長崎近郊の小旅行

ROUTE 55. EXCURSIONS FROM NAGASAKI. 1. THE TAKASHIMA, NAKA-NO-SHIMA, AND HASHIMA COAL MINES. 2. NAGASAKI TO SASEBO. 3. FROM NAGASAKI TO SHIMABARA viâ OBAMA AND ONSEN (UNZEN); WALKS NEAR ONSEN; ASCENT OF FUGEN-DAKE. 4. NAGASAKI TO SHIMABARA viâ ISAHAYA AND AITSU. 5. THE BATHS OF URESHINO AND TAKEO.

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1.—THE TAKASHIMA COAL MINES. The island of Takashima, in which are situated the Takashima coal mines, lies about 8 m. S.W. of the entrance to the harbour of Nagasaki, and Naka-no-shima and Hashima about 1 m. further. Takashima is only some 250 acres in extent. Until 300 years ago it was totally uninhabited. The first people to occupy the island were a guard of five officers, placed there by the Prince of Hizen to prevent foreigners from landing. The mine was first worked by the Japanese 150 years ago. In 1867, the Prince of Hizen, in partnership with Messrs.

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Glover and Co. of Nagasaki, largely developed the resources of the mine by the introduction of machinery and European methods of mining. The workings have since then been extended, until the Takashima colliery has probably become the largest in Asia. It has been in the hands of the enterprising Mitsubishi Company since April 1881.

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All the mines extend for a great distance under the sea; and from recent discoveries, it is believed that a large field of untouched coal still exists, and that the Takashima mine as well as those on the adjacent islands of Naka-no-shima and Hashima will yield large supplies for many years to come. The mine affords employment to over 3,000 persons. The total yield of Takashima and Naka-no-shima for 1888 was 445,000 tons, and for all the coal-mines in Japan during the same period, 2,076,743 tons. The highest point of the island commands an extensive view for a distance of 80 m. seaward, comprising the whole group of the Gotō Islands.

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A tug-boat belonging to the colliery company runs between Nagasaki and Takashima twice daily, and permission for a passage can be obtained by applying at the Company's office in Nagasaki.

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2.—FROM NAGASAKI TO SASEBO. A small steamer leaves Nagasaki twice a week for Sasebo at about 9 A.M. Just outside the entrance of the harbour, the island of Pappenberg is on the right. The course then lies N.W. almost within a stone's throw of the shore. A large rock hollowed out by the waves into a natural arch of colossal proportions appears on the l. about 1 hr. later, as does also the island of Ikeshima. At about noon the steamer enters a small bight where the Seto Straits, about 30 yds. wide and very picturesque, come in view and suddenly reveal another way out.

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After clearing the straits, the course still lies along the shore, till the steamer enters a large bay in which the harbour of Sasebo, similar in size and appearance to that of Nagasaki, is situated. At the upper end of the harbour are the brick buildings of the Naval Station, the most imposing structures of their kind in Kyūshū. The steamer arrives at Sasebo (Inn, Harima-ya) at about 5 p.m. To make the round journey returning viâ Haiki and Tokitsu, for which 2 days are sufficient, see p. 383.

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3.—FROM NAGASAKI TO SHIMABARA viâ OBAMA AND ONSEN (UNZEN). ASCENT OF FUGEN-DAKE. This excursion can easily be made in 3 days. It would be possible, provided an early start were made from Nagasaki, and the wind were fair for the passage to Obama, to reach Shimabara in 1 day; but travellers are recommended to pass the first night at the hot-springs of Onsen. A steamer plies in summer between Mogi and Obama (see p. 382), but it is not to be relied on. It leaves about noon. Sailing boats are usually taken from Aba for the passage to Obama. [The best way of reaching Onsen, should the weather be too rough for sailing, is by road viâ Aitsu and Obama. The route as far as Aitsu is the same as that given on p. 389.

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The roads are fairly good throughout. The ascent is easy but steady from Aitsu to a high ridge overlooking Chijiwa Bay; from this a broad road descends to the shore, commanding views of exquisite scenery. The roots of the fir-trees at Chijiwa, standing out above the sand, present an extraordinary appearance. In returning to Nagasaki by road, the traveller should by all means descend from Onsen to Chijiwa, 3 ri, for the sake of the magnificent views on the way.] Itinerary. NAGASAKI to: Himi 2 ri 18 chō 6 m.; Aba 10 chō 3/4 m.; Obama (by boat) 7 ri 17 m.; Onsen 3 ri 7 1/2 m.; Shimabara 5 ri 12 m.; Total 17 ri 28 chō 43 1/4 m.

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Jinrikishas with two men should be taken to Aba. Time may be saved by sending ahead to have a boat ready. The charge for a private boat, when three boatmen are taken, is about $2; time with fair wind, about 3 hrs. The remainder of the journey from Obama is best performed on foot, though kagos or packhorses can be hired for the ascent to Onsen if required, and kagos can be taken from the latter place to Shimabara. At Himi the road turns r., and 10 chō further reaches Aba (Inn, Tsuta-ya), a poor fishing village, but prettily situated. Opposite lies the island of Makishima, which encloses between it and the mainland a small harbour where junks can anchor. The sail across to Obama affords charming views.

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In front the various peaks of Onsen-ga-take are seen to advantage, and are named in the following order from l. to r.:—Azuma-dake; Fugen-dake, the highest point of the mountain; Taka-dake and Takai-iwa, the sharp rocky summit rising behind a nearer ridge to the r. Looking back, there is a fine view of the Nagasaki peninsula, whose bold steep coast is indented with bays and inlets. To the l. the bay is studded with wooded islets extending from a reef off the eastern point of Makishima; and in the distant background rises Tara-dake, the highest mountain in the province of Hizen.

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Obama (Inns, Tsuta-ya, Abe-ya), much frequented on account of its mineral waters, which undoubtedly possess great efficacy in rheumatic complaints, consists entirely of inns. The vill. when viewed from the sea has a picturesque aspect, the houses being built on a high stone embankment and on rocky ledges almost overhanging the water. Unfortunately, little or no attempt is made by the inhabitants to cater for European

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requirements. The baths are detached from the inns, and are mostly open tanks on the rocky beach close to the spring from which they are supplied. The temperature of the water at its source is 160° F., but in the baths it is lowered to 106° F. The road to Onsen first mounts a long flight of steps leading up to a Shintō shrine. At the hamlet of Sasa-no-toji, 1 ri from Obama, the road turns sharp to the l., and for a short distance is steep and rough. It then emerges on to an open slope commanding a splendid view towards the Nagasaki peninsula. The path now winds to the r. between two slopes of the ridge, and soon the conspicuous cone of Takai-iwa comes in sight.

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We next reach, 1 1/2 ri from Sasa-no-toji, the small plain of Fuda-no-hara where Fugen-dake and Myōken-dake, two of the highest peaks, come into view. Further on, a path r. branches off to the sulphur springs of Kojigoku (18 chō), where a hotel in foreign style, called Shimoda-ya, has been built. Soon the solfataras of Ōjigoku are seen to the r. before reaching the vill. of Onsen (Inns, Yorozu-ya, Ueda), locally called Unzen, 2,550 ft. above the sea, noted for its sulphur springs, beautiful scenery, and bracing air.

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The Japanese come here to complete their recovery after passing through a course of the Obama baths, and the place has of late years also become a favourite resort of the foreign residents of the treaty ports in China. The baths are public, but buckets of water can be easily brought to the inns, as the springs are close by. Here stands the Buddhist temple of Ichijō-in, which was destroyed by fire during the Christian rebellion of 1637, and rebuilt on a smaller scale. It is a poor, dilapidated building. The solfataras are the chief objects of interest at Onsen,

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but should not be visited without a guide, as the footing is in many places dangerous. The springs extend in one seething and boiling mass for nearly a mile along a hollow at the foot of fir-clad hills, and the volume of steam which rises from them forms a striking contrast to the dark evergreen of the background. Their activity varies at different times, water which under ordinary circumstances is thrown up from 2 ft. to 5 ft., being often projected to double that height. Fanciful names have been given to most of the geysers, the finest being called Dai-Kyōkwan, the Loud Wailing.

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That which bears the name of Chūtō Jigoku, or Middle Class Hell, has a temperature of 204° F. Several of the springs cannot be approached on account of the very insecure footing. Walks from Onsen (Yorozu-ya). 1. Turn to the r., pass the sulphur works, keep to the r., ascend to the farm which supplies milk, take the path about 30 yds. to the r. as you face the farm, and keep to this steadily till the shoulder of the hill is reached; cross the shoulder and keep on to the r. From the top of the ridge the views are splendid in every direction. Be sure to visit each of the three jutting crags or peaks looking towards the gulf.

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Return the same way, or keeping to the r. descend by the steep sheep track to the road from Chijiwa to Onsen; keep to the r. back to Onsen. 2 hrs. 2. Take the road to the l. as you face the torii, pass the vill. with water-wheel, turn l., cross three streams, turn up the mountain on the l. Deep gorge and fine view; 2 hrs. (This is No. 1 reversed, but it is difficult to find the way up the mountain). 3. Road over the hill to E. of bath, i.e. road to the l. as you face the torii, but turning off to the r. just outside the village of Onsen. Keep on over rising ground with woods on each side until the grassy plain at the foot of Onsen-ga-take opens out.

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Take the centre path straight for the mountain, leaving the lake on the r. Ascend to the ridge on the r. taking care to keep well to the r. as soon as the paths begin to ascend. The ascent is rather steep to the r. shoulder of the mountain but the view amply repays one by its splendour; 3 hrs. This is the first part of the ascent of Fugen-dake. 4. Take the path to Kojigoku, pass through the village and turn to the l. under the new Foreign Hotel, follow the path to the grassy ridge, here turn to the r., and keep the path right up to the summit of Takai-iwa, where there is shelter under a natural arch of granite, with a magnificent view over the Kuchinotsu end of the peninsula.

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This is considered by many to be the finest view in the district. An easy walk for ladies and a capital spot for picnics. 3 hrs. 5. The same as No. 3 as far as the lake, where turn off to the l. and descend the first road through a finely wooded ravine with a stream flowing through it. Keep steadily on till the water-wheel vill. is reached, then turn l. and ascend to Onsen. The reverse of this would be to start like No. 2 as far as the water-wheel, and there turn off r. and ascend the ravine, keeping round to the r. for the return. 1 1/2 hr. 6. Same as above to the lake, which is passed by the right-hand path.

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Keep along the path till it bends off to the r., thence ascend to the ridge in front, turn to the r. and return by Kojigoku. 2 hrs. 7. Same as No. 1 to the shoulder of the hill. From this go to the l.; keep on the ridge, descending until the Obama road is reached on the Fuda-no-hara moor;

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turn to the l., and return either by the Obama road or by Kojigoku. 2 1/2 hrs. The road from Onsen to Shimabara ascends steeply to a grassy hollow between the peaks of Onsen-ga-take l., and Taka-dake r. In this hollow lies the Kara-ike, a shallow tarn. [The path up Fugen-dake here turns off to the l. A guide is necessary. The summit consists of three peaks, which are visited in the following order:—Fugen-dake, Myōken-dake, and Onsen-ga-take, the latter being the one seen first after leaving Onsen. The ascent for 1/2 hr. is a moderate climb to the shoulder on the r. of Onsen-ga-take. Here the two other peaks come in view.

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The path then descends through thick brushwood, and on reaching the opposite side of the mountain, commences again to ascend. In 1 hr. from the shoulder of Onsen-ga-take, the summit of Fugen-dake (4,800 ft. above the level of the sea) is reached. Here stands a perpendicular rock 50 ft. high, on whose N. side, being sheltered from the rays of the sun, icicles are sometimes seen as early as the month of November.

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This peak commands a very extensive view, stretching from the provinces of Higo and Satsuma on the one hand, to the distant group of the Gotō Islands on the other, and including, in addition to the lofty summits of Aso-san and Kirishima-yama, innumerable bays and islands, which together form a panorama of indescribable beauty. The second peak, Myōken-dake, is reached in 2 hrs. from Fugen-dake. The way lies partly through brushwood, and passes a small pond in which gold-fish are said to exist.

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Turning the shoulder of Fugen-dake, and passing some caves for storing ice, the path descends into a deep ravine, probably the original crater of the extinct volcano, the bottom of which is a mass of huge boulders interspersed with trees. Wide crevices and slippery rocks here demand the tourist's care and attention. The ascent to Myōken-dake from this ravine is very steep. The summit, like that of Fugen-dake, commands a magnificent view. The third peak, Onsen-ga-take, is reached without difficulty, and the descent of the mountain is easy and rapid. The total distance from the hot-springs of Onsen to the summit of Fugen-dake is called 3 ri.

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Pilgrims usually complete the ascent of the various peaks and the return to Onsen in 8 hrs. The ascent and descent could, however, be made by a good pedestrian in 5 hrs.] After passing Kara-ike, the road descends through a fine rocky valley, the conspicuous summit of Takai-iwa being seen ahead. It then climbs a steep slope, and brings in view the Gulf of Shimabara and several mountains in the province of Higo. Below lies a fertile plain, stretching away towards the S. part of the peninsula; a portion of the island of Amakusa is also seen towards the S. The descent to the plain is, for the greater portion of the way, down a grassy slope amidst boulders and rocks.

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The latter part of the descent is precipitous, through a forest of pines, firs, and camphor-trees. On reaching the hamlet of Minokawa (2 ri from Onsen), the road becomes less steep, and 10 chō further the way is fairly level. Beyond Nakakoba there is a grand view of the magnificent precipices of Maeyama (also called Kueyama), rising like gigantic walls between the town of Shimabara and the main summits of the volcano.

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It is stated that some time in the last century this side of Maeyama was carried away by an enormous landslip and thrown forward into the sea, burying at the same time a part of the town of Shimabara, and forming the innumerable islets which, now clad with pine-trees, give such a picturesque appearance to the bay.

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Shimabara, formerly the castle-town of a Daimyō, consists of two large divisions known respectively as Minato or 'the Port,' (Inn, Chikugo-ya) and Jōka or 'the Town' (Inn, Hashimoto-ya). The traveller should be careful to state to which division he wishes to go; for the two together are continuous for upwards of 1 ri in length.

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At Shimabara occurred one of the most tragic incidents connected with the persecution of the Christians in the 17th century. Here the faithful assembled for defence in large numbers from various parts of the country, and occupied the site of the old castle, portions of whose walls still exist, and around which most of the fighting took place. When the Christians were overpowered, multitudes of both sexes and all ages are said to have been pushed from the cliffs into the sea.

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Memorial stones mark the graves of the officers of the besieging force, the largest monument, about 8 ft. high, being dedicated to the memory of Itakura Shigemasa, Commander-in-Chief of the Shōgun's army, who lost his life in the attack on the stronghold.

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4.—FROM NAGASAKI TO SHIMABARA viâ ISAHAYA AND AITSU. Itinerary. NAGASAKI to: Himi 2 ri 18 chō 6 m.; Yagami 30 chō 2 1/4 m.; Kikitsu 2 ri 18 chō 6 m.; Isahaya 1 ri 31 chō 4 1/2 m.; Sangen-jaya 3 ri 5 chō 7 3/4 m.; Aitsu 15 chō 1 m.; Kojiro (Nishimura) 3 ri 28 chō 9 1/4 m.; Shimabara Jōka 4 ri 8 chō 10 1/4 m.; Shimabara Minato 1 ri 2 1/2 m.; Total 20 ri 9 chō 49 1/2 m. This route is practicable throughout for jinrikishas, and two men are needed only when the whole journey is to be done in one day. Leaving Nagasaki by the suburb of Sakura Baba, the road crosses the Himigawa and the ascent of the Himi-tōge at once begins. The road, diverging to the l. is the old route over the pass.

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In the narrow gully, also to the l. of the main road are situated the new water-works for the town of Nagasaki. Near the top of the pass, the road enters a deep cutting through solid rocks, and on the other side winds down a series of terraces built up along the steep face of the hill. Many travellers walk over the old road to the bottom, instead of following the tortuous windings of the jinrikisha road. After passing through the cutting, there is an excellent view of portions of the Gulf of Shimabara, the high summit of Taradake in Hizen, the volcano of Onsen-ga-take, and in closer proximity the bay of Aba, on whose N. shore rises a conspicuous mountain called Yagami Fugendake.

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On reaching the hamlet of Himi, which lies at the foot of the pass, the road skirts the head of the bay of Aba for a short distance, and soon reaches the vill. of Yagami, a little beyond which the road to Kwannon-no-taki diverges l. (see p. 384). At the Fuji-no-Ōzaka, a hill about 1 ri further on, the scenery becomes pretty, and the bay of Ōmura soon comes into view. Beyond the hamlets of Kuyama and Kaitsu the road divides, the r. branch descending to Isahaya, the l. leading to the town of Ōmura (3 1/2 ri). The latter is the main road to Saga, the capital of the prefecture, and on to the Straits of Shimonoseki.

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Isahaya (Inn, Maru-ya) is a small town lining both banks of the Hommyō-gawa, a river which flows into the Gulf of Shimabara. Sailing boats to Wakatsu on the Chikugo-gawa can be procured here, the passage taking about 12 hrs.

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A Shintō temple stands in prettily laid out gardens on the r. bank of the river, and the picturesque 'little tea-houses' in the grounds are much frequented by holiday-makers. The river is spanned by a fine old stone-bridge. On leaving Isahaya, the road crosses a plain to the vill. of Akasaki (1 1/2 ri), and then skirts the foot of low hills as far as the hamlet of Moriyama, whence it ascends a hill commanding a fine view of the plain that stretches away to the base of Taradake. From the tea-house known as Sangen-jaya, we soon reach the straggling vill. of Aitsu (poor accommodation).

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[An alternative way of reaching Aitsu is by boat from Aba, the passage usually taking from 3 to 3 1/2 hrs. From the landing-place, there is a path across the isthmus to the vill., 8 chō, where jinrikishas can be engaged to Shimabara Minato. From Aitsu a good road branches off l., and leads round the peninsula of Shimabara viâ Obama and Kuchinotsu, the itinerary being as follows: AITSU to: Chijiwa 1 ri 9 chō 3 m.; Obama 2 ri 5 m.; Kita Gushiyama 1 ri 18 chō 3 1/2 m.; Minami Gushiyama 1 ri 18 chō 3 1/2 m.; Katsusa 1 ri 2 1/2 m.; Kuchinotsu 1 ri 2 1/2 m.; Minami Arima 1 ri 2 1/2 m.; Kita Arima 20 chō 1 1/2 m.; Nishi Arie 1 ri 10 chō 3 m.;

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Dōzaki 1 ri 15 chō 3 1/2 m.; Fukae 1 ri 30 chō 4 1/2 m.; Nakakoba 1 ri 8 chō 3 m.; Shimabara Minato 1 ri 18 chō 3 1/2 m.; Total 17 ri 2 chō 41 1/2 m. Kuchinotsu is a 'special port' for the shipment of coal to foreign countries.

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Nearly the whole output of the Miike mines is brought down to Kuchinotsu in junks, and thence exported to Shanghai, Hongkong, etc.] The road between Aitsu and Shimabara for the most part lies near the shore of the gulf, and commands from different points magnificent views of the Shimabara mountains. The view across the gulf is also very beautiful.

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5.—TO THE BATHS OF URESHINO AND TAKEO, viâ TOKITSU, ŌMURA, AND SONOGI. From Nagasaki it is an easy day's journey to Takeo. Travellers should start in time to catch the 9 A.M. boat from Tokitsu (see p. 383). There is a second boat daily about 1 P.M., by which Ureshino can be comfortably reached the same day. From Tokitsu the steamer runs along the coast to Ōmura, formerly a Daimyō's town, of neat and clean appearance. The trip by water is very pleasant. At Sonogi (Inn, *Matsumori-ya; inferior accommodation at one on the wharf), jinrikishas can be hired to Ureshino, 3 ri.

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The road lies along a gently rising valley, the slopes of which are coal-measures inclined at moderate angles; this formation continues as far as Takeo. Half a mile from the latter place a white porphyritic rock forms a mountain called Shiroyama. The scenery is pretty throughout. The hot-springs of Ureshino (Inns, *Shio-ya, Wataya) are situated on the bank of the river which flows past the town. The public baths are enclosed in a long wooden shed, and are divided into three classes. The first-class bath has three large handsome blue and white porcelain receptacles for the water, which is cooled before

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admission into the baths, and can be let in or out at pleasure. Takeo (Inns, Shunkei-ya, Shokoku-ya) lies in a valley 3 ri from Ureshino. The baths are supplied from a single hot-spring. The first-class bath can be specially engaged for periods of 1 hr. at a moderate figure. The famous potteries of Arita are only about 6 m. distant from Takeo. Proceeding to Arita, one can return to Nagasaki viâ Haiki, whence steamer to Tokitsu.

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