鉄道と道路で北西九州を行く

ROUTE 56. THROUGH NORTH-WESTERN KYŪSHŪ BY RAIL AND ROAD. 1. THE KYŪSHŪ RAILWAY. DAZAIFU. KURUME TO NAKATSU BY THE YABAKE VALLEY. 2. FROM KOKURA TO DAZAIFU viâ HIKO-SAN. 3. FROM FUKUOKA TO NAGASAKI viâ IMARI AND ARITA. 4. FROM FUKUOKA TO SAGA OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 5. FROM TOSU TO SAGA, AND TO NAGASAKI BY THE MAIN ROAD. The Kyūshū Railway will shortly be completed to Kumamoto, 16 m. further than the present terminus. The landscape is very fine the whole way from Moji to Ongagawa, after which it is mostly flat. A considerable portion of the line skirts the sea-shore as far as Hakata, where it strikes inland. 1. THE KYŪSHŪ RAILWAY. Distance from Moji: MOJI; Dairi 3 m.

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KOKURA 7 1/4 m.; Kurosaki 14 1/2 m.; Orio 17 3/4 m.; Ongagawa 20 1/4 m.; Akama 27 3/4 m.; Fukuma 31 m.; Koga 36 1/4 m.; Kashii 42 m.; Hakozaki 45 1/2 m.; HAKATA 47 m.; Zassho-no-kuma 51 1/2 m.; Futsukaichi 56 m.; Harada 59 1/2 m.; Tashiro 61 1/2 m. (proposed junction for Arita and Sasebo); Tosu 65 3/4 m. (road to Saga); KURUME 69 3/4 m.; Hainotsuka 77 1/4 m.; Yabegawa 81 1/4 m.; Watase (proposed station); Omuta 90 1/4 m.; Nagasu 98 m.; TAKASE 104 m. Kokura (Inn, Nakamura-ya) is a long, straggling, and busy town, formerly the seat of a Daimyō, and now occupied by a garrison. Steamboats ply daily between here and Shimonoseki. Kurosaki (Inn, Sakura-ya).

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Near Orio, the railway crosses a bridge spanning another line connecting Nogata with Wakamatsu, a distance of about 27 m. [Nogata (Inn, *Iwada-ya) is a long vill. on the old highway to Nagasaki. The Mitsubishi Company are making it the centre of their extensive coal mining enterprise. The coal region extends southward for nearly 80 m., the best coal being found between this place and Iizuka (Inn, Wata-ya).] Near Ongagawa a good view is obtained of the mountains on the

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l. of the line—Kurosaki-yama and Fukuchi-yama—the highest point of the line (300 ft. above sea-level) being reached between this station and Akama (Inn, Yone-ya). Soon we come in view of the stretch of sea called the Genkai Nada. Just after leaving Kashii, the hot mineral springs of Arayu are observed l. On leaving Hakozaki, one perceives the Shintō temple of Hachiman mentioned below. Hakata (Inns, Kaiyō-kwan, Satsuma-ya, in Hashiguchi-machi; Yoshimi-ya in Najima-machi, across the bridge on the Fukuoka side) is the port of Fukuoka, from which it is separated by the Nakagawa. The Public Garden is a broad belt of fir-trees laid out in walks and drives.

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It contains a memorial erected to Hōjō Tokimune, the then de facto ruler of Japan, who in the 13th century met and conquered at this spot Koppitsu Retsu, a famous Mongolian general who had seized Tsushima and invaded Kyūshū. Hakata is celebrated for its silk manufactures, called Hakata-ori, and possesses several fine shops. On the Nakashima, or 'Central Island,' formed by the two rivers which flow from Dazaifu, is the Kyōshin-kwan or Public Hall, and the Club in foreign style. About 1 m. from the Public Garden is the celebrated Shintō temple known as Hakozaki Hachimangū, standing in tastefully laid out grounds with a fine avenue of fir-trees extending down to the sea-shore.

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From this an excursion should be made to Najima, about 3 1/2 m. by road, crossing a ferry over an arm of the sea close to the railway bridge, and turning l. by the shore to a slight elevation on which stands a very old temple dedicated to Benzaiten. The spot commands a fine view of the bay and islands. Below, on

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the shore, are sections of a petrified fir-tree, said by tradition to be the mast of the junk in which the Empress Jingō Kōgō was wrecked when returning from Korea. On the way back to the town, we pass the dilapidated Buddhist temple of Sōfukuji. Here are the handsome tombs of the former Princes of Chikuzen, the first of whom was Kuroda Nagamasa (d. 1623), an influential Christian convert, commemorated in the letters of the Jesuit missionaries under the name of Simon Condera. The railway station is at the E. end of the town. From the port, which has a pier over 400 ft. in length, steamers to Nagasaki and the south, and to Shimonoseki and Ōsaka ply almost daily.

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All information can be obtained at Hayashi Kiyosuke's office and inn on the wharf. On the other side of the river is Fukuoka (Inns, *Fukushima-ya, Kaiyō-kwan), formerly the residence of the Kuroda family, Princes of Chikuzen, and now capital of a prefecture and a flourishing town possessing many modern buildings, including the Normal School, the Post and Telegraph Offices, the Methodist School for girls, and the Episcopal, Methodist, and Independent Churches. The Daimyō-machi and Tenjin-machi, extending from the castle to the Prefecture (Kenchō), are exceptionally fine streets. The castle is occupied by a garrison of 2,000 men.

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The Public Garden (Nishi Kōen) deserves a visit for the sake of the views it affords. At the base seawards is a small shrine, and at low tide a pleasant walk brings one back to the town round the promontory of the park. Atago-san should be ascended, for which 1/2 hr. will suffice. Jinrikishas can be sent on to the western descent, whence continuing the excursion we reach 2 ri further Mei-

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no-hama. From here a détour should be made to the r. to a shrine of Bishamon, situated at the top of a lofty, well-wooded hill, which juts out into the sea and affords a charming view. Time 1 1/2 hr. The road runs alternately by the sea and through fir plantations, and is extremely picturesque. There are two waterfalls in the neighbourhood. One, called Kwannon-taki, is distant about 4 1/4 ri, of which 4 ri to the vill. of Ishigama can be done in jinrikisha. The fall is about 100 ft. high, and is at the source of the Moromi-gawa.

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The other, called Raizan no tōrō-daki on Ikazuchi-yama, is 3 ri off by jinrikisha and 1 1/2 ri on foot. Futsukaichi is the station for Dazaifu (Inn, Izumi-ya), one of the most celebrated places in the south. In early times Dazaifu was the seat of the Governor-Generalship of the Island of Kyūshū,—a post which, though apparently honourable, was often used as a form of exile for offenders of high rank. The most celebrated of these exiled governors was Sugawara-no-Michizane, who is worshipped under the name of Tenjin (see p. 32). At Dazaifu is a temple dedicated to Tenjin which is approached through a bronze torii built in 1782, and then over a high-arched bridge spanning a large pond.

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The courtyard contains a number of cows, lions, and owls in bronze and stone. Upon application to the priests, various relics may be examined, such as swords by famous makers, a bronze statuette of Confucius, and some MSS. About 1 m. from Dazaifu stands the Buddhist temple of Kwanzeonji, founded in the 7th century. It is dedicated to Kwannon, whose colossal image, flanked by two others, occupies the principal building. A number of interesting relics are here shown. About 1 1/2 m. from the station on the side opposite to Dazaifu, is the hot-spring and sulphur bath of Musashi-mura. Above this will be seen a prominent peak crowned by a single fir-tree, under which is a small shrine.

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This is Tempaizan, where Michizane, looking towards Kyōto, worshipped the Emperor by whom he had been exiled. The view from this point is extensive. The sights of Dazaifu may easily be done in 2 hrs., so that it will be sufficient to stop between trains. Harada (Inn, Hizen-ya). Tosu being the nearest station to the prefectural town of Saga, travellers bound in that direction will here leave the train. For Saga see p. 396.

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Kurume (Inns, Fukudō-ya, Yamada-ya) stands on the l. bank of the Chikugo-gawa, and was formerly the seat of a Daimyō named Arima Gemba-no-Kami. A pleasant walk of 1 1/2 ri through the suburbs leads the traveller to Kōra-san, a Shintō temple of some note, whose grounds are well-kept and command a fine view of the plain below. [FROM KURUME TO NAKATSU BY THE YABAKE VALLEY. Itinerary. KURUME to: Yoshii 6 ri 18 chō 15 3/4 m.; Hida in Bungo 6 ri 14 3/4 m.; Miyazono 6 ri 8 chō 15 1/4 m.; Hida in Buzen 3 ri 34 chō 9 1/4 m.; NAKATSU 3 ri 12 chō 8 1/4 m.; Total 26 ri 63 1/2 m. Jinrikishas all the way. Time 2 days, stopping the first night at Hida in Bungo (Inn, Yamada-ya).

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The Yabake valley, celebrated for its beauty, begins at Miyazono. For Nakatsu see p. 398.] Near Omuta, the works of the Miike coal mines are indicated by the smoke rising from them. Before reaching Takase (Inn, Kita-ya), the line

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approaches the sea, and good views are obtained of Onsen-ga-take on the Shimabara peninsula. There is to be a station between Takase and Kumamoto at a place called Ueki. To the l., just before reaching this, the line passes below a small eminence called Tawara-zaka, crowned by a monument to the memory of the soldiers who fell during the fierce fighting that raged for eighteen days in this neighbourhood during the Satsuma rebellion. The monument is a monolith of white marble brought from Yatsushiro in 1878.

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2.—FROM KOKURA TO DAZAIFU viâ HIKO-SAN. Itinerary. KOKURA to: Yobuno 4 ri 10 chō 10 1/4 m.; Kawara 2 ri 2 chō 5 1/4 m.; Soida 3 ri 11 chō 8 m.; Hiko-san 4 ri 23 chō 11 1/4 m.; Koishiwara 3 ri 7 1/4 m.; Amagi 6 ri 14 1/2 m.; DAZAIFU 4 ri 23 chō 11 1/4 m.; Total 27 ri 33 chō 68 m. There is fair accommodation at the chief villages passed through. Jinrikishas are only practicable over some portions of the route. The road traverses a cultivated plain between picturesque hills to Yobuno, at the foot of a ridge called Ryōga-no-hana. It then crosses the Kibi-tōge, commanding a fine view of Kawara Ichi-no-take.

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From Saitōjo the road ascends again, winding round this peak and round Kawara Ni-no-take, then descending to the village of Kawara. Hence by jinrikisha to Soida, up the valley of a tributary of the Masuda-gawa, which takes its rise on Hiko-san, and after changing its name several times, as is the manner of Japanese rivers, falls into the sea between Kokura and Hakata. From Soida

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the road ascends the r. bank of the river to Masuda, and then follows its left bank to Ochiai, where the river is crossed and the l. branch followed up a steep ravine. After 1 1/4 hr. walk from Masuda, that portion of the Hiko-san range known as Shōjiku-take comes in view. The path now becomes rocky and ascends to Oiwake, whence we have a fine view of Kambuku-yama, a conical wooded peak, and of Shōjiku-take, a long grass-grown ridge. A flight of broad, rough steps leads to a bronze torii at the entrance of the road to Gongen Sama. This is a steep ascent of 42 chō by the most direct way.

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The vill. of Hiko-san has many good walks in its vicinity, affording splendid views of Kōshō-san, Umami-yama, Kambuku, and other mountains. From Hiko-san the traveller retraces his steps to Oiwake, where the road divides, the l. branch leading towards the province of Chikuzen. As far as Shioi (baths and inns), on the bank of the Shioi-gawa, the road is level. It then crosses the Kaifuku-tōge and several other hills before reaching the boundary between Buzen and Chikuzen, 8 chō on this side of Koishiwara, noted for earthenware of a dark colour, made in this neighbourhood by the descendants of Korean potters, who are said to have migrated hither after the conquest of their native country by Hideyoshi.

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Descending the valley of the Daikon-gawa, the road traverses a vast plain of arable land to Jizōgaya, before arriving at the large town of Amagi (Inn, Mizuire-ya). Hence one may either proceed by jinrikisha the whole way to Dazaifu, or turn aside at Yamae (Inns, Take-ya, Kokura-ya), whence to Futsukaichi on the railway is a distance of 2 ri. For Dazaifu (Inn, Izumi-ya) see the previous page.

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3.—FROM FUKUOKA TO NAGASAKI viâ IMARI AND ARITA.

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Itinerary. FUKUOKA to: Meinohama 2 ri 3 chō 5 m.; Imajuku 1 ri 17 chō 3 3/4 m.; Maebaru 1 ri 31 chō 4 1/2 m.; Fukae 2 ri 7 chō 5 1/4 m.; Hamasaki 4 ri 9 chō 10 1/4 m.; Tokusue 4 ri 9 3/4 m.; IMARI 4 ri 9 3/4 m.; Arita 3 ri 7 1/4 m.; Kawatana 3 ri 2 chō 7 1/2 m.; Tokitsu (by water) 7 ri 17 m.; NAGASAKI 2 ri 32 chō 7 m.; Total 35 ri 29 chō 87 1/4 m. This trip is picturesque throughout, and practicable for jinrikishas. The road leaves Fukuoka by the Torichō-bashi, spanning the stream which supplies the castle moat and mere with sea-water. The road on to Hamasaki is wide and level, with beautiful sea views. Maebaru (Inn, Kōji-ya).

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[After passing through this village, a jinrikisha road turns off sharp to the r. leading round Ko-Fujiyama through pretty scenery to the shore, and passing several villages to Keiya, about 2 1/2 ri. Here there is a singular cavern, which can only be entered from the sea by boats obtainable at the vill. The rocks are piled up in columns and strangely fissured. The cavern is about 12 ft. high and 18 ft. wide, but has not been explored beyond a depth of about 100 ft. Four hours should be allowed for this détour.] The road from Maebaru follows the sea-shore, and enters the province of Hizen shortly before reaching Hamasaki (Inn, Manju-ya). Here a road branches r. to Karatsu where coal is extensively mined.

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From Tokusue (Inn, Manju-ya) onwards, the road passes through pretty scenery to Imari (Inns, Nakano, Kyō-ya). This place, situated at the bottom of a small bay, gives its name to the porcelain produced at Arita, which is brought here for export. Imari itself was never a seat of the manufacture. The road to Arita is along a picturesque valley. Arita (several inns) is prettily situated amongst the hills. The traveller should not fail to visit the potteries, and the quarries of Izumi-yama where the stone is dug. The rock is crushed by levers worked by water-power. These potteries were established in 1592 under the superintendence of a Korean brought over by Nabeshima, Prince of Hizen.

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Clay from Hirado and the Gotō Islands is now generally used for glazing. From Arita the nearest way to Nagasaki is by land to Kawatana, on the gulf of Ōmura, and thence by steamer to Tokitsu. Another route is to Haiki, 3 ri, and steamer to Tokitsu. 4.—FROM FUKUOKA TO SAGA OVER THE MOUNTAINS. Itinerary. FUKUOKA to: Sowara 32 chō 2 1/4 m.; Tamura 1 ri 16 chō 3 1/2 m.; Tiba 1 ri 20 chō 3 3/4 m.; Mitsuze-yama 1 ri 27 chō 4 1/4 m.; Sandanda 3 ri 9 chō 8 m.; Daichigawara 2 ri 13 chō 5 3/4 m.; SAGA 2 ri 1 chō 5 m.; Total 13 ri 10 chō 32 1/2 m. Only 9 ri of this road are practicable for jinrikishas. The portion between Tiba and Sandanda must be walked.

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Near Sandanda, at the hamlet of Matsuo, is a fine waterfall 250 ft. high, with a shrine dedicated to Kwannon. There are also two or three small spas in this

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neighbourhood, of which the best is Furuyu possessing several good inns. Further noteworthy are the old Buddhist temple of Jissō-in, and the Shintō shrine of Yodo-hime, the oldest in Kyūshū, quaintly situated by the river-side at the foot of the mountains, and much resorted to by holiday-makers from Saga.

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5.—FROM TOSU TO SAGA, AND TO NAGASAKI BY THE MAIN ROAD. Itinerary. TOSU to: Nakabaru 1 ri 24 chō 4 m.; Kanzaki 2 ri 5 chō 5 1/4 m.; SAGA 2 ri 2 chō 5 m.; Ushizu 2 ri 18 chō 6 m.; Oda 2 ri 5 chō 5 1/4 m.; Kitataka 2 ri 11 chō 5 3/4 m.; TAKEO 1 ri 5 chō 2 3/4 m.; Ureshino 3 ri 24 chō 9 m.; Sonogi 3 ri 7 1/4 m.; Ōmura 4 ri 24 chō 11 1/2 m.; Eishō 3 ri 7 1/4 m.; Yagami 3 ri 32 chō 9 1/2 m.; NAGASAKI 3 ri 17 chō 8 1/2 m.; Total 35 ri 23 chō 87 m. Tosu being the nearest station to Saga, travellers alight here. There is an excellent jinrikisha road the whole way on to Nagasaki.

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Nakabaru is a regular resting-place, though it offers but poor accommodation. Kanzaki is a large and flourishing town, noted for the manufacture of vermicelli and maccaroni. A new direct road from this to Saga shortens the journey by 1 ri. A fine bridge spans a tributary of the Ogawa, whose waters in flood time in May or June have often wrought terrible destruction in the surrounding valley. Saga (Inns, Hitotsu-ya, Matsumoto-ya) is situated in the centre of an extensive plain famous for its rice cultivation. This old and celebrated castle-town was formerly the

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seat of the Nabeshima family, Princes of Hizen, whose present representative, Marquis Nabeshima, now occupies the post of Grand Master of Ceremonies at the Imperial Court and was some time Japanese Minister to Italy. The chief feature of the place is the Shimbaba park, which contains shrines to the memory of the ancestors of the Nabeshima family. Among them is a fine white marble memorial to Naomasa, father of the present Marquis, who brought it over from Italy. The grounds are prettily laid out. The new Police and Prefectural offices are pretentious buildings in modern style.

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The old castle has been turned to various purposes, and but few traces of its original grandeur remain; but a magnificent effect is produced in August when the extensive moats are filled with lotus-flowers. About 2 ri N. of the castle is Kōno no O Chaya, the Nabeshimas' country-seat, which visitors are shown over in the absence of the family by courtesy of the custodian. Saga has given its name to one of the small civil wars which followed the great revolution of 1868, when feudalism was making its last struggle against Imperialism and Europeanisation.

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Etō Shimpei, some time Minister of Justice under the new Imperial Government, having returned to his home in Saga, raised the standard of revolt, expecting all Kyūshū to follow him. In this, however, he was disappointed, and the revolt was put down in ten days. Etō and ten other ringleaders were condemned to death, and their heads exposed on the pillory. This took place in 1874. Leaving Saga the road traverses the great plain forming the head of the Shimabara gulf, across which Fugen-dake can be clearly seen. After passing the long straggling village of Ushizu, the road gradually approaches the mountains. Yamaguchi possesses a favourite rest-house half-way to Takeo.

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Oda is a busy village with several coal-pits close by the road. At

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about 2 ri we pass r. a large reservoir to supply the fields on the level sea-shore. Takeo to Sonogi (see p. 390). From Sonogi to Ōmura along the shore of the gulf is a very pretty ride of 5 ri. The avenue of cherry-trees just before entering the latter town is a great attraction in spring to visitors from Nagasaki. Ōmura (Inn, Kambutsu-ya) was formerly the residence of a Daimyō, and is still a busy town. The walls of the castle are still in good preservation. The finely wooded, well-kept grounds afford a charming place to saunter in. Paintings and various other relics of bye-gone days are here preserved in a small building.

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Leaving Ōmura, a capital road through charming scenery passes through Eishō, crosses a spur of the mountains, and descends to Isahaya. The remainder of the way on to Nagasaki is described on p. 389. [By leaving Saga at 6 A.M. with two jinrikisha-men, the 1.30 P.M. boat may be caught at Sonogi. Should the boat be missed, it is possible by taking fresh runners to reach Nagasaki the same evening, the whole distance by road being 30 ri from Saga.]

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