松島と金華山

ROUTE 30. MATSUSHIMA AND KINKWA-ZAN. THE MATSUSHIMA ARCHIPELAGO. NOBIRU. ISHINOMAKI. By train from Sendai on the Northern Railway to Shiogama in ½ hr. The archipelago of pine-clad islets collectively bearing the name of Matsushima, has been famed for its beauty ever since northern Japan was conquered from the Aino aborigines in the 8th century, and is one of the San-kei, or “Three Most Beautiful Scenes” of Japan, the other two being Miyajima and Ama-no-hashidate. A lengthened form of the name, Shiogama-no-Matsushima, i.e. “The Pine Islands of Shiogama,” is often made use of, Shiogama being the town on the coast where the curious landscape begins.

原資料 p. 239

The favourite way of viewing the scene is to row or sail across to the hamlet which has borrowed the name of Matsushima, unless it be desired also to visit Ishinomaki and Kinkwa-zan, in which case a very good view is afforded from the steamer's deck. These steamers ply daily between Shiogama and Ishinomaki, starting after the arrival of the first train from Sendai. The passage to Ishinomaki occupies about 3 hrs., or not so long when weather permits of the small river steamers going outside the bar at Nobiru, instead of taking the lengthier canal route.

原資料 p. 239

The larger boats which connect with the Nippon Yūsen Kwaisha's steamers at Oginohama on their voyages to and from Yokohama and Hakodate, also pass through the little archipelago, and take but 2 hrs. to cover the distance between Shiogama and Oginohama. Shiogama (Inns, Asano-ya, Saitō, Ebi-ya, all near the railway station and the pier; the old and noted inn

原資料 p. 239

on the hill called Shōgarō, a former pleasure-house of the Prince of Sendai, is still in existence, but being now-a-days inconveniently situated for train and steamer, is little patronised by travellers). The Temple, which once belonged to the Shingon sect of Buddhists and was known under the name of Hōrenji, should be visited. It has been transferred to the worship of the Shintō god Shiogama Daimyōjin, a son of the creator Izanagi, and the reputed discoverer of the way to obtain salt by evaporating sea-water. The word Shio-gama means Salt-Boiler. In the temple court will be noticed a sundial inscribed with Roman figures.

原資料 p. 240

It bears date 1783, and was presented by Rin Shihei, a writer noted for his zealous advocacy of the defence of the country against foreign inroads which he prophetically foresaw. There is likewise a handsome though weather-beaten iron lantern, presented by the warrior Izumi Saburō Tadahira in A.D. 1187. But in the temple's present state, the magnificent cryptomerias and other trees, in the midst of whose deep shade it stands, are undoubtedly the greatest attraction of the place. Shiogama is noted for its ink-stones.

原資料 p. 240

From Shiogama to the hamlet of Matsushima (Inn, Kwangetsu-rō) is a delightful sail amidst the promontories, bays, and islets, which stretch along the coast for 18 ri as far as Kinkwa-zan, the most celebrated of the group. There are said to be 88 islands between Shiogama and Matsushima, and 808 in all between Shiogama and Kinkwa-zan, of which but very few are inhabited. But 8 and its compounds are favourite round numbers with the Japanese, and moreover the smallest rocks are included in the enumeration. Each of them, down to the least, has received a separate name, many of them fantastic, as 'Buddha's Entry into Nirvana,' 'Question and Answer Island,' 'the Twelve Imperial Consorts,' and so on.

原資料 p. 240

All the islands are formed of volcanic tuff, into which the sea makes rapid inroads. Doubtless many of the smaller isles disappear in this manner, while their number is maintained by the gradual breaking up of peninsulas. In almost every available nook stands one of those thousand pine-trees, that have given name and fame to the locality. At the hamlet of Matsushima, the temple of Zuganji, in which are the ancestral tablets of the Date family, will repay a visit, though its exterior is not promising. In the outer court, in front of a small cave called the Hōshin ga Iwaya, are two large figures of Kwannon cut in slate-stone.

原資料 p. 240

There is also a well-carved wooden figure of Date Masamune in a shrine behind the chief altar. The various apartments of the temple are handsomely decorated; and when the gold foil which is lavishly strewn about was fresh, the effect must have been very fine. Specimens of non-hollow bamboo are brought for sale at the vill. of Matsushima, but being rare, are somewhat expensive.

原資料 p. 240

Two ri distant is Tomiyama, a hill from which by far the best general view of the archipelago is obtained, and where any traveller who, during the boat journey from Shiogama, may have been disappointed with his trip, will allow that the locality possesses great beauty, even should he think that this has been somewhat exaggerated by Japanese popular report. The whole distance may be accomplished in jinrikishas, excepting the last 3 chō leading up to the temple of Taikōji, which stands near the top of the ascent. This temple is said to have been founded by Tamura Maro, a celebrated general, who was sent against the Ainos during the reign

原資料 p. 240

of the Emperor Kwammu (circa A.D. 800). From this spot the eye wanders over a maze of islets and promontories, land and sea being mixed in inextricable but lovely confusion. In the direction of Shiogama, the double peak of Shiraishi-no-take may be descried in the blue distance, while to the r. rises the range dividing the province of Rikuzen from those of Uzen and Ugo. The highest hill to the l. is on the island of Funairishima, above the port of Ishibama, a place of call for merchant steamers. Tomiyama is but a short distance off the main-road to Ishinomaki, and may be taken on the way there either by jinrikisha or carriage,—altogether about 9 ri from Matsushima.

原資料 p. 241

In going by steamer from Shiogama, the islets are left behind after an hour's sail, and the canal which connects the shallow waters of the bay with Nobiru is entered. Nobiru (poor accommodation). The port of this place is little more than a creek with 5 or 6 ft. draught of water, and has a bar across its mouth. Some time ago, the course of the river was altered by making a cutting to a point about 2 m. inland, where there is a wide bend. It was expected that the flow of the river in its new bed would suffice to keep the channel clear, that the old bed of the Naruse-gawa would be available to take off any superfluous amount of water in times of flood, and that the bar at the mouth could be kept down by dredging.

原資料 p. 241

But all attempts to effect this have been unsuccessful, and the failure has put a stop to various other schemes which had the attention of the Government for increasing the facilities of trade in this region. The canal, 10 m. in length, connecting Nobiru with the Kitakami-gawa 2 m. above Ishinomaki, is part of the original scheme for making Nobiru the chief port in the Bay of Sendai, the mouth of the Kitakami-gawa being also exposed to the full sweep of the Pacific Ocean and to the violent S.W. gales that drive through the Matsushima group. A consequence of this is that the bar at the mouth of the river has likewise defied all efforts at removal.

原資料 p. 241

The canal is 100 ft. wide, and just deep enough to admit of large cargo boats being towed through. The level is maintained by means of a lock at the river end. The river steamers make use of this canal, except when the sea is very smooth outside. Ishinomaki (Inns, *Asano-ya, Hoshi-ya), noted for its slate-quarries and salmon fisheries, stands at the mouth of the river Kitakami, the natural outlet for the trade of the Nambu district and the N. It is a bustling little sea-port, possessing two banks and a bazaar. A fair amount of ship-building in European style is carried on.

原資料 p. 241

Hyōriyama, a hill at the entrance of the harbour, commands an extensive sea view, including the Matsushima archipelago, the windings of the river, a range of high mountains inland, and a bird's-eye view of the town. Steamers ascend the river daily to Kozenji, which is about 2½ m. from Ichinoseki, a station on the Northern Railway. The journey down the river is recommended instead, as the boats run through to Shiogama in one day, generally in from 9 to 10 hrs., but frequently taking much longer, owing to stoppages on the way for cargo (see p. 196).

原資料 p. 241

2.—KINKWA-ZAN. The most direct means of reaching this noted island is by one of the Nippon Yūsen Kwaisha's tri-weekly steamers to Oginohama (Inns, Kagi-ya, Ōmori), in the Bay of Sendai, whence small sailing boats can be obtained for Kinkwa-zan, a distance of about 10 ri.

原資料 p. 241

But it is more generally approached from the port of Ishinomaki, where boats are also procurable; or if it is desired to shorten the sea passage, jinrikishas may taken from Ishinomaki to the vill. of Wada-no-ha (Inn by Ishikawa Jūbei), which lies 1½ ri further along the coast between Ishinomaki and Oginohama. The cost of boats from Wada-no-ha to Kinkwa-zan was $1.43 per boatman in 1890. The distance by water is estimated at 11 ri, from which again 2 ri may be saved by landing at the hamlet of Aikawa-hama (Inn, Izumi-ya), situated in a small bay to the W. of the channel separating Kinkwa-zan from the mainland. The latter plan is recommended.

原資料 p. 242

There is a road from Wada-no-ha to Oginohama, 4½ ri; but it is not practicable for jinrikishas, neither is the hilly path of 4 ri more which leads directly to the ferry at Kinkwa-zan. Nothing is gained by starting from Oginohama, owing to its situation at the head of a deeply indented bay, unless the traveller has come by steamer from Yokohama, in which case there is no alternative. The time taken from Wada-no-ha depends upon the state of the wind. An unfavourable wind affords an additional reason for landing at Aikawa-hama.

原資料 p. 242

From this hamlet to the ferry called Yamadori, is a walk of a little more than 1 m. over a low pass, the top of which affords an entrancing view of Kinkwa-zan and the entire Matsushima archipelago. A short descent then leads to the ferry-house, where the sonorous notes of a fine bronze bell announce to the boatmen on the sacred island that passengers are waiting to be conveyed across. Boats cannot be kept on this part of the mainland, owing to its exposure to the great seas which roll in from the Pacific, whilst the W. side of Kinkwa-zan opposite to it is comparatively sheltered.

原資料 p. 242

Spacious boats well-manned soon perform the 2 m. passage, and land the visitor at a small breakwater on Kinkwa-zan, a short distance below the temples. The tame deer with which the island abounds form picturesque objects as they stand on projecting ledges of rock, or graze quietly by the side of the road that leads up through a wood composed of pine, beech, and chestnut trees. The only buildings on the island are those attached to the temples at which every one must stay; but there is ample accommodation for all under the massive roof of the main edifice. Passports should be shown by the foreign visitor to the priests.

原資料 p. 242

A liberal contribution, if he desires to stay overnight, will generally ensure the use of the jōdan, two large handsome rooms. If it is intended to return the same day a lesser offering will suffice. No other payments are necessary. Excellent vegetarian food is provided, and served up by the acolytes. Guides are also furnished to conduct the visitor around the island, if a request to that effect is made. Kinkwa-zan is one of the most renowned spots in the north, and has been, in spite of its inaccessibility, the resort of pilgrims from all parts of Japan for centuries past.

原資料 p. 242

Such was its sanctity in old days, and such the inferior position assigned to woman, that they were not permitted to gaze on the island, much less put their feet upon it. It need scarcely be said that those days are past; but some of the old customs connected with the place still linger around it. For instance, every pilgrim is conveyed gratis to and from the island, and receives food and shelter from the priests until his devotions are over. What contribution he may choose to make, rests entirely with himself. The origin of the name Kinkwa-zan ('golden-flower mountain') is obscure.

原資料 p. 242

Tradition asserts that gold was found on the island then known as Michinoku-yama; and the following lines in the Manyōshū, an anthology of the 8th century, are supposed to refer to the discovery: Sumerogi no Mi yo sakaen to Azuma naru Michinoku-yama ni Kogane hana saku

原資料 p. 242

which means, "To add lustre to the sovereign's august reign, golden flowers bloom in the mountains of Michinoku in the East." It is more probable, however, that it derived its name from the glitter of the quantity of mica found in the soil. Almost everything required by the temple inmates is raised on the spot. Their sake, of which 130 koku are produced yearly, is specially noted for the soothing peculiarity that no headache follows even unlimited libations. Every pilgrim is therefore allowed to drink to his heart's content. The chief festivals take place in February, March, August, and September.

原資料 p. 243

Regarding the history of the temples very little can be learnt, all the records and relics connected with them having been lost by fire. Before the transfer of the buildings to the Shintō cult, they were attached to the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and dedicated to the service of the goddess Benten. Some of the original smaller shrines are still standing; but the Go-Honzō, or chief temple, was built only some ten years ago, and is dedicated to the god and goddess Kanayama-Hiko-no-Mikoto and Kanayama-Hime-no-Mikoto. Though it otherwise exhibits pure Shintō style, the eaves are adorned with fine carvings.

原資料 p. 243

The contribution box in front, made of a block of slate-stone and measuring 9 ft. in length and 3 ft. in breadth, with carvings of deer in relief, as well as the gaku in the oratory, a splendid piece of carving in keyaki wood, which took three years to finish, are well-worth inspection. The walk to the summit of Kinkwan-zan takes about ½ hr. from the temple, being but some 16 chō. The path leads behind the main buildings, mostly through broken boulders and over the interlaced roots of beech-trees. The objects pointed out on the way are detached pieces of rock with fanciful designations.

原資料 p. 243

Only one of these rocks, to judge from the immense cairn raised upon it, seems to have attracted the attention of pilgrims; and this is where Kōbō Daishi is said to have sat in meditation when he visited the island. The glorious view from the summit repays the traveller for any difficulty he may have had in reaching Kinkwa-zan. Nothing obstructs the vista of the broad and blue Pacific; for the mountain, although densely wooded on all sides, slopes gradually down to the sea. On the W. side, the whole Matsushima archipelago is embraced,—even the outermost isles to the N., fringed with a thousand pines and encircled by white breakers.

原資料 p. 243

Takahashi-yama, a higher peak to the N.W. on the mainland, shuts out the prospect in that direction only. The small shrine on the top of Kinkwa-zan is dedicated to Watazumi-no-Mikoto, the Shintō God of the Sea. Close by it is the site of the lighthouse which stood there until the erection of the present fine granite structure on the E. side of the island. A path from the summit descends to the lighthouse, and joins what is called the Pilgrim's Circuit, a road round the island which no visitor should fail to follow, as it affords glimpses of wild coast scenery unsurpassed on the N.E. coast, noted though this be for its picturesque beauty.

原資料 p. 243

The circuit of the island by road is estimated at from 5 to 6 ri, and takes about the same number of hours to accomplish. The return from Kinkwa-zan is usually made direct by water to Oginohama, Ishinomaki, or—should the wind be favourable—to Shiogama.

原資料 p. 243