東海道

ROUTE 38. THE TOKAIDO BY RAIL FROM TOKYO TO KYOTO AND KOBE. WATERFALLS OF SANO. MIO-NO-MATSUBARA. FROM OKITSU TO SHIZUOKA via TEMPLES OF KUNO-ZAN. FROM KAKEGAWA TO AKIHA. Distance from Tokyo. Names of Stations. Remarks. Miles. TOKYO (Shimbashi). 3 1/4 Shinagawa. 6 Omori. 10 1/4 Kawasaki. 12 1/2 Tsurumi. 16 3/4 Kanagawa. 18 YOKOHAMA. 20 1/2 Hodogaya. 26 Totsuka. 29 1/2 OFUNA Jct., change for Kamakura and Yokosuka. 32 1/4 Fujisawa. 40 1/4 Hiratsuka, alight for ascent of Oyama (p. 61). 43 Oiso. 49 Kozu, alight for Miyanoshita, Hakone, and Atami. 55 Matsuda. 59 Yamakita. 64 Oyama. 71 Gotemba, alight for ascent of Fuji. 80 Sano. 86 Numazu. 96 Suzukawa. 101 Iwabuchi; travellers from the west alight for Fuji.

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At Iwabuchi alight for Kami-ide waterfalls (p. 121) and Minobu (p. 128). 104 Kambara. 110 Okitsu, excursion to Kuno-zan. 114 Ejiri. 120 SHIZUOKA. 128 Yaizu. 132 Fujieda. 137 Shimada. 140 Kanaya. 146 Hori-no-uchi. 150 Kakegawa, alight for Akiha. 156 Fukuroi. 161 Nakaizumi; travellers down the rapids of the Tenryu and bound east enter train here. 168 HAMAMATSU; Tenryu travellers for the west enter train here. 174 Maizaka. 180 Washizu. 190 Toyohashi. 196 Goyu. 201 Kamagori. 210 Okazaki. 220 Kariya. 223 Obu, change for Kamesaki, Handa, and Taketoyo. 228 Otaka. 231 Atsuta. 235 NAGOYA. 240 Kiyosu. 246 Ichinomiya. 249 Kisogawa. 254 GIFU. 263 Ogaki. 268 Tarui. 271 Seki-ga-hara. 278 Nagaoka.

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284 MAIBARA Jct., change for Nagahama and Tsuruga. 288 Hikone. 297 Notogawa. 302 Hachiman. 313 KUSATSU Jct., Kwansei Railway, see p. 245. 319 Baba (OTSU). 321 Otani. 324 1/2 Yamashina. 327 1/2 Inari. 329 KYOTO. 333 Mukomachi. 337 1/2 Yamazaki. 342 1/2 Takatsuki. 346 1/2 Ibaraki. 351 Suita. 359 OSAKA, alight for Nara and Sakai. 361 Kanzaki. 365 Nishinomiya. 370 Sumiyoshi. 375 Sannomiya. 376 KOBE. The word Tokaido signifies 'Eastern sea road.' The name was given to this road at an early date on account of its running along the sea-shore in an easterly direction from Kyoto, which, being the old

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historic capital, was naturally regarded as the starting-point. From the 17th century onwards, the Tokaido was traversed twice yearly by Daimyos coming with their gorgeous retinues to pay their respects to the Shogun at Yedo; and all the chief towns, here as on the other great highways of the Empire, were provided with honjin, that is, specially fine tea-houses, for their lordships to sleep at. The greater portion of the beautiful avenue of pine-trees with which the road was lined still exists, and can be seen occasionally from the windows of the railway carriage. The road itself is now comparatively deserted. "But what a scene it used to present!

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How crowded with pedestrians; with norimons (the palanquins of the upper crust), and attendants; with cangoes (the modest bamboo conveyance of the humble classes); with pack-horses, conveying merchandise of all kinds to and from the capital or to the busy towns and villages along the route; with the trains of daimiyos or of lesser gentry entitled to travel with a retinue; and with the commonalty, men, women and children, on foot, all with their dresses turned up for facility of movement, and for the most part taking the journey pretty easily; frequently stopping at the numberless tea-houses or resting sheds by the way, and refreshing themselves with the simple little cup of weak green tea, and a cheery chat with whomsoever might stop like themselves to rest.

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It used to seem that distance was no consideration with them. They could go on all day, and day after day, if only they were allowed (which they generally were) to take their own time and pace. The value of time never entered into their thoughts. The numerous trains of armed men passing in both directions were the most striking feature of the scene.

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Never could one go out of one's house in any direction, but these two-sworded men were met with; but on the Tokaido, and in the streets of Yedo, they appeared to be more numerous than the common people; and it must be understood that at this time of which I am speaking, the crowds on portions of the road and in all the principal thoroughfares of the capital, were as great as in the most crowded thoroughfares of London. It took one forcibly back to the feudal times in Europe: when no noble or landed proprietor thought of going abroad unattended by his armed dependants. Added to this, there was a certain air of antiquity that imparted its charm to the scene.

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The old Dutch writers described the road long ago, and it was even in their day precisely as it was in ours. A good, well macadamised, causeway, (except that the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of broken stones), passing through numerous populous villages, only divided from each other by short intervals, where fine old trees on both sides of the road were the sole division between the road and the paddy fields. The etiquette of the road was well and rigidly defined.

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When the trains of two princes met, it was incumbent on the lesser of them, measured by his income as recognised by the Government and published in the official list, to dismount from his norimon, if he happened to be riding in one, and draw with his followers to the side of the road whilst the other passed. Whenever it was possible, therefore, such meetings were avoided." This description is quoted from Black's Young Japan, Vol. I. p. 163, et seq. The railway was begun in 1872 and finished in 1889.

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Travellers with time on hand are advised to break the journey at Kozu, in order to visit Miyanoshita and Hakone; at Okitsu, in order to visit Kuno-zan on the way between that station and Shizuoka; at Shizuoka itself; and at Nagoya. Of these places, three, viz. Miyanoshita, Shizuoka, and Nagoya, have hotels in foreign style. Those who are hurried may console themselves for missing these interesting places by the knowledge that the scenery through which they are to pass has many charms, including superb views of Fuji from both the land and the sea side. The least interesting portion of the line is that between Shizuoka and Nagoya, a six hours' run which may without disadvantage be performed after dark.

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The first hour of the journey, that between Tokyo and Yokohama, having been already described in Route 3, calls for no further remark. The train runs into Yokohama station to pick up passengers for the West, and runs out again for a few minutes over the same ground, but soon diverges to the left. Fujisawa (Inns, Inage-ya and Wakamatsu-ya at station) is famed for its Buddhist temple of Yugyo-dera, in the miraculous healing powers of whose abbots extraordinary faith is placed by the lower orders of the surrounding country-side. Unfortunately a fire destroyed the greater portion of the buildings in December, 1880.

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Should the intention of restoring them to their original splendour be carried out, they will well merit a visit. The site lies some 8 cho from the railway station. After passing Fujisawa, the Hakone range, behind which towers the cone of Fuji, begins to come in sight right. Soon afterwards the line crosses the broad stony bed of the River Banyu, which rises in Lake Yamanaka on the N.E. flank of Fuji. Oiso is a favourite bathing resort; see p. 62. At Kozu (Inn, Hayano), the line turns inland up the valley of the Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid the Hakone mountains which effectually bar the way to all but foot-passengers.

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The scenery now becomes mountainous, with to the left the chief peaks of the Hakone range, Futago-yama (the 'Twin Mountain,' so-called from its double rounded summit), Myojin-ga-take, Kammuri-ga-take, and Kintoki-zan (horn-shaped). An extra engine is put on at Yamakita to help the train up to Gotemba, the highest point on the line, 1,500 ft. above sea level. Between Yamakita and Oyama (not to be mistaken for the mountain Oyama, with a long O), the scenery is wildly picturesque, and there is a rapid succession of tunnels and bridges, testifying to the engineering difficulties that had to be overcome. At Gotemba (Inns, Yoshijima-ya at station, and Omiya in the vill.

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12 cho distant), the passenger finds himself in the broad and fertile plain surrounding Fuji's base, a plain whose soil indeed has been formed by the volcanic outpourings of the great mountain during countless ages. The long-ridged wooded mountain immediately to the left of Fuji is Ashitaka. The range to the spectator's left from the carriage window is the Hakone range, the lowest point of which visible from here is the Otome-toge pass leading over to Miyanoshita. At Sano, the waterfalls (Sano no taki), 12 cho from this station by jinrikisha, make a charming picnic resort, there being a tea-house with arbours scattered about. The water forming the falls comes from Lake Hakone via the tunnel mentioned on p. 107.

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Keigashima, 17 cho beyond the Sano waterfalls, is another picturesque spot, remarkable for its curious rocks and possessing a deserted shrine suitable for a picnic. The railway turns west, where one still has Fuji and Ashitaka to the right; the other mountains, from right to left, are Amagi-san in Izu, Yahazu-yama (a small peak), Higane-san on the other side of which lies Atami, the Hakone range, and in front, isolated as if let drop independently into the plain, Kanoki-yama. The railway rejoins the old Tokaido at Numazu (Inn, Moto-doiya). There is much marshy ground in this neighbourhood, whence probably the name of the place (numa = marsh). Suzukawa (Inn, Koshu-ya) and Iwabuchi (Inn, Tani-ya).

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Travellers from the Kyoto direction intending to ascend Fuji can alight at either of these stations, it being 3 ri from either to Omiya. One goes from Suzukawa to Omiya by tram in 1 1/2 hr., passing through the town of Yoshiwara; from Iwabuchi to Omiya by jinrikisha. Most persons prefer the tram, as cheaper and more expeditious. The Wataya inn at Omiya is well-spoken of. From Omiya it is a 2 1/2 ri walk, mostly uphill, to Murayama, where the actual ascent of Fuji commences; see p. 117. Iwabuchi is also the starting-

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point for the beautiful waterfalls of Kami-ide on the W. side of Fuji (see p. 121), 5 1/2 ri, passing through Omiya. Suzukawa is the starting-point for the temples of Minobu, 13 ri, and for Kofu, 24 ri, see p. 128. It is about Suzukawa that the nearest and most perfect view of Fuji is obtained. Nowhere else does the 'peerless mountain' so absolutely dominate its surroundings. The beauty of the stretch of shore from here to the mouth of the Fujikawa, called Tago-no-ura, has been sung by a hundred Japanese poets. The Fujikawa is noted for its rapids (see p. 135).

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From here to Okitsu is very beautiful, the space between the sea and a range of hills to the right becoming so narrow as barely to leave room for the line to skirt the shore. Okitsu (Inns, Minakuchi-ya, Kaisui-ro; the former is semi-foreign, the latter has arrangements for sea-bathing) has a lovely view of the Bay of Suruga, the large mountainous peninsula of Izu, and to the right the point of land called Mio-no-Matsubara, celebrated both in poetry and in art. It is covered with pine-trees, is low and sandy, and hence more pleasant to look at than to walk on. Still further to the right lie the Kuno-zan hills, with the white little sea-port town of Shimizu nestling at their base.

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At Mio-no-Matsubara is laid the scene of Ha-goromo, or The Robe of Feathers, one of the prettiest and most fanciful of the Japanese Lyric Dramas (No no utai). A fisherman landing on this strand finds a robe of feathers hanging to a pine-tree, and is about to carry it off as treasure trove, when a beautiful fairy suddenly appears and implores him to give it back to her; for that it is hers, and without it she cannot fly home to the Moon, where she is one of the attendants on the thirty monarchs who rule that sphere. At first the fisherman refuses to grant her request. He only does so when, after many tears and agonies of despair, she promises to dance for him one of the dances known only to the immortals.

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Draped in her feathery robe, she dances beneath the pine-trees on the beach, while celestial music and an unearthly fragrance fill the air. At last her wings are caught by the breeze, and she soars heavenward, past Mount Ashitaka, past Fuji, till she is lost to view. There is still a small shrine on Mio-no-Matsubara dedicated to this fairy. The temple of Seikenji or Kiyomi-dera at Okitsu, belonging to the Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a visit, partly for the sake of the view, partly for the temple itself and the temple grounds, which even the railway, though it cuts through them, has not entirely spoilt.

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The very plain altar in the hondo, a large hall paved with tiles, contains the funeral tablets of all the Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty. In a side temple are forty brilliantly coloured figures, three-fourths life-size, of Rakan, old, but restored in 1881. These were formerly kept in a tea-house in the town, which, becoming a favourite resort, brought in a considerable income to the priests. This, however, moved the towns-people to jealousy and dissatisfaction, for which reason the images were moved to their present site where money can no longer be made out of them. In the grounds are 300 (formerly 500) stone images of Rakan.

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The creeping plum-trees (gwaryu-bai) in front of the temple are said to have been planted by Ieyasu's own hand. Besides the temple proper, a suite of rooms is shown, affording an example of the best style of Japanese domestic architecture. Built in 1865 for the use of the Shogun Iemochi, they have of late been twice occupied by His Imperial Highness, the Crown Prince. Those who have an extra day to spare are strongly recommended to leave the train at Okitsu, sleep there, and go on by jinrikisha to Kuno-zan, rejoining the train at Shizuoka late the next afternoon. This excursion, which occupies from

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7 to 8 hrs., is a real multum in parvo, splendid views, superb temples, nearer acquaintance with Japanese town and country life off the beaten track. The plan is to take a jinrikisha for the day with two men, and begin by visiting Seikenji, described above; thence through Ejiri (Inn, Kyo-ya), one of those smaller Tokaido towns which the railway has paralysed, and Shimizu, a neat bustling sea-port town; and then strike inland to Tesshuji, a ruined temple on a little hill called Fudaraku-san, 4 cho in height.

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Yamaoka Tetsutaro, writing-master to the present Mikado, collected funds for the restoration of this place; but the money was squandered after his death, and the temple is nothing; but the view simply magnificent, reminding one of a Claude Lorraine. At the beholder's feet stretches a green carpet of rice-fields, with the town of Shimizu and the curious square enclosures in the adjacent sea, used as fish preserves to supply the tables of the inhabitants in stormy weather. The two promontories to the left are the Satta-toge and the point near Kambara, beyond which come Fuji, Ashitaka, and the Hakone range.

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The large peninsula of Izu extends the whole way round from left to right, like a gigantic scythe forming the Gulf of Suruga, while much closer and smaller, making a bay within a bay, stretches the pine-clad promontory of Mio-no-Matsubara, which is from here seen to divide at the tip into three points like claws. Close to Tesshuji is another temple called Ryugeji, noted in the vicinity for its sotetsu (Cycas revoluta) and prickly pears, the latter a great rarity in Japan; but the view, though good, is not comparable to that from Tesshuji.

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The way now leads back to the sea and along the sandy shore to the hamlet of Nekoya (Inn, Fukushima-ya) at the foot of Kuno-zan, one of a range of hills only some 500 ft. high, but fortress-like in steepness. Here was the first burial-place of the great Shogun Ieyasu, and the shrines here erected in his honour were the originals of which those at Nikko are but a more elaborate development. Travellers who are unable to go to Nikko can therefore gather some idea of what the Nikko temples are like by visiting Kuno-zan. According to some, Ieyasu's body still lies here, only a single hair or some other minute portion having been transported to Nikko.

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The ascent to the temples is by a steep zigzag path cut in the living rock. A guide must be applied for at the shamusho, or 'temple office' near the top, on the left. The view over the sea from this temple office is glorious. The headlands seen hence are Tome-no-saki, Kanaya, and Omae-zaki. The temples, though 'purified' to some extent by the pro-Shinto party 20 years ago, retain their Buddhist ornamentation. The wooden effigy of a sacred horse left is by Hidari Jingoro. Up a flight of steps hence, we come right to the drum-tower, and left to the site of the five-storied pagoda removed by the 'purifiers' as savouring too much of Buddhism.

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Above these again are right, the Kagura stage, the treasure-house or 'godown,' and a building formerly dedicated to the Buddhist god Yakushi, and now to the Shinto god Oyamagui-no-Mikoto; while left is the building where the sacred offer-

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ings are prepared. The oratory proper is red outside, black and gold within. Round it, inside, are hung pictures of the Thirty-six Poetical Geniuses, and there is an elaborate bordering of phoenixes and chrysanthemums. A final flight of steps behind the oratory leads up to the stone tomb, which is an octagonal monolith. The annual festival at Kuno-zan is held on the 17th April. Services are also celebrated on the 17th of the other months. The temple treasures are exposed to view in October, when the annual airing (mushi-boshi) takes place. On leaving Kuno-zan, the road first follows the seashore and then turns inland, reaching Shizuoka in about 1 hr.

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Between Okitsu and Ejiri (Inn, Kyo-ya), there is a view of Mio-no-Matsubara. After leaving Ejiri, the line turns inland to avoid the Kuno-zan hills. Shizuoka (Hotels, *Daito-kwan, foreign style; Kiyo-kwan), formerly called Sumpu, is the capital of the prefecture of the same name and of the province of Suruga. It is a clean, airy, flourishing city, noted for its manufactures of cheap lacquer ware, delicate basket-work in curious and beautiful shapes, and fine bamboo plaiting used to cover egg-shell porcelain cups which are brought from the province of Mino. The tea produced at Ashikubo, a vill. 2 ri distant, ranks second only to that of Uji.

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Historically, Shizuoka is celebrated chiefly as the place where Ieyasu chose to spend the evening of his life in learned leisure, leaving his son, Hidetada, to carry on the government at Yedo. Here for the first time many of the treasures of Japanese literature, which had hitherto existed only in manuscript, were put into print. Shizuoka is now the place of retirement of the ex-Shogun Keiki, who lives there in quiet seclusion as a private gentleman. An afternoon is enough for the sights of Shizuoka, which consist of the ruins of the former castle, and of two fine temples, Rinzai-ji and Sengen. All that remains of the Castle are the decaying walls and the moats.

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Within its enclosure stands the Prefecture, a hideous red brick building. The Court-house and Normal School are outside the moat, on the S. side. The Buddhist temple of Rinzai-ji lies 8 cho away from the city to the W., at the foot of a range of wooded hills. It belongs to the Zen sect, and is noted for its connection with Ieyasu and for the number of objects of art which it contains. The little room of only 4 1/2 mats (yo-jo-han), where Ieyasu learnt how to write, is shown, as are several scrolls, screens, pieces of lacquer and porcelain, etc., presented by him to the temple in his old age. There is also a threadbare but still beautiful piece of embroidery presented by the Mikado Go-Nara (A.D.

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1527-1557), and a number of kakemono by Kano Masanobu, Chin Nampin, and other old masters. In the hondo is a painted statue of Imagawa Yoshimoto, younger brother to Ujiteru, founder of the temple. Another painted statue represents the 2nd abbot. The honzon is Amida, a black image with a gold background. In a side chapel is preserved the wooden image of Marishi-ten, which Ieyasu, who for all his political and military genius, was not devoid of the superstitions of his time, used constantly to carry about with him as a charm.

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The visitor will also be shown a small pagoda-shaped gilt revolving book-case containing a complete set of the edition of the Buddhist scriptures, printed for the first time with movable types in 1888. The 1st and 2nd October are the chief festival days at Rinzai-ji. The Temple of Sengen, which stands at the N. limit of the town, was built under the superintendence

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of Okubo Hikozaemon, a personage famous in Japanese history as the minister and confidant of the Shogun Iemitsu. Though chiefly dedicated to the worship of Ko-no-hana-saku-ya-hime, alias Sengen, the beautiful Shinto goddess of Mount Fuji, it is constructed and decorated in the most ornate Buddhist style. Specially noteworthy are the wood-carvings. The grounds are now used as a public park. Entering by two handsomely carved wooden gates, the visitor finds himself in a large quadrangle, in the centre of which is a stage formerly used for the performance of kagura dances by young girls.

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The interior of the oratory proper (go haiden no o-biroma) is a hall 63 ft. by 33 ft. with large solid pillars of keyaki lacquered red, two of which form at the same time the corner pillars of the upper storey. The two central compartments of the ceiling are painted with dragons, one called the Shiho no Ryo, or 'Dragon of the Four Quarters,' because whatever quarter of the compass he be viewed from he seems to glare down directly at the spectator; the other, Happo no Ryo, or 'Dragon of the Eight Quarters,' because his glance is directed to every point of the circle. The former of these is by Yusen Hogan, the latter by Kano Motonobu.

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Eight other compartments contain pictures of angels playing on musical instruments, also by painters of the Kano school. Two broad flights of steps behind the oratory lead up to a building containing two chapels, one dedicated to Sengen, the other to Onamuji. The two chapels are connected by a room in which a nightly watch was formerly kept by retainers of the Tokugawa family. Specially noticeable are the carvings on the gates leading to these twin chapels. One set represents a lioness with her cub, and on a second panel her royal mate, both surrounded by peonies, the king of flowers, as the lion is the king of beasts. Another set represents hawks with pine-trees.

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Round the chapel itself are carvings of the pine-tree, bamboo, and plum-blossom by Hidari Jingoro. The crest of a fan of feathers is that of the goblin who was god of Mount Oyama and father of the goddess of Fuji. Near the main quadrangle is a smaller building called the Sosha, formerly dedicated to Marishi-ten and now to the Shinto god Yachi-hoko-no-kami. It is the newest of all the buildings, and the decorations are therefore in a better state of preservation. In the curved roof of the porch a phoenix carved out of a single block of wood is very fine; and all round, above the architrave, runs a series of delicate little groups representing the Twenty-four Paragons of Filial Piety.

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The stone lanterns in the grounds were presented by various Daimyos and Hatamotos. Beyond the Marishi-ten temple, a broad flight of 105 stone steps leads up to the Oku-no-in, or innermost shrine, the chief thing to be seen whence is a good view of the town. The best excursion from Shizuoka is that by jinrikisha to Kuno-zan (3 ri); see pp. 260-2. On leaving Shizuoka, we enter on the least interesting portion of the Tokaido route, there being little worth describing the whole way on to Nagoya, a distance of 115 miles.

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The line for the most part ceases to skirt the sea, and runs over a flat country with low hills on one or both sides, or else among rice fields which seem interminable, especially after entering the province of Owari. Spurs of the central range forming the backbone of the country are indeed often seen far away to the right. At other times the way lies through cuttings, or be-

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tween clumps of bamboos and other small trees that shut out all distant view. The chief points of this 115 m. run are as follows: Just outside Shizuoka we cross the Abekawa close to its mouth, and obtain a pretty glimpse of the sea with the small promontory of Kuno-zan and the large promontory of Izu, before passing through two long tunnels. The Oigawa is crossed before reaching Kanaya. Like all the rivers on this coast, it has a bed out of proportion to the small volume of water that generally flows down it, the bed being nearly a mile broad, while the actual stream is not more than some 50 yds. except in flood-time.

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In pre-railway days, the passage of the Oigawa was one of the most exciting portions of the journey along the Tokaido. No ferry-boats could be used on account of the swiftness of the current, and travellers were carried across on small hand-platforms called rendai. The naked coolies who bore these aloft always chose the deepest parts of the stream, in order to impress their fares with a sense of the peril of the undertaking, and thus obtain the largest possible pourboire. Kakegawa is not remarkable except for being the station where those must alight who desire to visit the Temple of Akiha, some 12 ri inland, of which the first 6 ri as far as the vill. of Mikura are practicable for jinrikishas.

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The visitor may conveniently sleep at Sakashita, some 4 1/2 ri further on, at the base of the mountain on which the temple stands. The ascent, locally computed at 50 cho, is probably less. The last part of it commands an extensive and beautiful view, including the wide plain of Totomi with the sea beyond, towards which the broad white bed of the river Tenryu is seen winding its way. The temple of Akiha enjoys a great reputation for sanctity, and is visited annually by crowds of pilgrims.

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Unfortunately for the tourist of artistic and antiquarian tastes, all the beautiful Buddhist buildings in which Kwannon and other deities had for centuries been invoked, were destroyed by fire on the occasion of the great yearly festival in 1875, and the present temple was afterwards erected in the bare, uninteresting style of 'Pure Shinto.' It has been dedicated to Kagutsuchi-no-Mikoto, who is regarded by some as the God of Fire, but is more correctly explained as the God of Summer Heat. Before reaching Hamamatsu the train crosses the Tenryu-gawa, whose celebrated rapids form the subject of Route 35.

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The Tenryu is the first of the three great rivers from which the province of Mikawa, which the line here traverses, takes its name, the other two being the Ogawa (also called Oyagawa or Ohira-gawa) on this side of the station of Okazaki, and the Yahagi-gawa just beyond the same station. Hamamatsu (Inns, *Hana-ya, Ogome-ya) is the only place between Shizuoka and Nagoya where the journey can comfortably be broken. The town, which is clean and bustling, derives a peculiar appearance from the use of long projecting eaves which cause the houses to look as if about to tumble forward into the street.

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A few moments may be devoted to inspecting the temples of Gosha Myojin and Suwa Myojin, which even in their present abandonment and decay show plainly to the discerning eye of the artist that they were once among the most elaborate specimens of decorative art in Japan. A whole day could well be spent in sailing about the Lagoon (Hamana no Mizu-umi) just beyond Hamamatsu, of whose beauties the railway affords only a passing glimpse, and in watching the fishermen's curious device whereby the tinkling of a bell indicates the presence of fish in their nets. One might lunch at the vill. of Shinjo on the further shore.

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The railway crosses the mouth of the lagoon on a long series of dykes and bridges, whence the roar of the breakers of the Pacific can be distinctly heard. Though called a lake in Japanese, this lagoon has now a narrow entrance about

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600 yds. across, formed in the year 1499, when an earthquake broke down the sandspit that had previously separated the fresh water from the sea. The province of Totomi derives its name from this lake, which was called Tot-su-awa-umi, 'the distant foaming sea,' in contradistinction to Lake Biwa, named Chika-tsu-awa-umi, 'the near foaming sea,' which gave its name to the province of Omi. Between Washizu and Toyohashi a fine bronze image of Kwannon, 10 ft. high and dating from the year 1765, is seen perched right on a pinnacle of rock.

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Between Goyu, where the line again touches the shore, and Kamagori there is a pretty view of the sea, of the islets in the Bay of Toyohashi, and of the mountains of the provinces of Shima, Ise, and Iga beyond. An endless succession of rice-fields leads to Nagoya (Inns, Shinachu, also called Hotel du Progres, foreign; *Shuki-ro). This flourishing commercial city, the largest on the Tokaido, capital of the Province of Owari and of the prefecture of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the Princes of Owari, whose family was closely allied to that of the Tokugawa, Shoguns, the founder of the house of Owari having been a son of Ieyasu.

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Their fief was rated at 550,000 koku of rice, and the Owari's were one of the 'Three August Families' (Go San-ke), entitled to furnish a successor to the Shogun's throne in default of an heir. Their castle, which is still one of the wonders of Japan, was erected in 1610 by twenty great feudal lords, to serve as the residence of Ieyasu's son.

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In the early years of the present regime it was handed over to the Military Department; and the beautiful decorations of the Prince's dwelling apartments suffered, as did so much else in Japan, from the almost incredible vandalism and vulgar stupidity of that period, common soldiers, or officers as ignorant as they, being allowed to deface the priceless wall-paintings of a Tan-yu, a Motonobu, and a Matahei. This desecration is now happily put an end to, though much irreparable damage has been done. The Castle is indeed still the headquarters of the Nagoya Garrison; but the barracks now only occupy the outer enceinte, the actual citadel and the apartments being kept as national monuments and show-places.

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The two golden dolphins (kin no shachi-hoko), which can be seen glittering all over the city from the top of the five-storeyed donjon (tenshu), were made in 1610 at the cost of the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomasa, who also built the keep. One of them was sent to the Vienna Exhibition of 1873, and on its way back was wrecked in the Messageries Maritimes Steamer Nil. Having been recovered with great difficulty, it was finally restored to its original position, much to the satisfaction of the citizens. The golden dolphins measure 8.7 ft. in height, and are valued at $180,000. Nagoya is noted for its manufacture of porcelain, cloisonne, and fans. The principal dealers are: Porcelain, Matsumura, Hirakoya, Takito.

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Cloisonne, Morimoto, Honda, Takeuchi. Fans, Daikoku-ya. Silk-mercers, Ito, Daimaru. There are many lesser but good shops for all the above articles; also several bazaars (kwankoba) for articles of general utility. Five or six large cotton-mills have been started of late years, and the embroidering of handkerchiefs has taken a considerable place among the local industries. Theatre: Suehiro-za. The Museum contains a collection of the various manufactures of the prefecture.

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It is worth stopping a day at Nagoya for the sake of the Castle, which cannot be 'done' merely between trains, as the traveller's passport and visiting card must be sent through the hotel to the Prefectural Office, and several hours may elapse before the necessary permit is received. Meantime one may visit Nagoya's second greatest sight, the Higashi Hongwanji Temple, the Museum, and the minor temples described below. The evening may be agreeably whiled away by going the round of the bazaars, and by visiting the enclosure of Shimpukuji (commonly known as Osu Kwannon), where devout religious exercises and penny peep-shows may be seen in amusing proximity. The Castle (O Shiro).

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The space between the inner and outer moats, now containing extensive barracks and parade-grounds, was formerly

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occupied by quarters for the Prince's samurai or retainers, offices civil and military, etc. Passing into the inner enclosure over a moat now dry and used to keep tame deer in, the traveller is first shown through the Apartments, a beautiful wreck, for mats and furniture are gone and the walls are considerably defaced, but very fine nevertheless. The sliding screens (fusuma) between the rooms, the alcoves (tokonoma), and the wooden doors between the different sets of Apartments are all decorated with paintings of flowers, birds, etc., chiefly by artists of the Kano school, such as Eishin, Motonobu, and Tan-yu. One room has cherry-blossoms and pheasants by Tosa-no-Mitsuoki.

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Another, the most attractive of all, has multitudinous scenes of popular life by Ukiyo Matahei. One specially gorgeous apartment, decorated by Tan-yu with ideal Chinese scenery, was reserved for the use of the Shogun when he came to visit the Prince his kinsman. Observe the difference of height between the inner and outer portion of this room, the former (jodan) being for the Shogun himself, the latter (gedan) for those inferior persons who were graciously admitted to an audience. The ramma (ventilating panels) of this room have exquisitely faithful carvings of a crane and tortoise and of a cock perched on a drum, by Hidari Jingoro, who also carved the flowers and birds in certain other rooms.

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Leaving these apartments, one comes to a much humbler suite brought from Nobunaga's castle at Kiyosu, and is then led into the donjon or keep, a gloomy five-storied building, all of stone without, but furnished with wooden staircases within. The well at the bottom, called Ogon-sui, or 'the Golden Water,' was dug by Kato Kiyomasa. The fifth storey commands an extensive view, the town of course, the sea, the immense plain of Owari and Mino laid out in rice-fields, and, limiting the horizon, the mountains of Ise, Iga, Omi, Echizen, Hida, Shinshu, and Totomi. No fee is accepted by the custodian of the Castle. Higashi Hongwanji.

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This wonderful Buddhist temple, whose exterior and interior are both equally grand, dates in its actual shape from the beginning of the present century. In medieval times a castle occupied its site, whence the castle-like walls that still surround the enclosure. On the occasion of the combined military and naval manoeuvres at Nagoya in 1890, the apartments were occupied by H. M. the Mikado. The two storied gatehouse, a magnificent structure in wood, has three portals, decorated with floral arabesques in relief on the lintel and posts, and the gates have scrolls and open-work diapers, with solid bronze plates binding the framework together, the whole in excellent taste and style.

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On the further side of a spacious court rises the lofty main building, which looks two-storied, an effect produced by the exterior colonnade having a roof lower than that of the main structure. The interior measures 120 ft. in length by 108 ft. in depth, and is divided longitudinally into three parts, that in front being for the use of ordinary worshippers, the centre for the congregation on special occasions, and the innermost being the naijin, or chancel. This latter is divided into three compartments, the central one being occupied by the shumi-dan, a platform on which stands a handsome gilt shrine containing an image of Amida about 4 ft. high.

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Both the shumi-dan and the table in front are enriched with small painted carvings, producing a glorious effect. Left of the chief shrine is a smaller one, containing a portrait of the founder of the sect, taken from the effigy in the metropolitan temple at Kyoto. In the ranma along the front of the naijin are gilt open-work carvings of angels, with gilt carvings of the peacock and

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phoenix in the kaeru-mata above. The heavy beams of the ceiling are supported by excellent carvings of lotus-flowers and leaves. In some of the kaeru-mata over these beams are spirited carvings of conventional lions. The ceiling itself is unpainted, and divided into coffers about 3 ft. square. The compartments right and left of the altar have gilt coppered ceilings.

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In the kaeru-mata of the external colonnade are well-conceived groups of supernatural beings, Gama Sennin with his frog, Kinko riding on the carp, Koan on the tailed tortoise, O-Shiko riding on his crane, Kashinjin administering medicine to the dragon, the umbrella miraculously flying back to Shoichi through the air, and two carrying baskets of fish. The series is continued round the sides by the crane, the lion, and the flying dragon. As usual in Hongwanji temples, there is another building called the jiki-do, connected with the main building by a gallery resembling a bridge. Though much less elaborate than the main altar, the altar of the jiki-do is yet a fine blaze of gold.

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Right and left of the central image of Amida, are some charming gold sliding screens representing mountain scenery. The apartments of the temple contain several kakemonos and other works of art, which are, however, generally stowed away in a godown. In front of the main gate is an avenue of drooping cherry-trees (shidare-zakura), which are very pretty in April. The remaining temples of Nagoya are much inferior. The following may be mentioned: Eikokuji (close to the Higashi Hongwanji), in the courtyard of which is a stone with the imprint of Buddha's feet. They seem to have been in proportion to his stature, which legend fixes at 16 ft. On the soles are representations of the wheel of the Law, fishes, etc.

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Nishi Hongwanji, not to be compared with the Higashi Hongwanji for size and beauty. In the kaeru-mata above the altar are groups of the Four-and-Twenty Paragons of Filial Piety. Nanatsu-dera, the interior walls of which are gilt and decorated with good paintings of angels. The large bronze image on the verandah represents either Dainichi or Amida, which of the two is not quite certain. Osu Kwannon (properly Shimpukuji), already alluded to as a popular resort. In front of the altar screen are hung, for the use of worshippers, copies of a Buddhist scripture, the 26th chapter of the Myoho Renge Kyo, which recites the praises of the Goddess Kwannon.

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This temple possesses the famous manuscript of the Kojiki known to students of Japanese antiquity as the Shimpukuji-bon. Go Hyaku Rakan (properly Dairyuji). It is worth applying to the custodian for admittance to the gallery behind, where are kept five hundred images of Buddha's chief disciples, mostly about 2 ft. high, all brightly painted, and all different.

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Some are smiling, some are solemn, some are fierce, some stupid-looking, some have a supercilious air, some an air of smug self-satisfaction, some few are lying down, others are praying, others again have their arms extended in the attitude of benediction, one has three eyes, one holds a tiger-cub in his arms, others ride on horses, elephants, phoenixes, and so on almost ad infinitum. No wonder the Japanese say that among the Five Hundred Rakan, every spectator can find the likeness of his own father by dint of a little searching.

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Nagoya, like most other large towns, possesses a number of new, uninteresting buildings in the style or no style known in the Japan of to-day as 'foreign.' Such are the Prefectural Office, the Post and Telegraph Office, the Hospital, the Normal School, the Court Houses, etc.

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The only excursion to be recommended in the neighbourhood of Nagoya is to the potteries of Seto between 5 and 6 ri distant. See Route 36. From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the railway line deserts the old Tokaido, and, though called the Tokaido Railway, really follows the Nakasendo. Quitting Nagoya, the train wends on through more and ever more rice-fields, with blue mountains far ahead, somewhat to the left. They are the mountains dividing the provinces of Owari and Mino from those of Omi and Ise. Fourteen miles out of Nagoya, the line crosses the Kisogawa, the river whose upper course forms so beautiful a portion of the Nakasendo, and which is picturesque even here near its mouth.

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Gifu (Inns, *Tamai-ya, Tsunokuni-ya) is an important place, and capital of the prefecture of the same name, which includes the two provinces of Mino and Hida. On a conical hill named Inaba-yama, E. of the town, stand the remains of a castle built by the great warrior Ota Nobunaga. Raw silk and the silk of the wild silkworm are produced in large quantities in the neighbourhood, most of it being woven into crape. In this the glittering threads of the wild silk, which takes the dye in a less degree than that of the ordinary silkworm, are introduced to form the pattern. The mon-chirimen woven in this manner is a very handsome fabric.

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In the summer-time it may be worth staying over a night at Gifu, in order to see an extremely curious method of fishing with the help of cormorants on the River Nagara. The traveller is referred for a description of this to the article entitled Cormorant Fishing in Things Japanese. On nearing Ogaki (Inns, Kyomaru-ya near the station; Tama-ya), the castle of the former Daimyo, with one turret in fairly good preservation, is seen left of the line. An expedition may be made from Ogaki to the waterfall of Yoro-ga-taki, 70 ft. high, distant 3 ri among the hills. Close to it fossil ferns are found. The cascade can also be approached from either of the next two stations, Tarui and Seki-ga-hara.

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Here the long, weary journey across the plain terminates, and the Tokaido Railway again enters diversified scenery, as it plunges among the hills that enclose beautiful Lake Biwa. Seki-ga-hara takes its name, which means literally 'Moor of the Barrier,' from the barrier of Fuwa (Fuwa no seki) established at this spot in A.D. 673 by the Emperor Temmu, it having been a Japanese custom from the earliest period down to the beginning of the present reign to hamper free communication throughout the country by means of barriers near the capital, which none might pass without a special permit.

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Seki-ga-hara is celebrated in Japanese history as the scene of a decisive battle fought in the year 1600 between Ieyasu and Hideyori, son of the great Hideyoshi, in which Ieyasu triumphed. His camp at Seki-ga-hara was on a level piece of ground among the hills on the left side of the road, near a hamlet called Nogami-mura. Between Seki-ga-hara and Nagaoka the gradient is steep, the line being led up a narrow valley opening out on a small plain devoted to the cultivation of the mulberry-tree.

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The tall bare mountain frequently seen looming up to the right during this portion of the journey is Ibuki-yama (about 4,300 ft.), one of the 'Seven High Mountains' of Central Japan, and noted in the early Japanese pharmacopoeia for its wealth of medicinal plants. The 'Seven High Mountains' are Hieizan, Hira-yama in Omi, Ibuki-yama, Kimpu-zan (or Omine) near Yoshino, Atago-san in Yamashiro, Tonomine, and Kazuraki-yama.

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Passing among pretty, pine-clad hills we reach Maibara (Inn, Itsutsu-ya at the station), whence all the way on to Baba, the station for the important town of Otsu, the line runs along the basin of Lake Biwa, though unfortunately not near enough to the shore to allow of many glimpses of the lake being obtained. The

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whole scenery is, however, pretty, and pretty in a way of its own. Quite close, to the left, is the range of hills forming the Southern rim of the Lake Biwa basin; far away to the right, in the dim distance, are the blue mountains enclosing the lake on the N., while immediately on either side of the line, is a fair cultivated plain. At Hikone (Inns, Raku-raku-tei, Matsu-ya) the former Daimyo's castle is seen right on a wooded hill. Before reaching Notogawa, the rivers Serigawa, Inukami-gawa, and Echigawa are crossed. The cone of Mikami-yama, also called Mukade-yama, shaped like Fuji but thickly wooded, begins to peep up from behind a nearer range of hills before reaching Kusatsu.

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Between this place and Baba, the most striking view on the whole Tokaido W. of Shizuoka is obtained on crossing the long bridge that spans the Setagawa, the lake opening out beautifully for a few minutes. From Baba or Otsu (Inn, Minarai-tei, foreign style), the line passes through a tunnel under Osaka-yama (nothing to do with the city of Osaka), before reaching the small station of Otani, where it emerges on a narrow valley. The hills are covered with that thick growth of pine-trees which is characteristic of all the country round about Kyoto. For further details concerning the portion of the Tokaido Route lying between Maibara and Otani, see Route 44, entitled Lake Biwa.

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Passing through the stations of Yamashina and Inari, the train enters the old capital, Kyoto, fully described in Route 43, after which it crosses a wide plain and passes through several minor stations before reaching the great commercial town of Osaka, described in Route 42. From Osaka onwards, the hills in the distance to the right begin to draw in, the broad fruitful plain rapidly contracts until it becomes a mere strip fringing the sea-shore, and at the station of Nishinomiya there begins to rise right the screen of somewhat barren hills that help to give Kobe its good climate by protecting that part of the coast from wintry blasts.

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The high land seen in the distance across the water is not, as might be supposed, an island, but a portion of the province of Izumi. The three tunnels passed through on this section of the journey are remarkable as going under river-beds. Owing to the proximity of the neighbouring mountains to the sea, quantities of sand and stones are swept down whenever the streams are swollen by rain. As a consequence of this, the river-beds tend constantly to raise themselves more and more above the general level of the country, which they traverse like dykes. Occasionally of course a dyke breaks down, and then there is an inundation with attendant loss of life and property.

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Soon after passing through Sumiyoshi, an insignificant place not to be confounded with the well-known Sumiyoshi near Sakai, the train runs in to Sannomiya, and the long journey is at an end, Sannomiya being the station for the foreign settlement of Kobe. To go on one station further to what is technically called Kobe, would carry the traveller past his destination into the native town. It must therefore be distinctly borne in mind that if bound for Kobe, one must book only as far as Sannomiya. For Kobe and Neighbourhood, see Route 41.

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