甲府への道と甲府からの道

ROUTE 10. WAYS TO AND FROM KŌFU. 1. KŌFU AND NEIGHBOURHOOD, MITAKE, KIMPU-ZAN. 2. TŌKYŌ TO KŌFU BY THE KŌSHŪ KAIDŌ [SARUHASHI TO FUJI]. 3. VALLEY OF THE TAMAGAWA. 4. FROM THE TŌKAIDŌ TO KŌFU VIA THE TEMPLES OF MINOBU. 5. VALLEY OF THE HAYAKAWA, ASCENT OF SHIRANE-SAN. 6. RAPIDS OF THE FUJIKAWA. 7. KŌFU TO SHIMO-NO-SUWA ON THE NAKASENDŌ, ASCENT OF KOMA-GA-TAKE IN KŌSHŪ. 8. KŌFU TO FUJI OVER THE MISAKA-TŌGE. 9. KARUIZAWA TO KŌFU OVER THE TSUYUTARE PASS, ASCENT OF AKA-DAKE.

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Kōfu is a pleasant resting-place after arduous travel, its central situation in the beautiful province of Kōshū and its proximity to places of such peculiar interest as Mitake, Fuji, Minobu, the Rapids of the Fujikawa, etc., causing it to be included in so many different tours as to render a description of the several ways to and from it advisable.

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1.—KŌFU AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Kōfu (Inns, *Yonekura in Yanagi-machi; Sado-ya; European food can be obtained in the Chōyō-tei restaurant in the public garden, where also foreign guests are accommodated for the night), the capital of the prefecture of Yamanashi, is noted for the progressive spirit of its people. For its size, it has more buildings in European style than any other provincial town in Japan. Conspicuous amongst these are the Prefecture, the Normal School, the Banks, the Court-houses, the Town Hall, the Industrial School, the silk-filatures, and the bookselling and printing establishment of Mr. Naitō Den-emon, who is also the proprietor of the Kōfu Daily News.

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The castle grounds were many years ago turned into an experimental garden, where excellent fruit and vegetables are grown. From the platform where the keep formerly stood, there is a fine view of the town and surrounding country. A great festival, called Mi-yuki no Matsuri, is held in Kōfu on the 1st April. The town is noted for kaiki, a thin silken fabric used for the linings of dresses and for bed-quilts; also for a sweetmeat called tsuki-no-shizuku, that is “moon-drops,” consisting of grapes coated with sugar. The province of Kōshū produces the best grapes in Japan, and attempts have been made, of late years, to produce wine and brandy from them.

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The grapes are in their prime about the end of September or beginning of October. Crystals are found in the neighbourhood. A certain inconvenience is felt in the vicinity of Kōfu by the difficulty of procuring jinrikishas, the native carriage (basha) having almost driven them from the plain. The chief historical interest of Kōfu centres in its mediæval hero, Takeda Shingen, who was one of the fiercest feudal chieftains of the lawless times that preceded the establishment of the Tokugawa dynasty of Shōguns.

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Born in 1521 as the eldest son of his father, lord of Kōshū, it was his fate to be unjustly passed over by that father in favour of his second brother; and he was obliged to feign stupidity as a boy, in order to preserve his life in safety. When, however, both youths reached man's estate, Takeda Shingen's superiority in skill and courage gained all the warriors of the clan over to his side, and he succeeded his father without demur. His whole time was spent in waging war against the barons of the neighbouring provinces of central and eastern Japan, especially against Uesugi Kenshin, lord of Shinshū.

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In middle life he became converted to the doctrines of the Tendai sect of Buddhists, built a temple to the god Bishamon, did public penance, abjured the eating of fish and all intercourse with women, and went so far as to have himself decorated with the title of archbishop,—for what ecclesiastical authorities were going to refuse anything to a zealot who disposed of so many soldiers? He did not, however, renounce his grand passion, war, but kept on fighting till the end, his latter years being much disturbed by the consciousness of the growing power of Ieyasu, and being divided between quarrels and reconciliations with that great captain.

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When mortally wounded in 1573, he left orders with his successor to hold no funeral service in his honour, but to keep his death a profound secret for three years, and then to sink his body privately in Lake Suwa, enclosed in a stone coffin. This was in order to prevent his numerous foes from taking heart at the news of his decease. His last will and testament was only partially obeyed; for though his death was kept secret as long as possible, the body was not sunk in the lake, but buried at the temple of Erinji at Matsuzato, a few miles from Kōfu. The place still exists, the temple garden being a tasteful specimen of rockwork on a large scale.

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Brave but superstitious, Takeda Shingen was also an adept at governing men. His people liked and respected him, as was shown by the fact that none ever rebelled against him, even in that turbulent age when every man's hand was against every man. From Kōfu a very pretty excursion may be made to the temples of Mitake, distant about 5 ri. Jinrikishas can be taken as far as a place called Kizawa, some 2 ri from Kōfu, whence onwards it is necessary to walk. The whole distance can be accomplished in 3½ hrs. The road winds up a fine rocky valley, crossing and recrossing the Kamezawa-gawa several times. Beyond the hamlet of

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Kiyokawa, the river cuts its way through the rocks so as to form a charming double cascade called Sō-gawa-fuchi. A short way on, the traveller leaves this, the prettiest part of the road, and ascending to the r., comes in sight of the rocky valley in which lie the temples and village of Mitake. Excepting the beautiful site, a grove of magnificent trees, and the fine stone-work facing the slopes of the terraces, but little remains of the former grandeur of the place, which has fallen into the destructive hands of modern Shintō reformers.

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The village of Mitake (Inn, Tama-ya), 2,800 ft. above the sea, lies just below the temple grounds, on the banks of a stream in the midst of extremely picturesque scenery, the most conspicuous rocky peaks being Gaki-san—the peculiar sugar-loaf cone—and Tengu-iwa on the opposite side of the valley. Specimens of rock-crystal are sold in the village. They are procured chiefly from mines in the neighbourhood of Kurobera on the way to Kimpu-zan. Kimpu-zan, a granite mountain 8,300 ft. high, can be easily ascended in 1 day from Mitake by making an early start. The way lies through the vill. of Kurobera.

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At a Shintō shrine, 2¼ hrs. beyond Kurobera, there is a good-sized hut for the accommodation of pilgrims; and here the real ascent begins, the distance hence to the summit being about 2,000 ft. The way lies over a heap of large granite boulders. At two places, ladders are fixed to assist the climber over difficult gaps, and at two others chains give additional security; but even without the help of these, there would be no danger. The top is crowned by a huge inaccessible mass of granite, rising to a height of some 50 ft., and forming a landmark by which the mountain can be recognised at a great distance.

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The view includes Asama-yama on the N., Yatsu-ga-take almost due W., Fuji to the S., and the lofty mountain range on the western boundary of the province of Kōshū.

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2.—FROM TŌKYŌ TO KŌFU BY THE KŌSHŪ KAIDŌ. The first stage of this journey is by train from either Shimbashi or Shinjiku station, 1½ hr. from the latter. (See p. 94.) The itinerary of the rest of the route is as follows:— Hachiōji to Komagino, 1 ri 27 chō, 4¼ m.; Yoshino, 3 ri 27 chō, 9¼ m.; Uenohara, 1 ri 27 chō, 4¼ m.; Notajiri, 1 ri 19 chō, 3¾ m.; Saruhashi, 3 ri 6 chō, 7¾ m.; Ōzuki, 1 ri 2 chō, 2½ m.; Kuronota, 2 ri 29 chō, 6¾ m.; Katsunuma, 3 ri 15 chō, 8¼ m.; Kōfu, 4 ri 2 chō, 10 m. Total, 23 ri 10 chō, 56¾ m. The whole ground may be covered in 2 days, by taking jinrikishas from Hachiōji to Kōfu, and sleeping the first night at Saruhashi. Carriages of the usual springless kind run the whole way.

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The scenery is pretty all along the route after passing Komagino, but the road is often heavy away from the vicinity of the larger villages. Those wishing to break the journey before reaching Saruhashi will find good accommodation at Yoshino. From Hachiōji (Inn, Kado-ya), the road lies along the flat to Komagino, after passing which vill. a gradual rise leads up the Kobotoke-tōge. The new highway, avoiding as it does the summit of the pass (1,850 ft.), misses the extensive view over the plain of Tōkyō and the sea, for which this portion of the journey was formerly noted; but on the way down on the other side, there

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is a fine prospect of the Kōshū mountains. Soon the traveller comes in sight of the fertile valley of the Banyū-gawa, also called Katsura-gawa, which flows at the bottom of a deep ravine and becomes the constant companion of the journey as far as Ōzuki. Some poor hamlets are passed before reaching Yoshino (Inn by Ōfusa Seijūrō). In the neighbourhood of Uenohara (Inn, Uehara), a great deal of refuse silk is spun and woven into the fabric called tsumugi, to be taken to market at Hachiōji. The road crosses the river called Tsurukawa, an affluent of the Banyū, and then again ascends and descends before arriving at Notajiri. Delightful glimpses of Fuji are obtained on the way.

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The scenery becomes strikingly pretty before reaching Saruhashi (Inns, Daikoku-ya, Kubota), that is, the “Monkey's Bridge,” also called Enkyō, the latter name being indeed but the Chinese pronunciation of the same ideographs which in pure Japanese read Saruhashi. Perpendicular cliffs frown down upon the dark emerald stream, which is narrow and deep at this point. The place derives its name from a curious bridge which anciently spanned the torrent. A similar bridge existed till recently at the same spot, but has now been replaced by one of a more ordinary construction. The present bridge is more or less of the cantilever sort, having the ends of the horizontal beams planted deep in the soil that covers the rock.

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Saruhashi, though but an unpretending place, has a certain importance as a market-town for the surrounding villages, and possesses a telegraph station. Specimens of the tsumugi above-mentioned may be purchased here at cheap rates. The scenery continues to be lovely after passing Saruhashi. There is a celebrated view at a point where the Katsura-gawa is joined by its affluent the Wata-gawa between Saruhashi and Komahashi. Ōzuki is badly situated, as a hill rising behind it shuts out the sunlight and the view of Fuji; moreover the accommodation is wretched.

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[A road to Yoshida, from which place Fuji may be ascended, branches off here to the l., following up the valley of the Katsura-gawa, and passing through the cleanly and thriving town of Yamura (Inn, Susuki-tei). At Tōka-ichiba there is a fine cascade, which is seen to best advantage from the verandah of the little tea-house close by. The distance from Ōzuki to Kami-Yoshida (Inn, Kogiku) is just under 6 ri. The whole road is, in a manner, dominated by Fuji, beginning near Ōzuki where the great volcano appears en vignette, and then grows and grows till it fills up the entire foreground.

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It is also curious to observe the gradual conversion of the lava into arable soil, partly by weathering, and partly by the labour of the peasantry.] At Ōzuki the road abandons the Katsura-gawa, and proceeds up the valley of the Hanasaki-gawa, a stream whose romantic wooded and rocky bed forms a pleasing feature of the journey as far as Kuronota. After passing Kuronota (Inn, Miyoshi-ya), one ascends the Sasago-tōge, 3,500 ft. above the sea, or 1,300 ft. above Kuronota. Katsunuma is one of the centres of the grape-growing industry. The plain of Kōshū now lies

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before the traveller, surrounded on every side by a wall of high mountains. The chief summits to the W. are Koma-ga-take, Hō-ō-zan, Jizō-dake, Kwannon, and Yakushi, backed by the long chain collectively known under the name of Shirane-san. Fuji also is visible now and then over the tops of the range bounding the plain on the S. From the vill. of Todoroki to Shimo Kuribara, the road is lined with peach-trees, double cherry-trees, and Kaidō (Pyrus spectabilis), which are in full bloom about the middle of April. The road to Kōfu is uninteresting.

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3.—TŌKYŌ TO KŌFU BY THE VALLEY OF THE TAMAGAWA (ŌME KAIDŌ). Itinerary. Tōkyō (Shinjiku Station) to Tachikawa by train, 1 hr., thence by road to: Hamura, 3 ri 18 chō, 8½ m.; Ōme, 1 ri 18 chō, 3¾ m.; Sawai, 2 ri 18 chō, 6¼ m.; Kotaba, 1 ri 18 chō, 3¾ m.; Hikawa, 2 ri, 5 m.; Kōchi-no-yu (Yuba), 3 ri, 7½ m.; Kamozawa, 2 ri, 5 m.; Tabayama, 2 ri 18 chō, 6¾ m.; Ochiai, 3 ri 18 chō, 8½ m.; Yanagizawa-tōge (top), 1 ri, 2½ m.; Kamikane, 1 ri 18 chō, 3¾ m.; Ōfuji, 18 chō, 1¼ m.; Kusakabe, 1 ri 18 chō, 3¾ m.; Hirashina, 1 ri, 2½ m.; Satogaki, 2 ri, 5 m.; Kōfu, 1 ri, 2½ m. Total, 30 ri 18 chō, 76¼ m.

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This extremely pretty route, passing through some of the finest scenery within easy reach of the capital, takes 3½ days, Tōkyō being quitted by the early train on the first morning. Jinrikishas are practicable from Tachikawa to Ōme; but the road across the plain is always rough, and it is better to walk. Jinrikishas can, indeed, be taken on to Sawai, where the first night should be spent; the rest of the journey till within 3 ri of Kōfu must be performed on foot. Fair accommodation is also to be had at Kōchi-no-yu, Tabayama, and Ōfuji, but the food is everywhere very poor. Leaving Tachikawa and passing through several hamlets we reach in 1 hr. the squalid-looking town of Haijima.

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At Hamura (Inn, Tamaru-ya) we enjoy a charming glimpse of the Tamagawa, and can inspect the massive stone-work of the dam which is formed here to carry off the water to supply Tōkyō. The road hence to Ōme follows the l. bank of the river, a heavy portion of the route in bad weather. At Ōme, the Ōme Kaidō, or main road to Tōkyō, is first reached. It is now little used for through traffic. Ōme (Inn by Sakanoe Rinzō) consists of a single long street, lined with old gnarled fruit-trees, maples, crape-myrtles, and cryptomerias. On the r., soon after entering the town, at the top of a flight of steps, stands a Shintō temple decorated with good carvings, chiefly of birds and fabulous animals.

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On leaving Ōme the road at once enters the valley of the Tamagawa, ascending along its l. bank. The valley is rather wide here and well-cultivated. Shortly after passing l. the path which leads over the mannen-bashi to the sacred mountain of Mitake, the traveller may spend a few moments in watching the rafts shoot past the rocks in

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the river. Passing through the peach orchards of Mitamura, the bridge at the entrance of Sawai is crossed, and here a path branches off r., leading by way of Hannō to Chichibu and the province of Shinshū. At Sawai (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya), the beautiful part of the route commences. Just before reaching Kotaba, the valley begins to contract and wind, while the hills on either side increase in height, and in front is seen the triple summit of Mitake. [Mitake, 2,900 ft. above the sea, is an agreeable excursion from Ōme or Sawai.

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It may be reached from Ōme either, 1st, by crossing the river at that place and so at once gaining the road (practicable for jinrikishas to Hossawa near the foot of the mountain) along the r. bank of the river, known as the Ōme Hikage Kaidō, or Shady Road from Ōme, owing to its lying on the shadier side of the valley; 2nd, by crossing to the r. bank by the mannen-bashi bridge close to the tea-house at Hinata Wada, about 1 ri from Ōme by the usual road, which brings the traveller into the Shady Road at Takahashi, the second hamlet before Hossawa; or, 3rd, from the fork of the road mentioned in the last paragraph.

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The distance from Ōme to Hossawa may be calculated at 2 hrs. on foot, and the ascent of the mountain at 1½ hr. more. There are no inns at the summit, but rooms can be hired at some of the houses inhabited by the priests. The temple stands at the very summit. On a hill further to the N., but easily reached from Mitake, and known as the Oku-no-In, is a chapel dedicated to Yamato-take. The population of the upper and lower villages on this mountain consists of families of hereditary Shintō priests, who intermarry almost exclusively among each other. Mitake may also be ascended from Itsukaichi on the Akigawa, 3 ri 30 chō from Hachiōji, and 2 ri 21 chō from Ōme.

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Instead of descending again to Hossawa, and crossing the river to Sawai, the pedestrian may save a couple of hours by descending to Unasawa, a hamlet lying on the l. bank of the Tamagawa 30 chō above Kotaba.] Kotaba (Inn, Naga-ya, very poor) is an important centre of the timber trade. The rafts of planks are here put together. Further up, single logs are thrown into the water and left to float down with the current. The scenery continues to be charming; the path constantly ascends and descends, sometimes rising to a great elevation above the stream. Corn, millet, and potatoes constitute the chief crops grown in the valley. Indigo and tobacco are also raised in small quantities.

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Descending through the remains of a cryptomeria grove, we cross the Nippara-gawa, an affluent of the Tamagawa, and after a short climb reach Hikawa (Inn, Miyamoto-ya), a fine but straggling village. At the entrance we pass a few of the bevelled water-wheels characteristic of the neighbouring mountains. The floats are small and placed wide apart, and the axle is inclined at an angle in order to admit of the wheel dipping into the stream. The next stage beyond Hikawa is extremely picturesque and but sparsely populated. Below the path, which winds up and down the flank of the mountain, the

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stream dashes along a rocky channel, sometimes forming deep, clean pools; while above, on either hand, rise steep lofty hills, mostly covered with timber, but wherever the exposure is favourable, cultivated up to the highest possible point. Especially noticeable is the part where the road makes a deep bend to the r. just before coming to the baths of Kōchi-no-yu (Inn, *Tsuru-ya, which has pleasant rooms overhanging the river; the inn by Harashima Koichirō has a private bath), 1,350 ft. above the sea. There are several springs, all tepid and more or less sulphurous, their temperature being about 79° Fahr. The narrowness of the valley at this point adds much to the beauty of the place.

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Half a mile further we cross a tributary stream called the Ogawa, to the village of Kōchi, and winding round to the r., pass in succession through Mugiyama and Kawano to the hamlet of Kamozawa at the boundary between the provinces of Musashi and Kōshū. Kamozawa (no inns) is strikingly situated on the hill-side just above the road. From a point a short distance beyond, the scenery is very fine, and the road, considering the difficulties that had to be overcome, and the impossibility of preventing damage from landslips, does great credit to the engineers of this recently opened route.

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It winds up the side of a magnificent wooded gorge for 4 or 5 m., while the river flows away down at the bottom under the shade of deciduous trees. Half-way, perched on the r. bank of the stream far beneath the road, lies the quaint-looking hamlet of Hōnose. At last, turning a corner, we come in view of the spacious upland valley in which, surrounded by cornfields, lie Tabayama (Inn, Mori-ya; height 2,000 ft. above the sea) and one or two other hamlets. Beyond this the scenery becomes even more imposing. The bridges are broad and were solidly constructed, but have not been well maintained, and unfortunately the amount of traffic that takes place is not sufficient to justify any outlay on their improvement.

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The most striking bits are a short way above Tabayama, where grey fir-clad cliffs tower up to a height of over 2,000 ft. from the water's edge; but the grandest prospect of all is about 1½ m. below Ochiai, where the road winds round the face of a lofty precipice which commands a view up a densely-wooded ravine. From this point to Ochiai, which is a mere cluster of huts without inns, and for 1 ri further to the top of the Yanagizawa-tōge (4,600 ft.), is a walk of about 2 hrs. over the only bad portion of the mountain route, the soft mud being thick and heavy even in the finest weather. The top of the pass affords a fine view of Fuji, seen over the intervening range of mountains.

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Descending on the Kōfu side, the road follows the bank of the Omo-gawa, which it crosses and recrosses, to the vill. of Kamikane, where magnificent mountains come in sight. The chief peaks from r. to l. are Koma-ga-take, Hō-ō-zan, and Jizō-dake, with the triple peaks of Shirane-san behind, all rising beyond a nearer and lesser chain. The small wooded hill in front is Enzan, noted for a cold sulphur spring. From Ōfuji (Inn, Fuji-ya) the main road descends straight into the plain of Kōfu, crossing the Omo-gawa and passing through Kusakabe with its avenue of pines

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and flowering trees. It crosses the Fuefuki-gawa a short distance further on at Sashide, where coaches may be engaged to Kōfu.

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4.—SUZUKAWA ON THE TŌKAIDŌ RAILWAY TO KŌFU VIA THE TEMPLES OF MINOBU. Itinerary. Suzukawa to Ōmiya (tram), 3 ri, 7¼ m.; Utsubusa, 2 ri, 5 m.; Manzawa, 1 ri 26 chō, 4¼ m.; Nambu, 3 ri, 7¼ m.; Minobu, 3 ri 8 chō, 7¾ m.; Hakii, 30 chō, 2 m.; Yōka-ichiba, 1 ri 33 chō, 4¾ m.; Kiri-ishi, 20 chō, 1¼ m.; Kajikazawa, 1 ri 29 chō, 4½ m.; Kōfu, 4 ri 18 chō, 11 m. Total, 22 ri 20 chō, 55 m. Time, 2½ to 3 days. It is possible to take jinrikishas the whole way; but at least two men are needed, and there are numerous hills to walk up. Very poor accommodation except at Ōmiya, Minobu, and Kajikazawa.

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Between Ōmiya (Inn, Wata-ya) and Utsubusa, we reach the celebrated Tsuri-bashi, or “Hanging Bridge,” over the Fujikawa, at a picturesque spot where the river divides into two branches. This bridge, which is suspended to precipitous rocks on either side by stout ropes of bamboos split and twisted together, consists of small bundles of split bamboos some 6 or 7 ft. long, lashed close together and supporting a single row of planks laid along the middle as a pathway.

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The bridge, which is divided into two unequal spans by timber supports resting on a lower rock close to the right bank, is altogether about 100 ft. long; its height in the centre is about 26 ft., and at the ends about 35 ft., and the frail structure shakes and sways considerably, though there is no real danger. Attempts are now (1891) being made to block up the left channel which flows under the bridge, and to keep the river altogether on the r. side of the island. Even if these efforts are successful and the bridge falls into disuse, similar structures may still be seen in the valley of the Hayakawa and elsewhere.

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From Utsubusa onwards, the road leads up the pleasant valley of the Fujikawa with occasional views of Fuji, Yatsu-ga-take, and other high mountains. Minobu (Inns, Tanaka-ya, Masu-ya) consists of a single hilly street lined with shops for the sale of rosaries. It was also at one time noted for the manufacture of hempen rain-coats (mino), a fact to which the origin of the name has been ascribed. The village is charmingly situated in a valley surrounded by well-wooded mountains, among the most prominent being Oku-no-In, which rises immediately behind the temples, and Shichimen-zan at the head of the valley.

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The vill. owes its existence to the great Monastery founded in the 13th century by the celebrated Buddhist saint Nichiren, a portion of whose body is here preserved. This monastery is the head-quarters of the Nichiren sect, and the new temples now in process of erection to replace the former buildings destroyed by fire in 1875 are fine specimens of Buddhistic architecture. On entering the grounds of the Monastery, the traveller crosses a courtyard, whence either of two flights of steps—the Otoko-zaka and the Onna-zaka—may be ascended to the actual temples.

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On reaching the top of the steps, and passing r. the belfry, the traveller will find himself in front of the Founder's Temple (Kaisan-dō), from which galleries

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lead to the Temple of the True Bones (Go Shinkotsu-dō), to the Temple of the Posthumous Tablet (Ihai-dō), to the Pilgrims' Dormitory (Kyakuden), to the Reception Rooms (Taimen-zashiki), and finally to the residence of the archbishop and the business offices of the sect (Jimusho). The interior dimensions of the main hall of the Founder's Temple are: length 75 ft., depth 120 ft., height 26 ft. from floor to ceiling, while the altar is 24 ft. long by 15 ft. in depth. The porch has carvings of dragons, storks, birds playing over the waves of the sea, and tortoises swimming through it. The ventilating panels over the grated doors contain angels and phœnixes brightly painted.

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The framework of the building and the pillars which support the ceiling are lacquered red and black, producing a noble effect. In the centre of the nave (gejin) hangs a magnificent gilt baldachin, presented by the merchants of Ōsaka. Gilded pillars mark off the space in front of the main altar, which is lacquered red and decorated with gilt carvings of lions and peonies. The two porcelain lanterns about 8 ft. high, in front of the altar, are from the famous potteries of Hizen. The handsomely carved and gilded shrine contains a good life-size effigy of Nichiren, presented by the inhabitants of Tōkyō.

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The coffered ceiling of the chancel (naijin) is plainly gilt, while the part of it immediately over the altar has gilt dragons, touched up with red, on a gilt ground. To the wall behind the altar are affixed modern paintings of Rakan. The colours of the square brackets in the cornices are green, blue, red, and chocolate, often with an outline in white or a lighter shade of the principal colour, and gold arabesques on the flat surfaces. The gem of Minobu, however, is the Temple of the True Bones, where the lover of Oriental decorative art will find in contemporary freshness all those beauties which, in most of the religious edifices of Japan, have already been too much tarnished by the hand of time.

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A small fee is charged for admission. The exterior is unpretentious; but on entering the oratory, the visitor should observe the lifelike paintings of cranes on the ceiling. A plain gallery leads hence to the sanctum sanctorum, where Nichiren's remains are enshrined. It is a small octagonal building, elaborately decorated and all ablaze with colours and gold. Round the walls, on a gold ground, are full-sized representations of the white lotus-flower, the emblem of purity and of the Buddhist faith. The horizontal beams above have coloured diapers and geometrical patterns, the brilliant effect of which is toned down by the black, mixed with gold, of the rafters.

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Black and gold are likewise the colours used in the ceiling, which is secured by beautifully worked metal fastenings. In the ramma are carvings of the Sixteen Disciples (Jū-roku Rakan), and on the doors are paintings of musical instruments. The shrine (hōtō), which was presented by the faithful of the province of Owari, is of gold lacquer and shaped like a two-storied pagoda. In it rests the reliquary or casket of gold and precious stones containing the bones of Nichiren, which is in the form of a tiny octagonal pagoda, standing on a base of jade carved in the conventional lotus-flower form.

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Its framework is of the alloy called shakudō, and one of the pillars bears an inscription in silver damascening, which, among other particulars, gives a date corresponding to A.D. 1580. The other pillars are decorated with silver tracery attached to the surface of the shakudō. The top is hung with strings of coral, pearls, and glass beads. The height of the whole is a

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little over 2 ft. Above hangs a baldachin presented by the inhabitants of Nagasaki. The only European innovation in the place is the introduction of two glass windows, which permit of a much better examination of the building than is generally obtainable in the “dim religious light” of Japanese sacred edifices. The Temple of the Posthumous Tablet is a plain, uninteresting building. Pending the erection of the new buildings, it has been temporarily used to hold the remains of the saint and an image of him carved by his disciple Nichirō. The archbishop's residence is a beautiful specimen of Japanese house-decoration in the old style.

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Note the exquisite modern openwork carvings of cranes and geese, and the fine paintings in the alcove (tokonoma) of the Reception Rooms. For a fee of 25 sen, the priests officiating at the Kaisan-dō will display the image on the altar and perform a short service in its honour. The chief yearly festival takes place on the 12th and 13th October, old calendar (some time in November). The ascent to Oku-no-In winds up Ueno-no-yama, the hill immediately behind the Founder's Temple, and is an easy climb of 50 chō.

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After passing the small temple of Sankō-dō, the road ascends through a forest of cryptomerias, and near the summit commands an extensive view, including Fuji, part of the Gulf of Suruga, and the promontory of Izu. On the top stands a plain little temple dedicated to Nichiren, whose crest of the orange-blossom is prominently marked on various objects within the enclosure. A spare day at Minobu may be devoted to the ascent of Shichimen-zan, whose summit is not quite 5 ri distant. The best place to halt on the way is Akasawa, 3 ri 2 chō from Minobu; but the traveller must take his own food. There is a good road all the way up. The last 50 chō are marked by stone lanterns numbered from 1 to 50. No.

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36 affords the best view, which includes the full sweep of Suruga Bay, with the promontory of Izu stretching far out to sea, a magnificent prospect of Fuji, the fertile plain of Kōfu intersected by the various streams uniting to form the Fujikawa, the valley of the Hayakawa below to the l., beyond which are seen Shirane-san and the Koma-ga-take of Kōshū, while Yatsu-ga-take, Kimpu-zan, and other distant ranges bound the prospect on the N. On the top, which the forest deprives of all view, stands a plain building dedicated to the goddess of the mountain.

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According to the legend, as Nichiren was one day preaching in the open air at Minobu, a beautiful woman suddenly made her appearance, and greatly excited the curiosity of his auditors. On Nichiren ordering her to assume her true form, she explained that she dwelt among the mountains to the west, and that seated on one of the eight points of the compass, she dispensed blessings to the other seven. She then begged for water, which was given to her in a vase, and at once the beautiful woman was transformed into a snake twenty feet long, covered with golden scales, and armed with iron teeth. A terrible blast swept down from the mountains, and she disappeared in a whirlwind towards the point of the compass indicated.

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The words “seven points-of-the-compass” (shichi-men) also mean “seven faces;” and by an equivoque the popular belief has arisen that a serpent with seven heads had appeared to the saint, whom he deified under the name of Shichimen Daimyōjin. Buddhist writers identify her with Srīmahādevā, the dēva of lucky omen, another name for the Hindoo god Siva. Game is plentiful on the hills surrounding Minobu. Deer and bears are frequently seen, and pheasants are abundant. Shooting, however, is strictly prohibited, as contrary to the tenets of the Buddhist faith. Departing from Minobu and passing through Hakii, the place where travellers coming down the Fujikawa en route

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to Minobu leave the boat, we reach Fukui, between which vill. and Itomi the Hayakawa is crossed. [For a description of the extremely picturesque valley of this river, see No. 5 of this route.] The current is so swift at the ferry that the boat has to be fastened to either bank by a rope. The crossing is effected by the help of a pole, and by quickly hauling on one end of the rope as the other is slackened. The scenery at this point is remarkably fine. A mass of rock, inclined at an acute angle on the l. bank of the Fujikawa, just opposite the confluence of the Hayakawa, is worth noticing.

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From Itomi onwards, the road generally follows the bank of the river to Yōka-ichiba (Inn, Wakao-ya) and Kiri-ishi (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya), then descending to the vill. of Nishijima, where the river makes a wide bend to the r. Beyond Kajika-zawa (Inn, Ueda-ya), the road enters the plain of Kōfu, with its amphitheatre of mountains, whose various summits are seen from numerous other points; but the best general view of them is enjoyed while crossing the bed of the Fujikawa, here called the Kamanashi-gawa, beyond Anabara. The imposing mass to the l. is Yatsu-ga-take, rising between Kane-ga-take to the r. and Koma-ga-take to its l.

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The high mountain to the l. of the latter, distinguished by a pile of rocks on its summit, is Hō-ō-zan, to whose l. is seen in succession the great range of Shirane. The high mountain to the r. of Kane-ga-take is Kimpu-zan. Fuji's cone alone is visible above the intervening range. Shichimen-zan is seen on looking back down the valley. The 4½ ri separating Kajika-zawa from Kōfu can be done by carriage in about 3 hrs.

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5.—FROM ITOMI TO KŌFU BY THE VALLEY OF THE HAYAKAWA. ASCENT OF SHIRANE-SAN, HŌ-Ō-ZAN, AND KAIGANE-SAN. Itinerary. Itomi to Koretsubo, 3 ri, 7¼ m.; Kyō-ga-shima, 2 ri 16 chō, 5 m.; Hayakawa, 34 chō, 2¼ m.; Shimo Yujima, 3 ri 18 chō, 8½ m.; Narada, 2 ri, 5 m.; Ashikura, 5 ri, 12½ m.; Arino, 2 ri, 5 m.; Dōdō, 15 chō, 1 m.; Midai, 10 chō, ¾ m.; Kōfu, 2 ri, 5 m. Total, 21 ri 21 chō, 52½ m.

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This trip is a very rough one; for though so close to civilisation, the country through which it leads the traveller lies in the heart of the great mountain mass dividing Kōshū from Shinshū and Suruga, and both the people and the roads are in much the same state as they were in earlier centuries before railways were known or foreigners heard of. The journey can only be accomplished on foot, and one should travel as lightly as possible, for all baggage has to be carried by coolies, who are often difficult to obtain. The traveller will meet with no regular inns; but the officials and headmen of the various hamlets are very civil, and ready to provide the best accommodation their places afford.

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It is possible to combine with this trip the ascent of the Kōshū Shirane-san and other lofty peaks. From Itomi the road ascends the bank of the Hayakawa through wild and picturesque scenery to the hamlet of Koretsubo, beyond which a steep climb of 18 chō leads to Gokamura. A short way beyond this the path descends to a pretty valley near the hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the scenery is particularly striking. To

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the l. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly wooded and seen to much better advantage here than from Minobu. Right opposite is the bold round summit of Amebata-yama, also called Zaru-ga-dake, through the deep ravine to the l. of which flows the Amebata-gawa. Below is seen the Hayakawa winding down the valley on the r., and forming almost a complete circle as it bends round a low wooded promontory, which from this point has the appearance of an island. The path now descends over a rough watercourse to the bed of the river, and ascends its l. bank to Kyō-ga-shima. Eight chō further on it crosses the stream on a tsuri-bashi, or “hanging bridge,” to the hamlet of Hō, in the neighbourhood of which a gold mine is worked.

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For a description of the tsuri-bashi, or “hanging bridge,” of the mountain districts of Eastern and Central Japan, see p. 128. Another primitive kind of bridge, called mannen-bashi, has sometimes to be crossed on this route. It consists of a long piece of timber, which is simply tied at the end to projecting supports, such as are used in the hanging bridge. The span is not so great as that of the tsuri-bashi; but the narrowness of the roadway, and the imperfect manner in which the projecting beams are supported, give the traveller a most uncomfortable feeling of insecurity.

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The Japanese name is a hyperbole signifying “Bridge of a Myriad Years.” Beyond Hō, the path leads over one of the lower spurs of Daikoku-yama, and follows the steep side of the valley high above the stream. After passing the hamlet of Nishino-miya, the traveller recrosses the river to Hayakawa, where he will find comfortable quarters at the house of the Sonchō (Mayor) of Misato, the “three villages” of which this place is one. Gold is said to be found in the neighbourhood, while plantations of the paper-tree (Edgeworthia) and of tobacco line this part of the valley. Higher up, beyond the hamlet of Arakawa, the scenery is charming.

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The river dashes along through a fine rocky glen, and is spanned by one of the mannen-bashi at a highly picturesque spot. After crossing the bridge, the road divides. The route to Narada turns to the r., and ascends a very steep hill for about 1 ri, winds round its upper slope, and descends again to the river through wild and rugged scenery before reaching the hamlet of Shimo Yujima. Beyond this place, the path crosses and recrosses the river on mannen-bashi. About 40 chō on, and a little way up the ravine to the r., is the hot spring of Kami Yujima (poor accommodation). Narada (accommodation at a Buddhist temple), the last inhabited place in the valley, consists of but a few households.

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All the inhabitants bear the same surname, and seldom intermarry with the people of other villages. They are a primitive folk of a peculiar type of countenance, who wear in summer a loose hempen dress, and deer and bear-skins in the winter. Their dialect is peculiar, and abounds in archaic words and obsolete grammatical forms. Owing to their practical isolation from the outer world, their ignorance and want of education are extreme, and they are content to live in dirt and squalor. Rice, sake, and soy are with them luxuries to be indulged in on rare occasions, their ordinary food consisting only of millet and potatoes.

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Narada boasts of “Seven Wonders” (Nana Fushigi), amongst which are enumerated a brackish pool, the waters of which are said to have the property of dyeing black any article of clothing left to steep in them for forty-eight hours, and a reed whose leaves grow only on one side of the stem. [More interesting to the determined pedestrian than these

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village wonders will be the ascent of Shirane-san, which may be taken on the way to Ashikura, instead of proceeding to the latter place by the usual path according to the itinerary. The name Shirane-san is often used to denote the whole mighty range dividing the province of Kōshū from the head-waters of the Ōigawa, a range second only in orographical importance to that of Etchū and Hida, which forms the subject of Route 34. The name is, however, more properly confined to the northern and most elevated portion, consisting of three peaks, viz. Nōdori on the S., Ai-no-take in the centre, and Kaigane on the N.

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There exists a somewhat amusing rivalry between the inhabitants of Narada, from which the first two peaks are ascended, and those of Ashikura, the nearest point to the third, the one vill. maintaining that Ai-no-take is the highest of the three and the true Shirane, while the other claims the same honours for Kaigane. The traveller looking at the range from the summit of Hō-ō-zan, or from any other mountain top commanding a view of the two peaks, will adjudge the Ashikura people to be in the right about the question of altitude.

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There is no regularly marked path from Narada to the top of the range; but guides can there be procured who know the way up, and will carry whatever is necessary in the way of provisions and bedding. The traveller who proposes to ascend all three peaks must be prepared to sleep out three nights, and, taking Nōdori-san first, to cross on the fourth day from the base of Kaigane to Ashikura. Nōdori-san and Ai-no-take involve sleeping out two nights and descending on the third day—likewise to Ashikura. There is a hut at the E. base of Kaigane, but none on the top of the range.

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Ai-no-take cannot be ascended direct from Narada; Nōdori must first be climbed, and the track then followed along the ridge to the former peak. From Narada there is a choice of ways up Shirane, one leading along a ravine above the vill. called Hiro-Kōchi, the other up the Shira-Kōchi a short way below it. To the top of the ridge is a stiff climb of 9 hrs., frequent rests being needed by the guides who carry the burdens. The height is 8,400 ft. above the sea, or 5,900 above Narada, and snow often lies there as late as July. Once on the ridge, the rest of the ascent is easy. In 2 hrs. the first peak is reached, height 8,830 ft.

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The view includes W.S.W., the round top of Ena-san in Mino; N.W. by W., Ontake; and in front of the highest peak of a long ridge, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshū. Norikura bears N.W., and Yari-ga-take N.W. by N. In the far distance N.E. the top of the Nikkō Shirane can just be descried, and the Chichibu mountains are well seen in the same direction. Hō-ō-zan is nearly N.N.E.; then come Jizō-ga-take, and Kwannon and Yakushi close together. Fuji, the basin of the Fujikawa, and the Kōfu plain are distinctly seen.

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Half an hour more brings us to the top of Nōdori, 9,300 ft., which commands much the same view as the previous summit, with the addition of Ai-no-take and Kaigane, the latter of which now comes in sight for the first time. From the summit of Nōdori-san to that of Ai-no-take (9,850 ft.) takes 2 hrs. The top is bare rock; but at a short distance below, every sheltered nook contains a patch of grass, gay with the flowers that inhabit the higher altitudes. Ten min. below the summit on the E. side is a capital camping-place. The view from the highest

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point includes, besides the mountains already seen from Nōdori-san, the following:— Koma-ga-take a little to the E. of N., Kaigane N.N.E., Yatsu-ga-take just on the E. of Kaigane; Kimpu-zan N.E. by E., and Senjō-ga-take, a much lower mountain on the l. of the Norokawa, N.W. The source of this stream is perceived far down on the N.W. flank of Ai-no-take. Towards the S., and beyond Nōdori-san, a long range of mountains is seen stretching down the frontier of Kōshū, and getting gradually lower as it approaches Minobu. Fuji rises between S.E. and E.S.E., while Hō-ō-zan and Jizō-ga-take on the one side, and Ontake, Norikura, and Yari-ga-take stand up perfectly clear on the other.

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The descent from Ai-no-take to Ashikura is fatiguing as far as a stream some 4,200 ft. above the sea level. This stream is the Arakawa, one of the sources of the Hayakawa. If the day is too far spent to allow of Ashikura being reached before nightfall, one may sleep at some woodcutters' huts 1½ hr. before getting to that village.] The ordinary path from Narada to Ashikura winds up and down a succession of forest-slopes, whose thick foliage almost entirely shuts out all view. Now and then, however, glimpses are caught of Shirane-san and of the valleys of the Arakawa and Norokawa. Further on the path divides,—r. to Kōfu via Hirabayashi, l. to Kōfu via Ashikura.

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The latter is not practicable during heavy rains; but the traveller is recommended to take it when it can be traversed, on account of its wild and beautiful scenery. A portion of the way lies down a precipitous rocky ravine known as the Ide-zawa, where the gorge in many places is so narrow that its perpendicular sides seem almost to meet overhead. The path descends by the side of a torrent, crossing and recrossing the stream on trunks of trees, and being occasionally carried over clefts and landslips on bridges of very primitive structure. Ashikura, which stands on the l. bank of the Midai-gawa, consists of four hamlets named Katsuzawa (the highest up the valley), Ōzori, Kozori, and Furu-yashiki lower down.

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Travellers who intend to make the ascent of Hō-ō-zan should stay at Kozori. There is also fair accommodation at Furu-yashiki. From Ashikura into Kōfu is a walk of 5 ri. [The ascent of Hō-ō-zan and that of Kaigane are best made from Ashikura. The walk up Hō-ō-zan, though under 6 ri, will occupy a good pedestrian about 9 hrs., and the descent 5 hrs., including stoppages. Though it is possible, by making an early start, to complete the ascent and descent in one day, it is not usual for pilgrims to do so, and they generally, on the downward journey, halt for the night at the woodcutters' sheds at Ōmuro, 1½ ri below the summit. The accommodation being rough, provisions and bedding should be taken.

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Those who wish to enjoy the morning view from the summit should either make a late start from Kozori and spend the night at Ōmuro, ascending next morning at daybreak, or start early and bivouac at the hollow between the summits of Jizō and Hō-ō-zan. In the latter case it will be necessary to take utensils for carrying up water, as none can be got beyond Ōmuro.

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The ascent commences beyond the hamlet of Kutsuzawa, 12 chō from Kozori. The view from Suna-harai, a rocky peak over which the path leads, includes in front Senjō-ga-take, over whose r. flank is seen the outline of Koma-ga-take in Shinshū; on the l., the ridge slopes down to the valley of the Norokawa, on the opposite side of which rises the sharp summit of Kaigane-san; lower down the valley is the bold massy form of Ai-no-take, while in the further distance are seen the high mountains on the northern boundary of Suruga. To the r. the summits of Yakushi-dake and Kwannon-dake shut out the more distant prospect. The view on looking back includes Fuji, the Kōfu plain, and surrounding mountains.

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Beyond this point are two other peaks—Yakushi-dake not usually ascended by pilgrims, and Kwannon-dake which they do generally visit, and whence there is a fine view of the ravine through which the Norokawa flows. The highest point—Hō-ō-zan properly so called—is still further on, and may be scaled as far as the ledge which supports the two enormous blocks or pillars of granite that form the actual summit. The view closely resembles that from Koma-ga-take described on p. 136. The way up Kaigane-san diverges l. from that up Hō-ō-zan. From Kozori to a small temple where one may halt for the night will occupy one day's climbing, whilst the remainder of the ascent is said to take 6 hrs.

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If it be not intended to visit the other summits of the range after ascending Kaigane-san, the usual plan is to descend to the temple and spend the second night there, returning to Ashikura on the following day. But should the traveller wish to complete the round by ascending Ai-no-take and Nōdori-san, it will be necessary to sleep out one night before descending either to Narada or to this temple. We trust that the rough nature of the entire trip has been made sufficiently manifest, and that none but sturdy climbers will embark on it.]

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6.—FROM KŌFU TO IWABUCHI ON THE TŌKAIDŌ BY THE RAPIDS OF THE FUJIKAWA. Roughly speaking, this is No. 4 reversed, but done partly by boat instead of wholly by road. Time, 1 day; 2 days, if the journey be broken at Minobu; for which alight at Hakii. The walk from the river to the vill. of Minobu occupies 40 min. A carriage must be taken for the first stage (4½ ri) from Kōfu to Kajikazawa, where a boat can be engaged to Iwabuchi (in 1891, the price was $4½ for boat with 4 men, weather being favourable). There is considerable traffic on the Fujikawa, no less than 600 boats being engaged in it.

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When the river is in its ordinary state, the times taken are as follows: Kajikazawa to Hakii, 2½ hrs.; Nambu, 1 hr.; Iwabuchi, 3 hrs.; total, 6½ hrs. As far as the confluence of the Hayakawa the river flows placidly along, now at the base of bare rocky hills, now past villages and rice-fields. Below this point begins a series of races and small rapids, the most remarkable of which is just above the Hanging Bridge where the current whirls along at a dizzy pace. On nearing

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Matsuno some fine groups of hexagonal andesite columns will be noticed on the r. bank. At Iwabuchi (Inn, Tani-ya), the boats are taken along the canal to the landing-place close by the railway station.

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7.—FROM KŌFU TO SHIMO-NO-SUWA ON THE NAKASENDŌ. Itinerary. Kōfu to Nirasaki, 3 ri 5 chō, 7¾ m.; Enno, 2 ri, 5 m.; Dai-ga-hara, 2 ri 9 chō, 5½ m.; Kyōraishi, 1 ri 16 chō, 3½ m.; Tsutaki, 1 ri 6 chō, 2¾ m.; Kanazawa, 3 ri 8 chō, 7¾ m.; Kami-no-suwa, 3 ri 19 chō, 8½ m.; Shimo-no-suwa, 1 ri 4 chō, 2¾ m. Total, 17 ri 31 chō, 43½ m. This road is a continuation of the Kōshū Kaidō, the first section of which, from Tōkyō to Kōfu, has been described on p. 128. It is practicable for carriages and jinrikishas the whole way. Leaving Kōfu and crossing the Shio-gawa, an affluent of the Fujikawa, we reach Nirasaki (Inn, Yashima-ya) and Enno, also called Tsubarai or Maruno. [From Enno the ascent of Hō-ō-zan can be made.

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The distance to the top of the gap between Jizō-dake and Hō-ō-zan is called 5 ri. The path crosses the spur to the l. of the vill., and descends to the bed of the Komu-kawa, which is followed up until the actual ascent of 2½ ri commences.] From a grove of trees just beyond Tsubarai, there is a magnificent view of Koma-ga-take, the whole sweep to the sharp summit of the precipitous rocky mass being seen to perfect advantage. The road now ascends the valley of the Kamanashi-gawa. The greater part of it as far as Dai-ga-hara is built up on the stony beds of various streams. The scenery of the valley is very pretty, and in many places quite striking.

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The r. side is lined with peculiar castellated cliffs of brown conglomerate, while to the l. rises the high range of which Koma-ga-take is the principal feature. Further on, Yatsu-ga-take appears to the r., and on looking back beautiful and varied views of Fuji are to be seen. [One ri before reaching Dai-ga-hara, a path l. leads to the base of Jizō-dake (5 ri 28 chō), whence the mountain can be ascended.] We next reach Dai-ga-hara (Inn, Maru-ya), whence the ascent of the Kōshū Koma-ga-take can best be made. [The ascent is so precipitous and difficult in parts, and so long—nominally 7 ri to the summit—as to necessitate sleeping one night at the Ōmuro or Umadome huts on the mountain side.

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Water should be taken up, as none can be procured except at these huts. The summit consists of two peaks, on one of which stands a bronze figure of the Shintō god Ōnamuji. On the second and higher peak, called Oku-no-in, is a small image of the Buddhist god Marishiten. The summit commands a magnificent view on every side. Looking S. the eye sweeps over the valleys of the Norokawa and Tashiro-gawa, to the l. of which rises the long range of Shirane, the most conspicuous summits being the snow-streaked peak of Kaigane-san which stands in close proximity, and beyond, the bold mass of Ai-no-take, the central portion of the range. Beneath is the ravine through

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which the Norokawa flows as it winds round the base of Kaigane-san; the mountain to the r. is Senjō-ga-take. Beyond Shirane several high mountains are visible, and are probably those which stand on the N. boundary of Suruga. Towards the E. the valley of the Fujikawa is seen between the near summit of Hō-ō-zan and the E. slope of Kaigane, and in the far distance can be distinguished the promontory of Izu and the sea. The most striking feature of the view is Fuji, to whose l. a wide plain stretches far away to the E.

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Towards the N. and W. the following mountains are seen in succession:—a portion of the Chichibu range, Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, the lofty mountains on the borders of Etchū and Hida, Ontake, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshū, and Ena-san in Mino, while the nearer view includes the plain of Kōfu, the valley of the Kamanashi-gawa, Tateshina-yama, the mountains about the Wada pass, Lake Suwa, and the valley of the Tenryū-gawa.] Beyond Dai-ga-hara the road is lined on one side with fine red pine-trees, which shut out the view of the river as far as Kyōraishi (Inn, Izumi-ya).

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At the boundary of the provinces of Kōshū and Shinshū, the road crosses to the l. bank of the Kamanashi-gawa, and passing through the insignificant vill. of Shimo Tsutaki, reaches Kami Tsutaki (Inn, Ōsaka-ya), after which the road becomes hilly. The highest point is reached at 3,070 ft. above the sea, being 1,050 ft. above Dai-ga-hara. Thence it descends to Kanazawa (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya), and down the valley of the Miya-gawa, where the waters of Lake Suwa soon come in view. At Chūgo, where the road crosses a stream, and from several points further on, there is a fine view of the mountains on the borders of Hida, the most conspicuous summits being Iwasu-ga-take and Yari-ga-take.

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The lofty mountain in the distance to the l. of the lake is Nishi Koma-ga-take. Kami-no-Suwa (Inn, Botan-ya) is a busy town on the borders of the lake. About 2 ri distant is the Ichi no Miya, or chief Shintō temple of the province of Shinshū, which contains some excellent wood carvings. The annual festival is held on the 1st August. The road now skirts the slopes on the N. shore of the lake, and passing through the hamlets of Ōwa and Takaki, reaches Shimo-no-Suwa (see Route 39).

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8.—FROM KŌFU OVER THE MISAKA-TŌGE TO YOSHIDA AT THE BASE OF FUJI, AND TO GOTEMBA ON THE TŌKAIDŌ RAILWAY. Itinerary. Kōfu to Izawa, 1 ri 23 chō, 4 m.; Kami Kurogoma, 1 ri 31 chō, 4½ m.; Tōnoki, 1 ri 18 chō, 3¾ m.; Kawaguchi, 2 ri 30 chō, 6¾ m.; Yoshida, 2 ri 3 chō, 5¼ m.; Yamanaka, 4 ri 8 chō, 10¼ m.; Subashiri, 2 ri, 5 m.; Gotemba, 2 ri 30 chō, 7 m. Total, 18 ri 35 chō, 46¼ m. Time required, 2 days, stopping at Yoshida the first night. Yokohama may easily be reached on the evening of the second day by train from Gotemba. Jinrikishas with two men are practicable the whole way, when the roads are in a good state. The road follows the Kōshū Kaidō as far as Izawa (Inn, Shishimoto), where it turns off to the r.,

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and soon enters a narrow valley. From Kami Kurogoma, it rises rapidly to Tōnoki (Inn, Sakai-ya), 3,200 ft. above the sea. It then ascends for about 1 hr. through a forest to the hut on the summit of the Misaka-tōge, which is 5,120 ft. above the sea. The view of Fuji from this point, as it rises from Lake Kawaguchi, is justly celebrated. Below is the vill. of Kawaguchi; on the opposite side of the lake are Funatsu and Kodachi. Further S. is Lake Yamanaka. The view looking back towards the N. and W. includes Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-ga-take, Koma-ga-take, Jizō-dake, and in the plain below, the vill. of Izawa. It is an hour's descent to Kawaguchi (Inn, Nakamura), a poor vill. lying a couple of hundred yards from the lake.

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Boats can be procured from here to Funatsu, making an agreeable change in the day's work; or else one may follow the road skirting the lake through the hamlet of Akasawa for about ½ hr., with steep mountains on every side. Funatsu produces white and coloured tsumugi, a coarse fabric woven from spun floss silk. From Funatsu to Yoshida, and indeed all the way on to Subashiri and Gotemba, the road traverses the moor that forms the base of Fuji.

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9.—FROM KARUIZAWA ON THE NAKASENDŌ TO KŌFU BY THE TSUYUTARE PASS. Itinerary. Karuizawa to Iwamurata, 4 ri 33 chō, 12 m.; Usuda, 2 ri 5 chō, 5¼ m.; Takano-machi, 1 ri 7 chō, 3 m.; Hata, 1 ri 20 chō, 3¾ m.; Umijiri, 3 ri 10 chō, 8 m.; Itabashi, 2 ri 10 chō, 5½ m.; Nagasawa, 4 ri 4 chō, 10 m.; Nirasaki, 4 ri 32 chō, 12 m.; Kōfu, 3 ri 18 chō, 8½ m. Total, 27 ri 31 chō, 68 m. This route is recommended to those whose chief object is mountain climbing. Exclusive of such climbing, the journey takes 2 days, jinrikishas being available for the first part between Iwamurata and Usuda, and carriages from Nirasaki to Kōfu. The rest must be done on foot.

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There is accommodation of the usual country sort at the places mentioned in the itinerary. Hata is the best place from which to ascend Tateshina-yama. This expedition requires the whole of a long day, but is worth the trouble, on account of the extensive view which the peak commands. From Umijiri, at the end of the Iwasake gorge, one may visit the sulphur springs of Inago (21 chō), and thence go up to the Honzawa baths (3 ri), situated at a height of 3,200 ft. above Umijiri. The summit of the Honzawa pass, some 40 min. walk beyond the Honzawa baths, is 7,400 ft. above the sea. From this point a path leads to the summit of Mikaburi-yama, 8,450 ft. above the sea. The whole expedition will occupy a day.

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Itabashi is the best starting-point for the ascent of Aka-dake, but there is no path. Two ri from Itabashi across the moor is a wood-cutter's hut at the base of the spur where the ascent begins, and it is advisable to sleep here in order to make an early start in the morning. The hut is about 5,300 ft. above the sea, which leaves 3,690 ft. to be still ascended, the summit having an altitude of 8,990 ft., and the climb up it being very steep in parts. The view includes Asama-yama, Kimpu-zan, Fuji, and all the mountains on the W. boundary of Kōshū. Guides cannot always be procured at Itabashi.

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In this case it will be necessary to proceed to Hirasawa, half-way between Itabashi and Nagasawa, where they can always be had. From Nagasawa it is an easy climb up Gongen-dake, the most

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southerly of the numerous peaks known under the collective name of Yatsu-ga-take. It is not usual, however, with the Japanese to make the ascent until after the autumn equinox, and the traveller may, therefore, experience a little difficulty in obtaining guides. In this, as in the previous case, he will do best to make Hirasawa his starting-point. The ascent takes about 5 hrs., the descent to Nagasawa 3 hrs., that to Hirasawa 4 hrs.

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The view includes the whole of the Hida-Shinshū range, amongst which Yari-ga-take is conspicuous to the N.W., Fuji is seen towering aloft S. by E., the Kōshū Koma-ga-take S.W. by S., Shirane a little to its S., Hō-ō-zan S.S.W., distinguished by the monumental pile of rocks at its summit, and Kimpu-zan S.E. by E.

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