not rebuilt. Since that time the image has remained exposed to the elements. The Daibutsu is best seen from about half-way up the approach. Its dimensions are approximately as follows:— Height 49 ft. 7 in.; Circumference 97 ft. 2 in.; Length of face 8 ft. 5 in.; Width from ear to ear 17 ft. 9 in.; Round white boss on forehead 1 ft. 3 in.; Length of eye 3 ft. 11 in.; Length of eyebrow 4 ft. 2 in.; Length of ear 6 ft. 6 in.; Length of nose 3 ft. 9 in.; Width of mouth 3 ft. 2 in.; Height of bump of wisdom 9 in.; Diameter of bump of wisdom 2 ft.

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4 in.; Curls (of which there are 830): Height 9 in.; Do. Diameter 1 in.; Length from knee to knee 35 ft. 8 in.; Circumference of thumb 3 ft. The eyes are of pure gold, and the silver boss weighs 30 pounds avoirdupois. The image is formed of sheets of bronze cast separately, brazed together, and finished off on the outside with the chisel. The hollow interior of the image

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contains a small shrine, and the visitor may ascend into the head. The Temple of Kwannon stands not far from the Daibutsu on an eminence commanding a beautiful view of the sea-shore towards Misaki, and over the plain of Kamakura. The great image of the Goddess of Mercy, for which this temple is celebrated, stands behind folding doors which a small fee to the attendant priest will suffice to open; but the figure can only be indistinctly seen by the dim light of a few candles. It is of brown lacquer gilded over, and its height is 30 ft. 5½ in. The admirable bronze seated figure of Dainichi Nyorai on the l. was presented by the Shōgun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (b. 1436, d. 1490).

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Close to this temple is a cliff called Inamura-ga-saki, from the top of which a magnificent view can be obtained. In 1333, when the city of Kamakura was attacked by the partisans of the Emperor Go-Daigo, part of the force led by Nitta Yoshisada advanced along the strand from the W. of this hill, but were unable to pass under the cliff owing to chevaux-de-frise being placed against it down to the water's edge, while their passage in boats was prevented by a long row of war-junks lying some 500 or 600 yds. out at sea.

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Yoshisada therefore climbed the cliff, and after praying to the Sea-God, flung his sword into the sea, whereupon the tide miraculously retreated, leaving a space a mile and a half wide at the foot of the cliff, along which he marched his army into Kamakura.

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2.—ENOSHIMA. This most picturesque spot, though called an island, is more properly a peninsula; for only at very high tides is it surrounded by the sea. The prettiest way there is by the road called Shichi-ri-ga-hama* skirting the beach from Kamakura, and through the village of Katase. The distance from Kamakura is 4 miles. Jinrikishas can be taken as far as Katase, whence it is a short walk across the neck of sand joining Enoshima to the mainland. A slightly more direct way of approaching Enoshima is from Fujisawa station on the Tōkaidō Railway, whence it is 1 ri by jinrikisha to Katase.

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Half way is the Yukiai-gawa, which, though but an insignificant streamlet, is worthy of mention on account of the following incident:— When Nichiren was miraculously delivered from the hand of the executioner at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe, a messenger was at once despatched to Kamakura to ask for further orders, while at the same moment a reprieve was sent from the palace of the Regent Tokiyori. The two messengers happened to meet at this stream, whence the name of Yukiai-gawa, which means “the river of meeting.” Enoshima, being a popular holiday resort, is full of excellent inns. The best are the Iwamoto-in, Kinkirō, and Ebisu-ya. There is fair sea-bathing.

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The shops of Enoshima are full of shells, corals, and marine curiosities generally, many of which are brought from other parts of the coast for sale. The beautiful “glass rope sponge” (Hyalonema sieboldi), called hosugai by the Japanese, is said to be obtained from a reef deep below the surface of the sea not far from the island of Ōshima, whose smoking top is visible to the S. on a clear day. From the earliest ages the island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist Goddess of Luck; but this cult has now been exchanged for that of three Shintō goddesses. To these objects of worship several temples have been re-dedicated. But the spot considered most sacred of all is the large cave on the far side of the island.

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It is 124 yds. in depth, the height at the entrance being at least 30 ft., but diminishing gradually towards the interior. The rocks near the cave are frequented by divers, who for a few cents bring up shell-fish from the deep, which, however, they are suspected of having previously concealed about their persons. [Note: Literally, the “seven ri shore,” the ri in early times having only consisted of six chō in Eastern Japan.]

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At Katase stands the temple of Ryūkōji, founded after Nichiren's death by six of his disciples, and built on the spot where his execution was to have taken place. It possesses a number of excellent wood-carvings.

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3.—DZUSHI AND HORIUCHI. Dzushi, on the railway, 2½ miles to the S.E. of Kamakura, is the station for Horiuchi, 1½ miles distant, which has lately risen into favour as a sea-side resort, some of the wealthier residents of Tōkyō and Yokohama having built villas there. The road from Dzushi to Horiuchi is practicable for jinrikishas, and the view from it one of the loveliest in Japan,—Fuji, which rises straight from the waters of Odawara Bay, forming the central feature of the scene. The Hikage-no-Chaya inn at Horiuchi may be recommended. A little nearer the station, across a ferry, there is another inn known as the Onsen,—rather a poor place, but with better bathing.

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From the Hikage-no-Chaya, bathers have a walk of about 3 min. to reach a good beach. Half a mile beyond the Hikage-no-Chaya there is a beautiful wooded promontory called Morita Myōjin, and the whole walk for 2 m. further along the coast unfolds a succession of exquisite scenes.

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4.—KANAZAWA AND MINE. Jinrikishas may be taken the whole way; two men required. The total distance is 4 ri 30 chō (11¾ miles), the road being flat for the first 6 m., as far as the hamlet of Seki (Inn, Ishikawa-ya), and after that, very hilly. [At the hamlet of Tanaka, 10 chō beyond Seki, a road practicable most of the way for jinrikishas, turns off r. to a hill called Mine, which commands a wonderfully extensive view. The finest prospect is towards the N., looking down on a multitude of furrowed ridges that stretch away to the mountains of Kōtsuke. To the W., the sea is visible near Hiratsuka and Ōiso on the Tōkaidō, and beyond it, Fuji with the Ōyama and Hakone ranges.

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The distance from Tanaka to Mine is 28 chō, say 2 miles.] On reaching the crest of the ridge, the wondrous beauty which has led the foreign residents to bestow on this neighbourhood the name of the Plains of Heaven, suddenly reveals itself. A scene of perfect loveliness may be enjoyed from a wayside tea-house called Nōkendō, which nestles under a pine-tree known as the Fude-sute-matsu, because a Japanese artist of olden times here flung away his pencil in despair.

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At the spectator's feet is a wide, cultivated valley, bordered by pine-clad hills and opening out to the shores of an inlet, whose still waters are partly hemmed in by small peninsulas and islets, with to the l. the promontory of Kwannon-saki, and on the opposite side of Tōkyō Bay the long crest of Nokogiri-yama. The most conspicuous of the islands are Natsushima (Webster Island) with Sarushima (Perry Island) beyond it, and Eboshi-jima which is much smaller and to be recognised by its triangular shape. But a mere catalogue of names can avail nothing towards conveying an idea of the peculiar magic of a scene which might be

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the original that inspired the Japanese landscape painter's art. Kanazawa (Inns, Chiyo-moto, Azuma-ya), on the shores of the Mutsura Inlet, is chiefly noted for its Hak-kei, a characteristically Japanese view from a small height just outside the village. Close to the ferry at Nojima (Inn, Nishino-ya) is a celebrated peony garden, which attracts crowds from Tōkyō during the season of flowering. Some of the plants are said to be over 300 years old. Kanazawa may also be reached by the coast road viâ Tomioka on foot in 3 hrs.

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The way back to Yokohama may be pleasantly varied by taking the jinrikisha road across the neck of the little peninsula of Misaki to the Dzushi station on the Yokosuka branch of the Tōkaidō Railway, a distance of 2½ ri (6 miles). The run in from Dzushi to Yokohama takes 1 hr. This trip may advantageously be combined with a visit to Kamakura, the station beyond Dzushi.

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5.—SUGITA AND TOMIOKA. It is a very pleasant walk or jinrikisha ride of about 2 ri, or 4¾ miles, from Yokohama to Sugita (Inns, Azuma-ya and others), famous for its plum-blossoms; and 1 ri further on to Tomioka (Inns, Kimpa-rō, Kaihin-rō), a favourite resort of the Yokohama residents, on account of the good sea-bathing in Mississippi Bay. Tomioka may also be easily reached by boat from the cutting at the back of the Settlement in about 40 min., the distance from the Settlement to the point where the boat is taken being approximately 1 ri. The whole neighbourhood is delightfully picturesque. A favourite afternoon's walk is to Macpherson's Hill (Moritsuka), on the way to Sugita.

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This hill commands a fine view of Mississippi Bay and of the country towards Fuji.

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6.—YOKOSUKA, URAGA, AND MISAKI. Yokosuka is the terminus of the Ōfuna—Kamakura—Dzushi—Yokosuka branch line of railway, and is reached from Yokohama in 1¼ hr. Steamers also ply between Yokohama and Yokosuka several times daily. The little line of railway passes through characteristically Japanese scenery—wooded hills rising up abruptly from valleys laid out in rice-fields, with here and there a cottage or a tiny shrine half-hidden in a rustic bower. The train darts in and out of short tunnels under some of these hills before reaching the sea-shore at Yokosuka.

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Yokosuka (Inn, Mitomi-ya; Foreign restaurant, Kaiyō-ken), which but a few years ago was a poor village, is rapidly growing in importance, on account of the Government Dockyard established there. Foreigners can usually obtain admittance by presenting their cards at the gate; but it is safer to provide oneself with an introduction from the naval authorities. The town is prettily situated on a landlocked bay. Its chief interest for Englishmen lies in the fact that here lived and died Will Adams, the first Englishman that ever reached the shores of Japan. Will Adams, a native of Gillingham in Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch ships which reached the Southern coast of Japan on the 19th April, A.D. 1600.

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Brought as a prisoner into the presence of Ieyasu, Adams soon won the favour of that astute ruler, who employed him both as a ship-builder and as a kind of diplomatic agent when other English and Dutch traders began to arrive. Adams' constantly reiterated desire to behold his native land again and the wife and children whom he had left behind, was to the last frustrated by adverse circumstances. He consoled himself by taking another wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived until his death in 1620 at Hemi, a suburb of Yokosuka, where the railway station now stands.

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His grave and that of his Japanese wife are situated on the top of a hill, ½ hr. walk from the railway station. The Japanese call the place Anjin-zuka, from Anjin which means “pilot,” that having been the appellation by which Adams was commonly known. The tombs are of stone in the ordinary Japanese style. Will Adams' monument is without an inscription, while that of his wife bears the posthumous title which every good Buddhist receives from the priests of the parish temple. The site has been well-cared for ever since the discovery and identification of the tombs in 1872 by Mr. James Walter of Yokohama.

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Not only is the situation of the graves most picturesque, but the eminence on which they stand affords a lovely view of land and sea. The place is to be recommended as a pleasant spot for a picnic. Another vantage-point just outside the opposite or E. end of Yokosuka, is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on which stands a temple of the Nichiren sect called Ryūhonji, possessing some good carvings. The level stretches at the foot of the cliffs have recently been reclaimed from the sea. The distance from Yokosuka to Uraga is 1 ri 32 chō (4½ miles) along an excellent road. A little more than half-way lies the hamlet of Ōtsu, where there is excellent Japanese accommodation at the Ōtsu-kwan, with a good beach for sea-bathing.

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Uraga (Inn, *Yoshikawa in Nishi-Uraga) is built on both sides of a very narrow fiord-like harbour, and the two divisions thus formed are called respectively Higashi Uraga and Nishi Uraga, i.e., East and West Uraga. They are connected by a bridge and a ferry. In former times all junks entering the Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for inspection, and it was here that Commodore Perry anchored on the 8th July, 1853, bearing with him the letter of President Fillmore to the Shōgun, the result of which was to open Japan to foreign intercourse. Uraga is noted for its manufacture of mizu-ame, a sweet and wholesome preparation from sake-malt, somewhat resembling honey in taste.

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It is worth while devoting ¼ hr. to the climb up Atago-yama, a hill at the back of Nishi Uraga, close to the Yoshikawa Inn, commanding a fine view of the town and harbour. The hills beyond the sea to the E. are the Bōshū range. Uraga is in daily steam communication with Tōkyō, the steamers touching at Kachiyama, Tateyama, and other ports on the Bōshū side. The passage from Tōkyō takes about 4 hours. It is a walk or jinrikisha ride of 4 ri 3 chō (10 miles) to Misaki, first along the sands, and then over a cultivated upland commanding a fine view of Fuji, the Hakone and Ōyama ranges, and the opposite shores of the bay.

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Misaki (Inns, Ki-no-kuni-ya, Aoyagi; accommodation can also be obtained at Jōgashima) offers, as a somewhat unusual attraction, a Marine Biological Laboratory (Misaki Rinkai Jikken-jō) connected with the Science College of the Imperial University. The marine fauna of this district being particularly rich in rare forms, dredging has produced results highly interesting to the zoologist. A lighthouse stands on the island of Jōgashima, 15 chō from the mainland, with which it is connected by a ferry. One may complete the tour of the Sagami Peninsula, at the extremity of which Misaki stands, by a pleasant walk of about 7 ri (17 miles) along the coast to Dzushi or Kamakura.

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7.—THE CAVES OF TOTSUKA. (Taya no Ana.) Though known to foreigners as the Caves of Totsuka, these caves

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are really nearer to Ōfuna, the next station beyond Totsuka on the Tōkaidō Railway, 40 min. run from Yokohama. They lie at a distance of 12 or 15 chō from Ōfuna station, but nearly 1½ ri from Totsuka station. Whichever station it be decided to alight at, the trip on to the caves can be done by jinrikisha, and lies through pretty scenery. The caves are well worth a visit; but as they are apt to be wet, it is advisable to wear old clothes for the occasion. The best time to choose is the spring, as the cherry-trees too will then be seen to advantage. Candles are provided at a house near the entrance, where also it would be possible to picnic.

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A local guide will point out the Buddhist carvings with which the walls and ceilings are adorned. These caves with their carvings are a monument of modern Buddhist piety. Existing in embryo since the Middle Ages (they are said by tradition to have served for the concealment both of troops and of treasure in the 14th century), they have only been excavated to their present extent by an old man still living—one Satō Shichizaemon, also known as Kinoue-no-Inkyo—whose family have for generations been rich peasants in this locality. In the year 1851, this man was urged in a dream to devote his life to making these caves into an imperishable shrine to various Buddhist divinities, and especially to the Goddess Benten.

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This he accordingly did and still continues to do, employing his own money for the enterprise and local talent for the carvings. Among the latter may be distinguished angels, dragons, lions, birds both natural and mythical, the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac, the Eighteen Rakan, the Thirty-Three Kwannon of the district of Chichibu, and other Buddhas innumerable. To explore the caves properly takes about 1 hr. The rock being quite soft, it may be feared that this strange monument will not prove as lasting as old Mr. Satō piously anticipates. 8.—ŌYAMA.

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This celebrated mountain, about 4,000 ft. high, is most easily reached from Yokohama by alighting at Hiratsuka station on the Tōkaidō Railway, a run of a little over 1 hr.; thence by jinrikisha to the vill. of Ōyama on the lower slope, 3½ ri (9½ miles) distant. It is a favourite goal of pilgrims, who continue to be attracted to its shrine, although the old Buddhist objects of worship have here, as in so many other parts of the country, been replaced officially by comparatively obscure Shintō deities. Indeed, according to Satow, it is uncertain who these gods are; but the best authority asserts that the chief deity is Iwanaga-hime, sister to the goddess of Mount Fuji.

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The people of the neighbouring country-side often call the mountain by the name of Sekison-san. Jinrikishas are left at the vill. of Koyasu (Inn, Koma-ya), a long street of steps, which at its upper end changes its name to Ōyama (Inn, *Kame-ya, with curious garden). Such of the inhabitants as do not keep houses of entertainment for the pilgrims who flock here during the month of June, busy themselves with the manufacture of rosaries, toys, and domestic utensils. The traveller will notice that the posts of two shrines in the village are so much cut away in the centre as scarcely any longer to support the roof. This has been done by devotees who believe that the chips act as charms.

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The ascent and descent of the mountain take from 4 to 4½ hrs., but are far more fatiguing than

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most climbs of the same length owing to the multitude of steps. A little way beyond the inns, a stream rushes out of a hole in a rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and falls into a pool, in which it is considered highly meritorious to bathe as long as the cold can be endured. Some way further up, the entrance to the sacred domain is indicated by a torii perched on the top of a flight of steps. Here the traveller has to choose between the Otoko-zaka (“man's ascent”), and Onna-zaka (“woman's ascent”), the former a continuous series of steep flights of high steps, the latter longer but less fatiguing. Both paths unite higher up.

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The view from this point includes the plains of Sagami and Musashi, with the river Banyū, Capes Misaki and Sunosaki at the entrance of Tōkyō Bay, the sea, and the mountains of Kazusa. Some flights of steps lead up to the main temple, whence it is a climb of 28 chō to the summit which commands a view of Fuji, the wooded top of Tanzawa, the mountains of Nikkō, Enoshima, etc. 9.—ŌISO AND KŌZU. Ōiso is 1½ hr. from Yokohama by the Tōkaidō Railway. A pleasant day may here be spent loitering on the beautiful beach and bathing in the sea. There is a lovely view:—to the r., Fuji, the Hakone range, and the peninsula of Izu; ahead, Vries Island; to the l., the promontory of Misaki with the islet of Enoshima.

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The Tōryō-kwan at Ōiso is an excellent inn in Japanese style, at which some simple European dishes, such as fried fish, omelette, and chicken, may be obtained, and where there is a resident doctor. Ōiso, though apparently so insignificant a place, is of considerable antiquity. Mention of it occurs in the story of the Soga Brothers' Revenge in the 12th century (see Route 6). Kōzu (Inn, Hayano), the station beyond Ōiso, is another pleasant sea-side village, having much the same view, and well-protected from cold winter winds—an advantage to which the groves of orange-trees covering all the surrounding slopes bear witness.

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