箱根地方 宮ノ下・箱根

ROUTE 6. THE HAKONE DISTRICT: MIYANOSHITA, HAKONE. 1. GENERAL INFORMATION. 2. MIYANOSHITA AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 3. HAKONE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD.

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1.—General Information. This route is specially recommended, as uniting charm of scenery, accessibility, and an unusual degree of comfort. All tourists arriving at Yokohama are advised to devote a week to it, and if they have not so much time at their disposal, then to devote two or three days to a portion of it. Even should they be disinclined for walking and sightseeing, they will find no place more pleasant for idling in at all seasons than Miyanoshita.

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The word Hakone, it should be observed, though employed by us, as by all Europeans, to denote the village called by the Japanese Hakone-no-Shuku, Hakone-no-Eki, or Hakone-Mura, is properly the general name of the entire mountainous district lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu, between the Bays of Odawara and Suruga. For this reason the Japanese talk of Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being ‘in Hakone.’ The original name of Hakone Lake (now, however, used only in poetry) is Ashi-no-Umi, that is, ‘the Sea of Reeds.’ Hence the name of the hot springs of Ashinoyu. The lake is, in round numbers, 1½ ri long, 4½ ri round, and has a depth of 37 fathoms in its deepest part.

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The following are the heights of the chief villages and mountains mentioned in this route:— Ashinoyu 2,870 feet. Dai-ga-take 3,500 feet. Dōgashima 1,080 feet. Futago-yama 3,620 feet. Hakone 2,400 feet. Higane (temple near Atami) 2,400 feet. Kamiyama 4,770 feet. Kiga 1,400 feet. Kintoki-zan 4,060 feet. Kojigoku 2,100 feet. Koma-ga-take 4,500 feet. Miyagino 1,500 feet.

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Miyanoshita, 1,400 feet. Myōjin-ga-take, 3,880 feet. Myōjō-ga-take, 3,080 feet. Ōjigoku, 3,466 feet. Otome-tōge, 3,333 feet. Saijōji (temple), 1,244 feet. Sengoku-hara, 2,170 feet. Ten Province Pass, 3,216 feet. Ubago, 2,940 feet. Yumoto, 400 feet.

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2.—MIYANOSHITA AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Miyanoshita (Hotels, **Fuji-ya; *Nara-ya, both large establishments in foreign style) is easily reached from Yokohama by the Tōkaidō Railway to Kōzu station, 1½ hr.; thence by tram, jinrikisha, or carriage to Yumoto, 1 hr.; thence by jinrikisha (at least two men necessary) or on foot for 1½ ri up the valley of the Hayakawa to Miyanoshita, nearly 1 hr. by jinrikisha, 1¼ hr. on foot—say 4½ hrs. for the whole journey, including stoppages. From Tōkyō it is 1 hr. more, or 5½ hrs. in all. Tram Itinerary along Plain. Kōzu to: Odawara, 1 ri 28 chō, 4¼ m.; Yumoto, 2 ri 10 chō, 5½ m.; total, 4 ri 2 chō, 10 m. Walking or Jinrikisha Itinerary up New Road.

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Yumoto to: Tōnosawa, 6½ chō, ½ m.; Miyanoshita, 1 ri 16½ chō, 3½ m.; Kiga, 9 chō, ½ m.; Miyagino, 5 chō, ¼ m.; total, 2 ri 1 chō, 5 m. At Kōzu (Inn, Hayano), it is worth devoting a few minutes to walking out on the beach to look at the beautiful view of Odawara Bay, with, to the r., the peninsula of Izu on whose coast Atami is situated, the volcano of Ōshima (Vries Island), and the islet of Enoshima to the l. Turning round, one has a magnificent view of Fuji. The road from Kōzu to Yumoto (the old Tōkaidō) leads for the first part of the way through the town of Odawara (Inn, Koise-ya), celebrated in Japanese history as the scene of many bloody conflicts in feudal times.

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Odawara belonged successively to various families of Daimyōs, who dwelt in the castle which was not finally destroyed till the time of the late revolution. The most celebrated of these families were the Hōjō, a younger branch of the family of ‘Regents’ who ruled over Japan during the 13th century and the first three decades of the 14th. This younger branch, choosing Odawara as their capital in A.D. 1495, continued to reside there for five generations, namely, till 1590, when they were defeated and the power of their house broken for ever by the Taikō Hideyoshi in the battle of Ishikake-yama.

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Retiring to their castle, the various commanding officers on the Hōjō side could come to no agreement, as time wore on, as to whether it were better to await the onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth themselves and offer battle. While they were still discussing this question in all its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden attack and captured the castle by a coup de main. Hence the proverbial saying, Odawara hyōgi, that is, ‘the Odawara conference,’ which means endless talk resulting in nothing. Among the common people, who care not for the deeds of days gone by, Odawara is chiefly noted for the manufacture of a quack medicine called uirō, which is looked on as a panacea for all the ills to which flesh is heir.

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The tram-car changes horses opposite the ruined walls of the castle. On leaving Odawara, the road enters the valley of the Hayakawa near the mouth of that stream, which takes its origin in Lake Hakone. The two round summits seen almost constantly ahead are Futago-yama, ‘the Twin Mountains.’ The avenue to the r. of the tram road marks the old Tōkaidō, which carriages and jinrikishas still follow. At Yumoto, 10 min. out of the vill., there is a cascade known as Tamadare no taki. A small fee is

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charged for admittance. Yumoto boasts a large inn, called Fukuzumi; but it would seem to be conducted with a view to the almost exclusive reception of Japanese guests. Foreigners obliged to break the journey are therefore advised to push on 6½ chō further to the village of Tōnosawa, where the Tamano-yu Hotel will be found a pleasanter abode, owing to the fact that European food and beds are provided. There are also good hot springs. The white building, which strikes the eye on the hill opposite, is a Russian chapel. The mosaic woodwork (hiji-mono), which from Yumoto onwards fills such a prominent place in every shop-window, is the specialty for which the whole Miyanoshita-Hakone district is noted.

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The hamlet more than half way up from Yumoto to Miyanoshita is Ōhiradai. On the r. side there is a good wood-work shop, Watanabe, whose specialty is the fine bamboo basket-work of Shizuoka. Miyanoshita is a pleasant resort for many reasons—the purity of the air, the excellence of the hotels, the numerous pretty walks both short and long, the plentiful supply of ‘chairs’ and of specially large and comfortable kagos for those who prefer being carried, and the delicious hot baths, which, containing but faint traces of salt and soda, may be used without medical advice. The principal short walks are:— 1.

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To Kiga by the new road (distance, 9 chō, say ¼ hr.):—no climbing, good waterfalls on the way, beautiful gold-fish to feed with cakes at the Sengoku-ya tea-house. Equally flat and pleasant road 5 chō further up the valley of the Hayakawa to Miyagino.

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The Kiga walk may be varied by taking the still more picturesque but less easy old road, turning sharp up to the l. on leaving the Fuji-ya Hotel, passing through the village of Sokokura, where most Japanese visitors to the springs stop in preference to Miyanoshita, then down to the r., and over an old rustic bridge, where cascades of cold water and pipes leading hot water to the hotels may be seen in strange juxtaposition; thence to the charming little tea-house of Mi-harashi, with extensive view of the valley and uplands and Kiga below, and so on down to Kiga itself (11 chō altogether).

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Kiga, though little patronised by foreigners on account of its want of airiness, is a favourite resort of the Japanese, and boasts several excellent inns in native style, also a new one in foreign style called Isé-ya. 2. To Dōgashima, a village some few hundred yards below Miyanoshita, down a steep ravine. There are a pretty cascade and a charming villa, permission to visit which may sometimes be obtained through the proprietors of the Miyanoshita hotels. 3. Walk down the new road in the direction of Tōnosawa to the toll-houses (8½ chō), or on to Ōhiradai (17 chō). 4. Climb half-way up Sengen-yama, the wooded hill immediately at the back of the bachelors’ quarters of the Fuji-ya Hotel.

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It is a steep pull of from 20 min. to ½ hr. The height has been roughly estimated at 1,000 ft. above the village. Tea-shed on the top. Beautiful view of upper half of Fuji, the tooth-shaped mountain Kintoki-zan, and on the other side, the sea with Enoshima and Cape Misaki. Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.), less good walking, but very picturesque are:— 5. To Kiga and Miyagino, as in No. 1; then cross the river and turn sharp to the r., walking home

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on the other side, and re-crossing to the Miyanoshita side at Dōgashima. Guide indispensable. This is the most beautiful of all the walks near Miyanoshita. It takes a good walker a little over 1 hr. 6. Up to Kojigoku; then down past the hamlet of Ninotaira to Miyagino and Kiga, whence home either by the new or the old road. This walk may be abridged by turning to the r. before reaching Kojigoku, almost all the paths r. leading down ultimately to the Kiga road. Some persons may feel tempted to stay at Kojigoku rather than at Miyanoshita, as the former place is some 700 ft. higher, and consequently has fresher air. The only disadvantage is the loneliness of the spot.

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The Kaikwatei Hotel is under foreign management, and the Mikawa-ya is a good Japanese inn. The meaning of the name Kojigoku is ‘small hell.’ It was given to the place in allusion to some small sulphur springs, which supply the hotel baths. In 1877, on the occasion of the visit of H.M. the Mikado, the name of Kojigoku was officially altered to Kowaki-dani, which means ‘the valley of the lesser boiling.’ But the older name appears to be still the more popular of the two. A good half-day’s excursion is to:— 7. Ōjigoku, or ‘big hell,’ alternatively named Ōwaki-dani, ‘the valley of the greater boiling,’ distant a little under 2 ri to the top of the gorge. Neither name is a misnomer.

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The whole gorge reeks with sulphureous fumes, vegetation decreases as one ascends higher, and the aspect of the scene becomes weird and desolate. It is advisable to tread carefully after the guide, as more lives than one have been sacrificed by a false step on the treacherous crust. The view from the top of the gorge differs as widely in its charms from the scene of desolation just traversed as can well be imagined. In the centre, Fuji towers up in perfect beauty. To the extreme r. is Kintoki-zan, then the Otome-tōge, the Nagao-tōge, and to the l. the more imposing slopes of Ashitaka.

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The summit of Kammuri-ga-take, which rises up immediately behind the sulphur springs, distinguishes itself by its graceful outline and by the dense forest covering its sides. The vegetation of this neighbourhood, moreover, is remarkable, consisting as it does chiefly of the small box and asemi (Andromeda japonica). 8. Up Myōjō-ga-take, the big grassy hill immediately opposite Miyanoshita, on the other side of the stream. It is a walk of 1¼ hr. to the top, the path at first leading down through the vill. of Dōgashima, there crossing the stream, and then turning considerably to the r., before turning l. again along the crest of the hill. The view from the summit is magnificent.

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In the centre is Fuji, the depression immediately in front of which is the Otome-tōge; then to the r. Kintoki and Myōjin-ga-take, behind which rise Ōyama and Tanzawa; in the plain the Sakawa-gawa, and behind it the low range of Soga-yama, in which a red treeless patch marks the Kōzu railway station. The town of Odawara can be seen by walking back a few yards; then the sea with Ōshima, and to the r. the low slope of Ishikake-yama; then Futago-yama, Koma-ga-take, Kami-yama, and Dai-ga-take. The clear spot on Kami-yama is the solfatara of Sō-on-jigoku. Still further to the r., in the blue distance, is Ashitaka-yama. The best time to see this view is at sunrise or at sunset.

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The coolie should therefore carry a lantern, either for the first or for the last portion of the walk. Those who are willing to face a very stony path for the sake of continued beautiful views, are advised to return via Miyagino and Kiga. The whole

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expedition will then take from 3 to 3½ hrs., including stoppages. 9. To Ashinoyu and Hakone (1 ri 4 chō to Ashinoyu, thence 1 ri on to Hakone). Ashinoyu (Inns, *Matsuzaka-ya, foreign food and beds; Kinokuni-ya) is famous for its sulphur springs, whose efficacy in the treatment of skin diseases and rheumatism attracts crowds of Japanese patients and not a few foreigners, despite the bleak uninviting appearance of the locality. Ashinoyu is very cool in summer, owing to its height, but pays for this advantage by being frequently enveloped in mist. The road thither, about half of which is a stiff pull, leads close by Kojigoku.

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Just before reaching Ashinoyu, towards the end of a steep climb called the Nana-mawari, or ‘seven turnings,’ the guide should be told to lead over a small eminence known as Benten-yama. It is not at all out of the way, and offers a splendid view—Odawara Bay, the peninsula of Miura with Enoshima like a little knob on the coast; and beyond that, Tōkyō Bay and the blue outline of the provinces of Kazusa and Bōshū, which divide Tōkyō Bay from the Pacific. The chief mountain to the l. is Ōyama, bluntly triangular in shape. Ashinoyu itself has no view, as it lies in a marshy depression, though on the top of a hill.

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[On a hill 8 chō beyond Ashinoyu, at a place called Yu-no-hanazawa, a bathing establishment with very strong sulphur baths has recently been opened. There is a splendid view, similar to that from Benten-yama. This walk, and that along the flat in the direction of Hakone, are the two best for invalids staying at Ashinoyu.] After leaving Ashinoyu, the path is at first level, and then descends most of the way to Hakone.

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The first object of interest passed is, l., a set of three small stone monuments, two of which are dedicated to the Soga Brothers (Soga Kyōdai), famous for the vendetta which they executed in the hunting-camp of the Shōgun Yoritomo, at the base of Fuji, in the year 1193, on Kudō Suketsune, the murderer of their father. The third and smallest of the monuments preserves the memory of Tora Gozen, a beautiful courtesan of the town of Ōiso, who was the mistress of the elder of the two brothers, and became a nun on his decease.

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A few yards further on, to the l. and half-hidden among the grass and bushes, is a block of andesite rock well-worth pausing a moment to inspect, as it is covered with Buddhist images carved in relief. These images are known as the Ni-jū-go-Bosatsu, that is, ‘the 25 Bosatsu;’ but which of the many thousands of these divine beings they are intended to represent, is uncertain. The carving apparently dates from A.D. 1293. But the chief curiosity on the road is the large Image of Jizō, carved in relief on a block of andesite, and worthy to be counted among the triumphs of the Japanese chisel. Tradition has it that the great Buddhist saint, Kōbō Daishi, carved this image in a single night.

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A festival in its honour is celebrated yearly on the 23rd August. [A short way past this large image, the way up the nearer of Futago-yama’s two chief summits turns off to the l. The ascent, which will take a good walker 20 min. or ½ hr. from this spot, is worth making—perhaps most conveniently as a separate walk from Miyanoshita or from Hakone,—the ancient crater, now thickly carpeted with moss and overgrown with bushes and trees, being remarkably extensive, and the view from its upper rim, which is clear of wood, being magnificent.

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The chief points to be noticed are: to the N.E., the Ōyama and Tanzawa ranges, with the plain of Sagami, and in the distance Tōkyō Bay; to the E., Sagami Bay and the promontories of Misaki and Sunosaki, with the islet of Enoshima; to the S.E., Vries Island with its ceaseless column of smoke, and the smaller islands of Toshima, Niijima, etc., forming with it and with more distant Hachijō the ‘Seven Isles of Izu;’ to the S., Amagi-san in Izu, and to the r. of it the blue Gulf of Suruga with its line of white surf, and the narrow pine-clad promontory of Mio-no-Matsubara shutting in Shimizu Bay; to the W.N.W., and seemingly within a few yards of the spectator, Kammuri-ga-take, which unfortunately hides the whole of Fuji except a small portion of one slope; to the N.W. and N., the mountains of Kōshū and Chichibu.

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At the spectator’s feet sparkle the waters of Lake Hakone. The long mountain-ridge beyond the lake and a little to the l., is called Taikō-yama or Taikō-michi, from a tradition to the effect that the Taikō Hideyoshi led his troops along it when going to fight the battle of Ishikake-yama. The way was shown him—so it is alleged—by a hunter, whom he thereupon killed, in order to make sure that the enemy should not profit by the poor fellow’s local knowledge. It is possible to ascend the further summit of Futago-yama (Shita-Futago); but the labour of forcing one’s way through the thick undergrowth is not repaid, as the summit itself is covered with trees and bushes that shut out all view.

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Koma-ga-take, also, may be ascended r. from near the large image of Jizō. But though the loftiest mountain in the Hakone range excepting Kami-yama, it is less worth climbing than Futago-yama, as the plateau-like nature of the top makes it impossible to take in the whole of the view from any single spot. It has, however, the advantage of showing Fuji from peak to base. A boulder at the top of Koma-ga-take is the subject of a curious superstition. It is believed that the water contained in the hollows of this boulder never runs dry; and the peasants of the surrounding country make pilgrimages to it in seasons of drought, in order to obtain rain by scattering the drops about to the four winds.

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But if any of the water be taken down the mountain, the result is a typhoon.—Koma-ga-take may also be ascended from a point nearer the vill. of Ashinoyu; but the climb is then considerably steeper.] The two meres, r. and l., on the way between Ashinoyu and Hakone, are the remains of ancient craters. The first hamlet reached on getting to the lake is Moto-Hakone, 12 chō this side of Hakone itself. There is an inn called the Tsuta-ya, pleasantly situated on the border of the lake, and commanding the best view of Fuji to be had in this neighbourhood.

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Instead of returning to Miyanoshita by the way one has come, it will be found pleasant in warm weather to take a boat from Hakone (or from Moto-Hakone, which shortens the expedition by one mile) to a spot called Shin-yu at the far end of the lake (the Japanese designation for the far-end of the lake is Umi-jiri). Alighting there, we go past the pleasant little bathing village of Ubago, up the spur separating the lake from Ōjigoku, and return home to Miyanoshita

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by the Ōjigoku way, as in walk No. 7. Those who have done the expedition, not on foot, but in chairs or kagos, can take these conveyances with them in the boat, and can be carried most of the way home from Shin-yu. It is only necessary to walk over the dangerous portion of the Ōjigoku gorge. Instead of taking a boat, some may prefer to follow the path along the edge of the lake. The distances, if this extension be adopted, are stated to be: Miyanoshita to: Ashinoyu, 1 ri 4 chō, 2¾ m.; Moto-Hakone, 23 chō, 1½ m.; Hakone, 12 chō, ¾ m.; Umijiri, 1 ri 18 chō, 3¾ m.; Ubago, 12 chō, ¾ m.; Ōjigoku, 8 chō, ½ m.; Miyanoshita, 1 ri 34 chō, 4¾ m.; total, 6 ri 3 chō, 14¾ m. The above distances are perhaps under-estimated.

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10. Up nearly as far as Ashinoyu, thence sharp l. for 30 chō down a steep and stony, but picturesque path, which passes through the vill. of Hata on the old Tōkaidō. The return to Miyanoshita is made viâ Yumoto, Tōnosawa, and Ōhiradai, up the old road—total distance, about 5½ ri. The 30 chō descent from near Ashinoyu is called the Taki-zaka, that is, ‘cascade hill,’ on account of a pretty cascade seen to the r. about two-thirds of the way down. 11. To the top of the Otome-tōge, or ‘Maiden’s Pass,’ distant 2½ ri (6 m.), whence can be gained the nearest and most complete view of Fuji and of the plain at its base.

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The path is not steep, excepting some 8 chō in the middle up a hill called the Usui-tōge, and 11 chō at the end, which are almost like scaling a wall. It is possible, however, except for unusually heavy persons, to be carried the whole way in a chair. The path leads through Kiga and Miyagino, crosses the Hayakawa, and continues up the r. side of the valley to the vill. of Sengoku-hara, noted for the cattle-farm, extensive for Japan, whence the Miyanoshita hotels are supplied with milk and butter. [From Sengoku-hara, it is possible to ascend Kintoki-zan. The distance to the summit is estimated at 25 chō, and the climb is steep in some places.

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The people of the surrounding country-side ascend Kintoki-zan annually on the 17th day of the 3rd moon (old calendar), on which day the festival of I-no-hana (‘the boar’s nose’) is held on the summit. The name of the mountain is derived from that of Kintoki, a mighty hunter of legendary fame.] The climb up the Otome-tōge commences shortly after leaving Sengoku-hara. The labour it entails is amply repaid by the glorious view from the summit. Persons with sufficient time and energy will do well to climb up the hill to the r.—we should rather say, up the hills, for three or four rise behind each other, and what looks like the affair of a few moments really takes the best part of half-an-hour to accomplish.

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From the top, straight ahead, are visible the snow-clad peaks of the granite mountains of Hida and Etchū.—To travel out to Miyanoshita viâ the Otome-tōge is a pleasant alternative route for those who intend visiting this district a second time. Instead of alighting at Kōzu, one continues in the train as far as the station of Gotemba, situated in the plain at Fuji’s base. From Gotemba it is 2 ri to the top of the pass. The first portion of the way may be done by jinrikisha. Gotemba is also the

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nearest station for travellers coming up the Tōkaidō Railway from Kōbe, bound for Miyanoshita. But if they have much luggage or object to walking, they should go on to Kōzu, whence the facilities for proceeding to Miyanoshita are greater. 12. To the Buddhist temple of Saijōji, sometimes called Dōryō-san, distant 3 ri. Though placed last, this expedition is perhaps the most delightful of all; for it alone includes architectural beauties as well as beauties of nature. The path, after passing through Kiga and Miyagino and crossing the Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy plateau near the summit of Myōjin-ga-take (not to be confounded with the Myōjō-ga-take of Walk No. 8).

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Tell the guide to lead to the spot, not far out of the way, whence may best be seen the superb view:—on the one hand, the sea with the plain of Sagami watered by the rivers Banyū and Sakawa, the mountain ranges of Ōyama, Kurakake, Tanzawa, Sōbutsu, Yagura-ga-take, and many of the mountains of Kōshū; on the other, the wooded heights beyond the Hakone pass which dwarf the nearer ridge of Takanosu; then turning towards the r., double-crested Futago-yama, Koma-ga-take, Kammuri-ga-take, and the long ridge to the W. of Hakone which terminates in Kintoki-zan; and above and beyond all, the gigantic cone of Fuji.

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From this point it is a descent, Saijōji being even lower down on the far side of the mountain than Miyanoshita is on the near. Before reaching it, the open moorland of the hillside is exchanged for a magnificent forest of pines and cryptomerias, with an undergrowth of beautiful flowering shrubs—deutzia, azalea, pyrus japonica, aucuba, etc., according to the season. The monastery of Saijōji, which belongs to the Sōtō sect of Buddhists, was founded by a hermit named Ryōan, who died A.D. 1401; but it owes its special reputation for sanctity to his successor Dōryō, who was supposed to be one of the numerous incarnations of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy.

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To Dōryō’s memory is dedicated the finest of all the shrines which collectively constitute Saijōji. It is called Myōkwaku-dō, and stands at the top of a flight of steps to the l. The links of the chain which divides the staircase into two parts are often bound with scraps of paper, on which pilgrims have written their prayers. The fan of feathers, which forms so striking a feature of the ornamentation, was Dōryō’s crest. The winged figures with large noses represent goblins (tengu), who dwell in the mountains.

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Most of the large upright stones of irregular shape inscribed with characters in red or gold, which are scattered about the grounds, are memorials of persons who have at various times contributed towards the repairs of the temple. So is the hideous blue railing, by which more modern piety has endeavoured to mar the perfect taste and beauty of the scene. It is generally most convenient to lunch at Saijōji al fresco in one of the more retired portions of the temple grounds.

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Instead of returning to Miyanoshita the way one came, it is far better to arrange at the hotel, before starting, to have jinrikishas in waiting at the end of the stately avenue of cryptomerias leading from the temple down for 28 chō to the vill. of Sekimoto. After the fatigues of the walk, one can then bowl along pleasantly through the picturesque valley of the Sakawa-gawa, skirting Odawara, and thence proceeding up the new road to Tōnosawa and Miyanoshita, either in the same jinrikisha or on foot. The total distance of the trip, as thus modified, is 10 ri 25 chō (26 miles); but the 3 ri in jinrikisha from Sekimoto to Odawara, and

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the possibility of doing all the remainder of the way up to Miyanoshita by jinrikisha, prevent it from being too fatiguing.—It is also possible to take Saijōji on the way back from Miyanoshita to Yokohama, by joining the Tōkaidō Railway at Matsuda, the nearest station to the temple. The distance is estimated at between 2 and 3 ri. The way is passable for jinrikishas.

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3.—HAKONE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Hakone is most quickly reached from Yokohama and Tōkyō by the Tōkaidō Railway as far as Kōzu, thence by carriage or jinrikisha to Sammai-bashi, a hamlet close to Yumoto (the tram to Yumoto may therefore be taken, instead of a carriage or jinrikisha, if preferred), and from Sammai-bashi on foot or in kago along the old Tōkaidō up the Hakone pass viâ Hata, the whole journey taking about 6 hrs. from Yokohama, or 7 hrs. from Tōkyō. But many residents prefer to travel viâ Miyanoshita where they spend the night, and then push on next morning by Walk No. 9 (see p. 101).

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The respective merits of Hakone and Miyanoshita as summer resorts form a constant subject of debate between the partisans of the two places. Miyanoshita has the advantage of hot springs, a drier air, easier access, and hotels in European style. Hakone is cooler, being 1,000 ft. higher, it affords more privacy, and has a charming lake where one may bathe and boat and go on water picnics. In winter the advantage is altogether on Miyanoshita’s side. No one thinks of staying at Hakone during that season, whereas Miyanoshita is equally pleasant all the year round. Indeed, many prefer the winter there to the summer, as the air is almost always clear in winter, and walking consequently more enjoyable.

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The chief inns at Hakone are the Hafu-ya, Yamaki-ya, and Ishi-uchi, all on the lake. But as nearly every house in the village is to let during the summer season, the plan usually followed by families from Yokohama is to hire a separate residence by the month, bring their own servants with them, and set up housekeeping. Foreign furniture of a rough kind is generally obtainable, as also are fowls, vegetables, bread, and even milk and butcher’s meat during the summer season. Some of the most enjoyable expeditions from Hakone are the same as those already described from Miyanoshita,—for instance, those to Ōjigoku, to Ashinoyu and up Futago-yama, etc. The following may also be recommended:— 1. The Temple of Gongen.

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The way leads out of the N. end of the village, under an avenue of fine cryptomerias which here lines the Tōkaidō. A flight of steps will be seen r., leading to a small shed whence there is a charming view. The village formerly extended to this place. Here also stood the old barrier (Hakone no seki) and guard-house, where all travellers were challenged and required to show their passports. The barrier was removed in 1871, but part of the stone-work still remains. Following along the avenue, we soon come l. to the Emperor’s summer palace (Rikyū), not accessible to the public. The next point in the road is the Tsuji-ya inn, from which the best view of Fuji to be had anywhere on the shores of the lake is obtained.

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A little further on, we pass under a stone torii and enter Moto Hakone, a pleasant-looking little place, much frequented by students from Tōkyō, but indifferent to foreign patronage. We then turn slightly to the l., passing under a red torii, by the side of which stands a wooden

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shed containing two iron rice-boilers said to have been used by Yoritomo on his hunting expeditions. The road here skirts the lake, soon bringing us to a charming vista as we ascend to the foot of the steps leading to the temple. On the l., half-way up the steps, is a small shrine dedicated to the Soga Brothers. The main temple, which also is small, contains votive pictures representing these Brothers, the Gods of Luck, Yoritomo’s horse, etc. The walk back may be varied by taking a wide turning to the l. about the middle of Moto Hakone, going up the stone steps nearly as far as the torii, and then taking a turn to the l. which is the Shindō, or New Road, to Ashinoyu.

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After following this for about ¼ m., we strike a path to the r., which is the old road and leads to the Tōkaidō; and so back to Hakone. The pass above the torii commands the view so often seen in photographs. 2. Walk to the End of the Lake.—At the entrance to the avenue leading to the temple of Gongen, a path will be seen l. lower down, by following which a walk of 5 m. can be taken to the baths of Shin-yu at Umijiri, the N. shore of the lake. The return may be agreeably varied by taking a boat the whole way back to Hakone, 1 hr. If this trip be reversed, the shadow of the large trees overhanging the lake r., shortly before reaching Umijiri, affords a nice spot for a water picnic. 3.

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Along the Sukumo-gawa.—This is a somewhat rough but pleasant walk, difficult to find without a guide. The stream is perpetually crossed and re-crossed, and sometimes wading is unavoidable. The path finally leads out at the vill. of Hata, where kagos can be obtained for the return journey viâ the Hakone Pass. At the beginning of the valley, a path to the r. leads to Yoshihama on the coast. It affords pretty peeps of Fuji and the lake; but the high grass intercepts the view from the top. 4.

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Walks in the direction of Atami.—Several pleasant walks can be taken in the direction of the Ten Province Pass and Atami, notably one up the slope of Okoma-yama and over Kazakoshi-yama, following the boundary line of the provinces of Sagami and Izu to the highest point of the Tōkaidō, where, on a little plateau, the boundary post between these two provinces is placed; and back to Hakone by the Tōkaidō.

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While crossing the plateau, there is a fine view of the lake, the mountains surrounding it, and Fuji beyond,—with to the S. the Bay of Suruga, the promontory of Izu, the towns dotting the Tōkaidō, Ashitaka-yama, and far away in the distance the Fujikawa like a silver streak, and still farther the long point of Omae-zaki stretching out into the ocean. Distance about 3½ m. Another walk in the same general direction is past the pond called Numa-ga-ike, then over a little ridge separating it from another pond or swamp on the Suruga side, called Otama-ga-ike, and on up the mountain slope to a gap, where a turn to the l. should be taken up through the grass to the survey post. The summit affords an extensive view.

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But of all walks in this direction, the most delightful is that to the Ten Province Pass (Jikkoku-tōge or Higane-tōge). Those intending to picnic there should, however, remember to take water with them, as none is to be obtained on the way. The climb is for the most part not steep, and the panorama from the summit, especially on a fine day in early winter, is something never to be forgotten. The top of the ridge, which is marked by a stone known as the Ten Pro-

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vince Stone, looks down on the provinces of Izu, Suruga, Tōtōmi, Kōshū, Kōtsuke, Musashi, Shimōsa, Kazusa, Bōshū, and Sagami. Bays, peninsulas, islands, mountain-ranges, lie spread out in entrancing variety of form and colour, Fuji towering up magnificently above all the rest. The distance from Hakone is locally estimated at 5 ri, but must be less, as it can easily be done in 2½ hrs. [A steep descent of a little over 3 m. leads from the top down to Atami. There is also a path from the top to the hamlet of Izu-san, distant 1 ri.] 5. Hirahama on the lake.—A short walk may be taken from the Mishima end of the village to the foot of the Hakone Pass, where there is a path leading to the shore of the lake.

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After skirting the latter, it leads over a small hill to the next bay called Hirahama. Should the water be too high, Hirahama may be reached by the track over Hatahiki-yama. 6. Umidaira.—This is the plateau rising above the S.W. shore of the lake, from which an extensive and beautiful view, embracing many of the points seen from the Ten Province Pass, is obtained. Time about 2 hrs. A track leads down through the grass to a little bay on the lake near the Hiraishi, or Flat Stone, whence Hakone can be easily reached by boat which should be ordered in advance. 7.

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The Subterranean Water-Course and the Fukara Pass.—The Fukara Pass is the most westerly of three that lead from the end of Lake Hakone to Fuji, the other two being the Nagao Pass and the Otome Pass, the latter already described on p. 103. The first stage on the way to all three from Hakone is by boat nearly to the end of the lake. Close to the spot on the shore where the ascent of the Fukara Pass begins, is a tunnel (suimon), through which a portion of the waters of the lake is carried to several villages on the other side of the mountain, serving to irrigate their rice-fields, and then flowing on to form the waterfalls of Sano.

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This subterranean channel is said to be entirely artificial, the local account being that it was pierced by two brothers, who bored through the mountain from opposite sides until they met in the middle. The walk up the pass takes 20 min. The exit of the tunnel (umi no ana) may be easily reached from the top of the pass, the whole expedition from the boat and back again taking about 2 hrs. There is some climbing and scrambling to be done, but the paths are fairly good on the whole. 8. The Nagao Pass.—This lies 1 ri 7 chō from Umijiri.

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The way leads first across the Hayakawa, the natural outlet of the lake, which later on flows past Miyanoshita; then along a broad level cinder path to the foot of the pass, and finally by an easy climb of 12½ chō to the top. The gap at the summit of the pass commands a complete view of Fuji from base to peak. On looking back, the eye sweeps across the plain of Sengoku-hara and over the waters of Hakone Lake. Kammuri-ga-take is also seen to advantage, and on its slope can be distinctly traced the solfataras of Ōjigoku. A more extensive and beautiful view is had, however, by ascending the hill to the l. of the pass.

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From this summit, not only Fuji, but the promontory of Izu, with Amagi-san, the whole of the fertile plain stretching away to the r. of the town of Mishima, the rugged peaks of Ashitaka, the course of the Fujikawa, the promontory of Mio-no-Matsubara, Kuno-zan, and the full sweep of Suruga Bay lie at the spectator’s feet.

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