越中と飛騨の山々

ROUTE 34. THE MOUNTAINS OF ETCHU AND HIDA. 1. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 2. TATEYAMA. 3. FROM TOYAMA TO TAKAYAMA IN HIDA BY THE VALLEY OF THE TAKAHARA-GAWA. 4. KANAZAWA IN KAGA TO TAKAYAMA BY THE VALLEY OF THE SHIRAKAWA. 5. TAKAYAMA TO MATSUMOTO AND UEDA BY THE HIRAYU AND ABO PASSES; ASCENT OF NORIKURA. [TAKAYAMA TO MATSUMOTO BY THE NOMUGI PASS.] 6. TAKAYAMA TO GIFU ON THE TOKAIDO RAILWAY. 7. TAKAYAMA TO FUKUSHIMA ON THE NAKASENDO. 8. YARI-GA-TAKE. 9. NAGANO TO TOYAMA OVER THE HARINOKI PASS. 10. ONTAKE AND THE KOMA-GA-TAKE OF SHINSHU. 11. HAKU-SAN. 1. Introductory Remarks.

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The provinces of Etchu and Hida may be conveniently taken together, because hemmed in between the same high mountain ranges which render this region exceptionally difficult of access, and have prevented it from being much visited even by the natives of the surrounding provinces. Lying completely beyond the reach of railways and modern civilisation, no part of Japan has changed so little of late years. The range bounding these provinces on the E. is the most considerable in the Empire. The only one that can compare with it is that lying between the Fuji-kawa and the Tenryu-gawa in the provinces of Koshu, Shinshu, Suruga, and Totomi.

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Many of the peaks are streaked with snow until the early autumn, while in some of the recesses and gorges where it is partially screened from the sun's rays, the snow never entirely disappears.

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Extending almost due N. and S. for a length of 60 or 70 miles, with a breadth of from 5 to 10 miles, this range forms a well-nigh impenetrable barrier to communication from the S. and E. It consists chiefly of granite, overlaid in places with igneous rocks. Norikura and Tateyama are volcanic peaks. The highest and most conspicuous of the numerous peaks, beginning at the N., are as follows: Tateyama, 9,500 ft.; Yari-ga-take, 10,000 ft.; Norikura, 9,800 ft.; Ontake, 9,800 ft.; Haku-san, 8,900 ft.; Koma-ga-take, 10,300 ft. Among the wild animals of this region may be mentioned bears, deer, the goat-faced antelope, and two kinds of boars. The streams abound with trout.

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The few inhabitants are hardy, simple folk, clad in hempen garments, often with the addition of an antelope skin, and earning a scanty living by hunting, wood-cutting, and charcoal burning. Their food consists of buckwheat and millet, while barley, hemp, beans, and mulberry-leaves form the other chief productions of the valleys. It will thus be seen that the mountaineer has but hard fare to expect, and will be wise to provide himself with as many tins of meat, preserved milk, etc., as can be packed into a small compass. The recommendation is advisedly framed in these terms; for much luggage cannot be carried, owing to the general scarcity of men to carry it.

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Needless to add that the accommodation is often of the roughest. Only at Toyama the capital of Etchu, at Takayama the capital of Hida, and at a few other of the larger towns, is the ordinary standard of Japanese provincial comfort attained. Should the varying efficiency of the carrying companies which undertake to forward goods from one portion of Japan to another permit, comparative comfort and plenty may be ensured by sending boxes of food, extra clothing, books, and whatever else may be required, ahead to the chief towns through which one expects to pass. It is, however, always advisable to leave a good margin of time, as the Japanese are not to be relied on for punctuality or despatch.

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For practical convenience sake, three mountains have been included in this route that do not topographically belong to it - Haku-san, Ontake and the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu - because, though not actually forming part of the same range, they are not far distant from it, and are likely to interest the same class of travellers, and to be visited during the same trip. The district treated of in this route may be best approached from one of three sides, viz. from Ueda or Nagano on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway; from Fukushima, further south in Shinshu; or from the Sea of Japan, on which side Toyama is the most natural starting-point.

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The two former approaches are to be preferred by travellers from Tokyo, the last by those coming from Kyoto. 2. TATEYAMA. Tateyama is the collective name given to the lofty summits which stand on the E. border of the province of Etchu, and which, together with the jagged peak of Tsurugi-dake, form the N. extremity of the greatest range of mountains in Japan. The highest of the peaks (Go-honsha), is about 9,500 ft. above the level of the sea. The main ascent leads up the W. side of the mountain from the hamlet of Ashikura, which can be easily reached from Toyama. The road up the mountain is

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arduous in parts, nor is there any shelter, except two or three wretched huts, to be got during the whole distance of 20 m. from Ashikura to the Muro-do, 2 1/2 m. from the summit. The Muro-do itself is but a somewhat better hut, which is opened for the accommodation of pilgrims from the 20th July to the 10th September. No bedding is procurable, nor any food except rice. [In a valley situated about 6 cho to the l. of the Muro-do are the remarkable solfataras of Ojigoku ('Big Hell'). The whole valley seems alive with pools of boiling mud and sulphur.] From the Muro-do hut to the highest summit, whose name of Go-honsha comes from the picturesque temple with which it is crowned, is 1 hr. climb, partly over snow.

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At the end, a truly superb panorama unfolds itself before the spectator's gaze. The number of mountains to be distinguished is extraordinarily great. To the extreme l., looking eastward, are seen Myoko-zan, Myogi-san, and Yoneyama in Echigo, Nantai-zan near Nikko, and Togakushi-san and Asama-yama in Shinshu. Towards the S. rises the range of Yatsu-ga-take, with the isolated peak of Tateshina-yama, beyond which are seen Fuji and the high peaks of Shirane and Koma-ga-take in Koshu. Further S. again are Koma-ga-take and Ontake in Shinshu; Yari-ga-take, Norikura, Kasa-ga-take, and in closer proximity, Yakushi-dake, all in Hida. To the S.W. is Haku-san on the borders of Kaga.

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Below, to the W., lie the plains of Kaga and Etchu, the latter watered by the rivers Jinzu and Jogwanji, while to the N. the view is bounded by the Sea of Japan. 3. FROM TOYAMA TO TAKAYAMA IN HIDA BY THE VALLEY OF THE TAKAHARA-GAWA. Itinerary. TOYAMA to: Kumano, 1 ri 18 cho, 3 3/4 m.; Okubo, 1 ri 18 cho, 3 3/4 m.; Machinaga, 2 ri 18 cho, 6 m.; Yoshino, 2 ri, 5 m.; Inotani, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Urushi-yama, 4 ri, 9 3/4 m.; Funatsu, 2 ri, 5 m.; Terabayashi, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Yamada, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Suyama, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Yokamachi, 2 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Hirose, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Takayama, 2 ri 8 cho, 5 1/2 m. Total, 22 ri 26 cho, 55 1/3 m. The above distances are only approximate.

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At the hamlet of Kumano the road crosses the Kumano-gawa, and, after passing through Okubo, ascends to the hot springs of Yaki, where, entering the mountains, it continues up the r. bank of the Jinzu-gawa to Machinaga. So far it is possible to take horses; but beyond this point all baggage must be carried by cattle or on coolies' backs. From Machinaga onwards the scenery becomes romantic. The road follows the side of a deep precipice and in some places quite overhangs the stream, being built out on projecting logs of wood. In the ravine below is the Jinzu-gawa, at times flowing along in silence, a deep, smooth, placid sheet of water, at other times dashing with impetuous violence.

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On the inner side of the path, a swift stream flows along a canal constructed in 1807 to convey water to Nihonmatsu and other villages in the plain to the E. of the Jinzu-gawa. Each curve of the road discloses new and more charming views of the river. Mountain torrents tumble down the gullies on the l., leaping from rock to rock to join the rush of waters far below.

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After passing the hamlets of Terazu and Usunami, the traveller reaches Yoshino (poor accommodation). Close to this vill., the Jinzu-gawa is crossed in a kago-watashi. Fine salmon-trout weighing from 4 to 8 lbs., are taken in the river. A four-pronged spear, which fits into a staff having a stout line attached to it, is used for catching these fish. Ai and iwana are also taken by netting. The seasons for fishing are the end of spring and the beginning of autumn. After Yoshino the road ascends, and comes to a more open part of the valley cultivated with tobacco and potatoes.

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Before reaching Inotani, close to the boundary of the provinces of Etchu and Hida, the Jinzu-gawa curves away to the r., while the path to Funatsu follows the r. bank of the Takahara-gawa, one of its affluents. There is a very picturesque view at the forking of the rivers, and almost the whole of the way hence to Funatsu is one of continued rugged grandeur. The copper-smelting works of the Maebira mine at Daira, which is one of the most productive in Japan, are passed shortly before reaching Funatsu (Inn by Kakeni Gonshichi), a fair-sized place, where horses can again be engaged for the transport of baggage to the end of the journey.

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On the way to Yamada is a small pass called Akasaka, 3,850 ft. above the sea, and 1,600 ft. above Funatsu. The tea-house of Sakakoba, 1/2 m. down on the other side, may be recommended for a short halt on account of the beautiful view which it commands across the Yokamachi valley and the low pine-clad hills separating this valley from that of the Miyagawa and the plain round Takayama. At Hirose jinrikishas can sometimes be obtained. Takayama (Inn, Taniga-ya), the capital of Hida, is divided into three main parts, called respectively Ichi-no-machi, Ni-no-machi, and San-no-machi. The shops are poor.

原資料 p. 265

A good panorama of the town and neighbouring mountains can be had from Shiroyama, a hill close by on which a castle formerly stood. It is only a ten minutes' climb. 4. FROM KANAZAWA IN KAGA TO TAKAYAMA IN HIDA BY THE VALLEY OF THE SHIRAKAWA. Itinerary. KANAZAWA to: Futamata, 2 ri 28 cho, 6 3/4 m.; Fukumitsu, 2 ri 26 cho, 6 3/4 m.; Jo-ga-hana, 1 ri 8 cho, 3 m.; Shimo Nashi, 4 ri 4 cho, 10 m.; Nishi Akao, 2 ri 26 cho, 6 3/4 m.; Tsubaki-hara, 3 ri 10 cho, 8 m.; Iijima, 2 ri 18 cho, 6 m.; Herase, 2 ri 30 cho, 7 m.; Kurodani, 3 ri 27 cho, 9 1/4 m.; Mumai, 1 ri 33 cho, 4 3/4 m.; Kami Odori, 2 ri 18 cho, 6 m.; Maki-ga-hora, 2 ri 26 cho, 6 3/4 m.; Mikka-machi, 10 cho, 3/4 m.; Takayama, 1 ri 20 cho, 3 3/4 m.

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Total, 34 ri 32 cho, 85 1/4 m. This route is not practicable for jinrikishas except between Fukumitsu and Jo-ga-hana, and again between Mikka-machi and Takayama. Jinrikishas are always to be found at Fukumitsu, but at Mikka-machi they cannot be depended on. Horses are not procurable in the valley of the Shirakawa, and baggage is transported by cattle or on coolies' backs. Fairly good accommodation can be had at most of the villages. The scenery is delightfully picturesque, and there are many magnificent distant views. Near Jo-ga-hana is a pool called Nawa-ike, or the Rope Pool, which is regarded with superstitious awe by the people of the

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whole country-side. It is visited by pilgrims and the inhabitants of the surrounding district after the rice harvest is over; but from the time of planting out the young rice until the harvest is reaped, no one will approach the spot, it being supposed that if any one does so, storms and destruction of crops will follow as a punishment awarded by the deity under whose presiding care the pool is placed.

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So firmly indeed is this superstition engrained in the minds of the peasantry, that watchmen from the different hamlets are selected to guard the various approaches to the pool, and the inhabitants have also bound themselves, under penalty of banishment from their native place, not to act as guides to any travellers before the harvest is over. 5. FROM TAKAYAMA TO MATSUMOTO, AND TO UEDA ON THE KARUIZAWA-NAOETSU RAILWAY, BY THE HIRAYU AND ABO PASSES. ASCENT OF NORIKURA. [NOMUGI PASS.] Itinerary.

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TAKAYAMA to: Matsunoki, 15 cho, 1 m.; Hachi-ga-machi, 1 ri 3 cho, 2 3/4 m.; Otani, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Hiomo, 1 ri 17 cho, 3 1/2 m.; Kute, 1 ri 28 cho, 4 1/4 m.; Hirayu, 2 ri 8 cho, 5 1/2 m.; top of Abo-toge, 2 ri, 5 m.; descent to Azusa-gawa, 2 ri, 5 m.; top of Hinoki-toge, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Onogawa, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Kumanosawa, 3 ri 25 cho, 9 m.; Matsumoto, about 7 ri 18 cho, 18 1/4 m. Total, 25 ri 6 cho, 61 1/2 m. Leaving the E. end of Takayama (see p. 233), the road traverses the vill. of Matsunoki, where a rope stretched across the valley testifies to an ancient superstition. According to the date at which the weather causes this rope to snap, omens are drawn for the crops of the ensuing twelve month.

原資料 p. 266

It is replaced yearly on the 7th day of the 7th moon. This spot is one of the 'Eight Views' of the province of Hida. At the top of the Tete-zaka, before descending to Hachi-ga-machi, the summits of Yari-ga-take, Kasadake, Norikura, and Ontake come in view. At the temple of Genraiji in Hachi-ga-machi the priests are willing to receive foreigners. There are several other temples on the road as far as Hiomo, where accommodation can be had; but after the latter place it is not possible to stay anywhere until reaching Hirayu. The first part of the walk is extremely picturesque, and the road is good as far as Hiomo, beyond which it is but a pathway.

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At Kute commences the ascent of the Hirayu Pass, which lies through the forest for a little more than 1 ri. The descent on the other side, also 1 ri, is extremely steep, down to the hollow between high mountains where nestles the little hamlet of Hirayu (fair accommodation). This place is frequented by the people of the province for the sake of its strengthening mineral hot waters. The only sight in the neighbourhood is a cascade some 200 ft. high, formed by the river Takahara near its source, and distant 13 cho. The snowy mountain to the N.W. of the vill. is Kasadake. Hirayu is abandoned during the winter months, when the people return to Otani.

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The road now passes over the Abo-toge, called also the Shinano-toge (6,400 ft.), into the province of Shinshu. Pedestrians use this pass in preference to that of Nomugi, the distance being 3 ri shorter; but the way is not practicable for horses or cattle. Yari-ga-take and Kasadake on the l., and Haku-san to the S.W., are seen during the latter part of the ascent; but from the summit of the pass the view is almost entirely shut out, nor is there any extensive prospect on the way down. There are several resting-places suitable for a midday halt.

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Onogawa (Inn by Okuta Kiichi) is a small vill. picturesquely situated on the banks of the Maegawa, an affluent of the Azusa-gawa, at a height of 3,300 ft. [From this place it is possible to ascend Norikura. But as the climb to the summit and back may prove too much for one day, the traveller is advised to sleep at the furthest hut, about 1 1/2 ri higher up, on the way to which are passed the remains of old furnaces, heaps of slag and ore, etc., indicating the site of the once extensive smelting works of Obi Ginzan. In the side of the hill near by, are seen the openings of the levels of the old mine, which has not been worked since 1860. The ore consists of galena containing a small quantity of silver.

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The sleeping-hut (4,800 ft.) stands not far from a small stream abounding in excellent trout. There is no road from the hut to the summit, and only occasional traces of a path. At the end there is a climb up a steep snow-field, and then over lava blocks and scoriae, which finally lead to the small shrine of Asahi Gongen on the highest point of the mountain, 9,800 ft. above the sea. Time from the sleeping hut, at least 4 hrs. Norikura is an old volcano, the peak being really one of the sides of the crater from which extensive lava-flows have poured out, notably in the direction of Onogawa. Near the summit is a lake.]

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From Onogawa to Kumanosawa is a charming walk down a secluded gorge walled in by densely wooded mountains, while below rush first the Maegawa and then the Azusa-gawa, spanned at intervals by picturesque bridges. After Kumanosawa, the mountains open out to form the plain of Matsumoto (see p. 220). From Matsumoto, the station of Ueda on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway can be reached by carriage in 6 hrs. [An alternative way from Takayama to Matsumoto is over the Nomugi Pass. The Itinerary is as follows.

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TAKAYAMA to: Kabuto, 3 ri 1 cho, 7 1/2 m.; Kibyu-dani, 2 ri 31 cho, 7 m.; Naka-no-shuku, 1 ri 13 cho, 3 1/4 m.; Nomugi, 3 ri 23 cho, 9 m.; Kawaura, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.; Yoriaido, 2 ri 18 cho, 6 m.; Nyu-yama, 2 ri, 5 m.; Inekoki, 18 cho, 1 1/4 m.; Shimashima, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Niimura, 3 ri 18 cho, 8 1/2 m.; Matsumoto, 1 ri 18 cho, 3 3/4 m. Total, 24 ri 32 cho, 61 m. Nomugi and Shimashima are the best places to stop at on the way.] 6. FROM TAKAYAMA IN HIDA TO GIFU ON THE TOKAIDO RAILWAY. A road called the Hida Kaido leads from Takayama down the valley of the Hidagawa to Gifu on the Tokaido Railway. The first part of the way - that lying within the province of Hida - affords delightful views.

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But on crossing the frontier into Mino, of which Gifu is the capital, one meets with a sudden change in the character of the scenery, bare sandy hillocks replacing the well-wooded valleys and rocky ravines of the earlier portion.

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Gero, also called Yunoshima, possesses mineral springs. There is fair accommodation on the way, especially at Shimohara. The road is practicable for jinrikishas. Itinerary. TAKAYAMA to: Kukuno, 3 ri 4 cho, 7 1/2 m.; Ossaka, 3 ri 32 cho, 9 1/2 m.; Hagiwara, 3 ri 1 cho, 7 1/2 m.; Gero, 2 ri 4 cho, 5 1/4 m.; Hodo, 3 ri 18 cho, 8 1/2 m.; Shimohara, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.; Kanayama, 14 cho, 1 m.; Kamibuchi, 3 ri 13 cho, 8 1/4 m.; Nakanoho, 1 ri 33 cho, 4 3/4 m.; Seki, 5 ri 1 cho, 12 1/4 m.; Akutami, 2 ri 4 cho, 5 1/4 m.; Gifu, 2 ri 6 cho, 5 1/4 m. Total, 33 ri 22 cho, 82 m. 7. FROM TAKAYAMA IN HIDA TO FUKUSHIMA ON THE NAKASENDO. Itinerary.

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TAKAYAMA to: Kabuto, 3 ri 1 cho, 7 1/2 m.; Kibyu-dani, 2 ri 31 cho, 7 m.; Naka-no-shuku, 1 ri 13 cho, 3 1/4 m.; Kami-no-hara, 1 ri 18 cho, 3 3/4 m.; Adango, 1 ri 5 cho, 2 3/4 m.; Hiwada, 2 ri 20 cho, 6 1/4 m.; Kami Nishino, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.; Suegawa, 2 ri 1 cho, 5 m.; Kurokawa, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.; Fukushima, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m. Total, 21 ri 17 cho, 52 1/2 m. As far as Nishino, baggage is generally carried by women, sometimes by cattle. Though either means of transport is objectionable, there is apparently no other alternative. Beautiful views occur all along the route.

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The best accommodation is at Kami Nishino, whence it is possible to ascend Ontake, a climb of 7 ri; but the way is a difficult one, and either of those given on pp. 238-9 is to be preferred. 8. YARI-GA-TAKE. Yari-ga-take, lit. Spear Peak, is most easily reached from the Shinshu side via Ueda on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway, Matsumoto, and Shimashima (see p. 220). The way up the mountain - now a mere track where formerly there existed a proper road - leads over a pass 7,000 ft. high, before descending to the bank of a rivulet where stands the sleeping hut (Tokumoto no koya) at an altitude of 4,950 ft., and at a distance of 7 or 8 hrs. from Shimashima.

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Inconvenience arises from the fact of this hut being too far from the summit of the mountain for the ascent and descent to be easily accomplished on the same day. Another hut, called Miyagawa no koya, 3 ri further on at the actual base of the mountain, is a better starting-point, but difficult to reach in one day from Shimashima unless the baggage be sent on in front. In this quandary the traveller must make his own choice. We should, however, advise going on the first day from Shimashima to the Tokumoto no koya, where sleep; ascend the mountain, and return to a rude shelter called Akasa no koya on the second day, returning to Shimashima on the third.

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We should also propose that, in addition to the guide, the traveller take with him a strong coolie to carry him across the torrent, which has to be forded many times, occasionally almost waist-deep. The distance from the Miyagawa hut to the summit is called 6 ri. The ascent can be accomplished in 7 hrs., and the descent in 4 1/2 hrs. The route lies alternately up one side or the other of the bed or banks of this torrent for about 3 hrs. On the l., steep, craggy granitic mountains rise to a height of from 7,000 ft. to 8,000 ft., while on the r. are tamer wooded hills.

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Noble mountains are these precipitous masses of granite, surpassing in wildness any to be seen elsewhere in Japan, their curiously steep forms being not unlike some of the ideal crags depicted in Chinese art. Perhaps there is no part of the country in so truly primeval a state - with the exception of some parts of Yamato - than this torrent valley in the heart of the Shinano-Hida range, whose sole frequenters are hunters seeking bears or the sheep-faced antelope. At an elevation of 6,400 ft., a rude shed called Akasaka no Iwa-goya, a camping-place for hunters, is passed; and just above here the forest ceases, and the first snow-field is crossed.

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Hence the road lies mostly over snow; but just below the summit, between the peaks, the route winds up and among huge bare masses of rock piled in indescribable confusion. From the irregular resting of some of these crags, so called 'caves' are formed, wherein the hunters take up their quarters whilst watching for bears. Ptarmigan are common here. A stiff climb up snow and over debris, and a rather dangerous scramble up one side of the peak, land the traveller on a table of a few square yards of rock, the top of the 'spear' of the mountain. 9. FROM NAGANO TO TOYAMA IN ETCHU OVER THE HARINOKI PASS.

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The greater portion of the following itinerary and of the description given below must be regarded as approximate only, the difficulty of keeping communication open across so rugged a country being peculiarly great. There is no possibility of crossing the pass before the yama-biraki, or 'mountain opening,' on the 20th June. Even during the summer months communication is often entirely interrupted, and none but the most experienced mountaineers can hope to succeed in forcing a path for themselves. Itinerary.

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NAGANO to: Sasadaira, 3 ri 18 cho, 8 1/2 m.; Shimmachi, 2 ri 18 cho, 6 m.; Obara, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Hashigi, 1 ri 18 cho, 3 3/4 m.; So, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Omachi, 2 ri 30 cho, 7 m.; Noguchi, 18 cho, 1 1/4 m.; Shirazawa, 2 ri 18 cho, 6 m.; Maruishi-bashi, 1 ri 2 cho, 2 1/2 m.; top of Harinoki Pass, 1 ri 21 cho, 3 3/4 m.; Futamata, 24 cho, 1 3/4 m.; Kurobe, 2 ri 11 cho, 5 3/4 m.; top of Zaragoe, 1 ri 7 cho, 3 m.; Yumoto, 2 ri, 5 m.; Yanagiwara, 31 cho, 2 m.; Seko, 1 ri 6 cho, 2 3/4 m.; Hara, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.; Omi, 1 ri, 2 1/2 m.; Kamidaki, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.; Toyama, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.

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Total, 36 ri 6 cho, 88 1/4 m. * Or NAGANO to: Sasadaira, 3 ri 18 cho, 8 1/2 m.; Nakajo, 2 ri, 5 m.; Takebu, 2 ri, 5 m.; Semmi, 2 ri, 5 m.; Omachi, 3 ri 18 cho, 8 1/2 m. Total, 13 ri, 31 3/4 m. This is the postal route, but that given in the text is more picturesque. Jinrikishas can be taken as far as the hamlet of Koichi, where the Saigawa is joined and from which point the scenery becomes pretty. One ri before reaching Shimmachi (Inn, Kome-ya), the road passes over the Yanoshiri-toge, a steep ascent of 18 cho.

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The descent to the hamlet of Anadaira on the other side was the scene of a great convulsion in the year 1847, when, owing to an earthquake, the river was dammed up by a fall of masses of earth from the hills on both sides. A small cascade marks the spot where the waters afterwards broke through. Boats formerly went all the way down from Matsumoto to Nagano, but their passage has ever since been interrupted at Anadaira.

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Omachi (Inn, Yama-cho) presents an old-world appearance, owing to its flat-roofed wooden houses like the cottages in the Alps, with heavy stones to keep down the shingling. At Noguchi, where comfortable quarters can be obtained, enquiries should be made as to the state of the road, and stout-limbed guides engaged for the ascent of the Harinoki Pass. Under favourable conditions, the next day ought to bring the traveller to Kurobe. The summer limit of the snow on the Harinoki Pass is reached about 1 ri from the top, at an elevation of 5,300 ft.

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From the summit (7,700 ft.), Fuji is seen as in a vignette between the ranges of Yatsu-ga-take and Koma-ga-take, the other most noteworthy feature of the view being Yari-ga-take. [A peak called Goroku-dake, 9,100 ft., may be ascended from this point; but there is no shelter to sleep in.] The traveller now leaves the province of Shinshu for that of Etchu, and will notice, both on the summit and on the way down, the alder-trees (hari-no-ki, or han-no-ki) which give their name to the pass. The valley on this side is known as the Harinoki-sawa. Kurobe is a tiny hamlet with a fishing stream. The road from Kurobe to the baths of Yumoto lies over two steep ascents, the Nukui-dani-toge and the Zaragoe.

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The view from the top of the latter is magnificent. All around, enormous landslips and confused masses of rock, hurled down from the tops of the mountains to the gorge below, bear witness to the terribly destructive forces by which this part of the country has been ravaged. The rocky mass in front is one of the slopes of Tateyama, while on the l. a view of the soft plains of Toyama and of the sea beyond contrasts agreeably with the savage aspect of the nearer landscape. The Jinzu-gawa is seen in the plain wending its way towards the Sea of Japan, and the blue outline of the provinces of Kaga and Noto fills up the distant background. The descent is through a wilderness of rocks and stones.

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Here and there sulphur fumes are seen rising from the mountain side. Yumoto, or Ryuzan-jita, situated in a desolate waste, possesses hot-springs. All around is a chaos of large boulders, sand, and stones. Mountain sides dashed down by the violence of the earthquake of 1858 still remain a mass of confusion to tell the tale of awful destruction which then occurred. A large portion of Tombi, the precipitous mountain S. of the baths, fell right across the valley and dammed up the stream.

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A month later, when the snow melted and the water burst through its barrier, the villages below, right away down the valley of the Jogwanji-gawa, were deluged with liquid mud; and houses, fields, and human beings were overwhelmed in one common destruction. On leaving Yumoto, the path continues down a magnificently rugged gorge, called Dashiwara-dani at its upper end. It is often necessary to cross the Jogwanji by a kago no watashi, or basket slung to ropes. Before descending to Kamidaki, the best general view of Tateyama and of the range forming the boundary of the province of Etchu is obtained.

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The names of the highest summits, in order from the l., are as follows: Tsurugi-dake, Kodake, Go-honsha, Jodo, Tombi, Kuwasaki, and Arimine-Yakushi. The road onward crosses a well-cultivated plain, and joins the Hokkoku Kaido a few cho before reaching Toyama (see p. 230). 10. ONTAKE AND THE KOMA-GA-TAKE OF SHINSHU. The best starting point for the ascent of Ontake for those approaching it from the Nakasendo side is Fukushima,

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whence it may easily be climbed in one day, or Agematsu, whence the expedition is rather too long for one day, making it generally advisable to spend the night at the Ta-no-hora hut. The climb is a somewhat rough one. The view from the summit embraces Haku-san to the N.W., then to the r. the peninsula of Noto, and still further to the r. a row of mighty peaks that bear traces of snow even during the greatest summer heats. Conspicuous among these peaks are Tateyama, Yari-ga-take, and Norikura. Far to the N.E. rise the volcano of Asama and the chain separating the provinces of Kozuke and Shinshu. To the S.E. appear Yatsu-ga-take and far-off Fuji, with the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu in the nearer distance.

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The Shinshu Koma-ga-take is most conveniently ascended from Agematsu. The distance from that village to the summit is called 4 ri 8 cho, and the ascent, part of which is very steep, will occupy a good walker over 5 hrs. The native pilgrims, who do not care to make the round of the various peaks forming the top of the mountain, but merely wish to visit Go-honsha, the highest point, usually ascend and descend in one day. But the traveller is recommended rather to time his excursion so as to sleep at a hut called Tamakubo, 3 ri 32 cho from Agematsu, in order to witness the magnificent spectacle of sunrise from the summit.

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Looking eastwards, the eye sweeps along an almost continuous line of mountains rising beyond the valleys of the Chikuma-gawa and Tenryu-gawa, the prominent summits in order from the l. being Asama-yama N.N.E., Tateshina N.E. by N., Yatsu-ga-take N.E. by E., Koma-ga-take E. by N., and, directly opposite, Shirane-ga-take, including its three summits Kaigane-san, Aino-take, and Nodori-san. The sharp peak seen between Koma-ga-take and Kaigane-san is the summit of Ho-o-zan. To the S.E. rises a lofty, snow-streaked range with three conspicuous summits, the highest of which is called Akai-ishi. Another striking feature is the cone of Fuji, which towers up beyond a depression to the r. of Nodori-san.

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Looking westward, the view embraces a considerable portion of the great chain forming the boundary between the provinces of Shinshu and Hida, the most prominent summit being Ontake, bearing N. of W., to whose r., rising in succession to the N., are Norikura, Kasadake, Iwasu-ga-take, and Yari-ga-take. In the distance, the peaks of Tateyama are discernible beyond Yari-ga-take. Towards the W. the distant outline of Haku-san is visible, while in nearer proximity to the S. rises Ena-san in the province of Mino. There is also an extensive view over the province of Mikawa and a portion of Enshu, with several mountains, including the double summit of Horaiji-yama in the former province and Akiha-san in the latter. 11.

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HAKU-SAN. This celebrated mountain, standing on the borders of the four provinces of Echizen, Kaga, Hida, and Mino, is best ascended from Kanazawa, the capital of Kaga (see p. 229). The itinerary to Yumoto at the base is as follows: KANAZAWA (Ohashi) to: Tsurugi, 3 ri, 7 1/4 m.; Onnawara, 5 ri 29 cho, 14 1/4 m.; Ushikubi, 4 ri 4 cho, 10 m.; Yumoto, 5 ri, 12 1/4 m. Total, 17 ri 33 cho, 43 3/4 m. There is fair accommodation at all these places. The road is practicable for jinrikishas only as far as Tsurugi.

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From Ushikubi onwards the scenery is delightfully picturesque. Yumoto is completely shut in by densely wooded hills, and is deserted in winter by its inhabitants, who do not return till the beginning of June. The ascent and descent of the mountain make an easy day's expedition. The glorious view from the summit includes Tateyama N.E., Yari-ga-take E.N.E., Norikura a little to the S. of E., Yatsu-ga-take and the Koma-ga-take of Koshu in the dim distance, Ontake E.S.E., and the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu. In the immediate neighbourhood are Bessan on the S., and Onanji on the N., which, with the central and highest peak called Gozen-mine, together constitute the three summits of Haku-san.

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On the N.W. rises the lofty top of Shaka-ga-take. On the E. side is Tsurugi or 'the Sword,' so called from its pointed rocky peaks, and on the W. is the Oku-no-in. Two tarns lie at the bottom of what are apparently ancient craters. Haku-san may also be reached from Fukui in Echizen by the following itinerary, the route being practicable - just practicable - for jinrikishas as far as Katsuyama, but the accommodation all along the road wretched. On the other hand there is some fine wild scenery. Itinerary.

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FUKUI (Arahashi) to: Matsuoka, 2 ri 4 cho, 5 1/4 m.; Komyoji, 1 ri 22 cho, 3 3/4 m.; Katsuyama, 4 ri, 9 3/4 m.; Kogo, 2 ri 8 cho, 5 1/2 m.; Kotaro's Farm-house, 2 ri 32 cho, 7 m.; top of Kijikami Pass, 1 ri 18 cho, 3 3/4 m.; Mizutani, 2 ri, 5 m.; Yumoto, 1 ri 8 cho, 3 m. Total, 17 ri 20 cho, 42 3/4 m.

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