函館近郊の小旅行

ROUTE 63. EXCURSIONS FROM HAKODATE. ASCENT OF ESAN. YUNOKAWA. THE LAKES. KOMA-GA-TAKE. 1.—YUNOKAWA. Distance 1 ri 29 chō (4 1/3 m.) on foot, in jinrikisha, or omnibus, the latter starting several times daily during the summer. Yunokawa is a charming place at which to spend a few days, owing to its pure sea air, its hot-springs, and the pretty walks in the neighbourhood, especially one to Yunosawa, less than a ri inland. The best inns are Senshin-kwan, Yōsei-kwan, and Kakudai.

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2.—THE LAKES. Distance 7 ri 5 chō (17 m.), passing through Nanae, which is 4 1/2 m. from Hakodate. The favourite holiday resort in the neighbourhood of Hakodate is that known to foreigners as 'the Lakes.' The two principal lakes are named respectively Junsai-numa (or Konuma), and Onuma. They lie nearly 20 m. from Hakodate, and not far from the base of the volcano of Koma-ga-take. Their shores are covered with luxuriant vegetation, while the islets furnish objective points for those who may wish to go out boating. The lake fish can be taken with a worm, but will not rise to the fly. Konuma contains prawns of a very delicate flavour.

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Junsai-numa takes its name from a species of lily (Limnanthemum peltatum), which is considered a delicacy and brought in great quantities to Hakodate. No place in Yezo affords so good a field to the entomologist, especially if lepidoptera be the object of his search. The Lakes may be reached on horseback or by carriage. The usual charge for horses was, in the summer of 1890, from $1.50 to $3, and for native carriages about $5.

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The drive to the hamlet of Junsai-mura on the borders of Junsai-numa, where it is best to stay, takes from 3 1/2 to 4 hrs. The first portion of the road, which is also the high road to Mori, and which was constructed by American engineers, lies along the flat that skirts the bay. The only halting-place worthy of mention is at Nanae.

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Originally started by a Mr. Gärtner, to whom a large tract of ground had been granted in 1868 by the rebel government of Yezo, this experimental farm was purchased by the Kaitakushi, who imported and bred foreign cattle, sheep, horses, etc., raised European and American farm-produce, vegetables, and flowers, and introduced the cultivation of foreign grapes for the purpose of making wine. While the horses are resting, a walk may be taken through the gardens. Three miles beyond Nanae the ground rises, and it becomes necessary to alight from the carriage.

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Pretty glimpses of the Hakodate Peak and of the mountains of the mainland are occasionally obtained; and from a little point just off the road close to the summit, the Lakes are first caught sight of. The summit of the hill is 940 ft. above the level of the sea. At Junsai-mura there are two inns, both on the l. side of the road. The first one, situated immediately at the foot of the hill and kept by Miyazaki Jūbei, is most patronised by the drivers; but the semi-European one further on, known by the sign of Maru-san, is the better of the two. Travellers will of course bring their own provisions; but fair Japanese food and also foreign potatoes can be obtained.

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Primitive boats for going out on the lake and equally primitive fishing-gear can be hired. It is a 10 min. walk hence through a pretty wood to the shores of Lake Onuma. A good view of Koma-ga-take is obtained from Junsai-numa.

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If the traveller has only one day at his disposal, the pleasantest plan is to start early in the morning, lunch at the inn, then stroll over to Onuma, and return to Hakodate in the cool of the evening.

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3.—ASCENT OF THE VOLCANO KOMA-GA-TAKE. Itinerary. Hakodate to: Togeshita, 5 ri 5 chō (12 m.); Shikonoppe (a little way on); Yakeyama, 3 ri 18 chō (9 m.); total, 8 ri 23 chō (21 m.). This is the mountain whose sharp peak (in reality only the higher side of the wall of the crater) forms so conspicuous an object from Hakodate. It lies nearly due N. of the town, and is reached by the road mentioned in Excursion 2. The two trips should be combined, the night being spent at Junsai-mura. Accommodation of an inferior quality may be procured a little further on, at Shikonoppe, and also at Yakeyama at the very base of the mountain.

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From Junsai-mura, the expedition can easily be made in 6 hrs., including stoppages, and many will prefer to make it at night in order to see the sunrise from the summit. For this purpose the carriage brought from Hakodate should be kept, so as to drive on as far as Yakeyama, 4 hrs. of uninteresting road. Here horses are mounted which, together with a guide, should be sent on ahead, and 1 hr. ride through a thick growth of underwood and of grasses that overtop the riders' heads leads to the place where it is necessary to dismount. It is another hour's walk over sand and volcanic detritus to the lip of the crater, which commands a fine view of Volcano Bay on the one hand, and on the other of the Lakes, behind which Hakodate Bay and even the town and shipping can be distinguished.

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To the l. towers the wall of rock forming what looks like a peak from most points of view. The ascent of it is not impossible, but has rarely been attempted. Traces of vegetation are found up to the very summit. On the way up there is a little platform, said to be inaccessible, which supports three curiously shaped stones popularly supposed to have been once the abode of a fabulous monkey (yaen). Beneath and in front of the spectator lies the crater. To the r. is seen Yokotsu-dake, itself an old volcano, whose height is estimated at 3,800 ft.

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The last eruption of Koma-ga-take took place on the 22nd August, 1856, when all the neighbourhood of the present hamlet of Yakeyama (lit. 'burning mountain') is said to have been denuded of trees. Inside the crater a certain degree of activity is still displayed in the boiling pools; and care must be taken in treading on all circles or ridges of ground which rise slightly above the general level, as they are hollow and may give way. The descent to the place where the horses are waiting only occupies a few minutes. The height of Koma-ga-take is 3,860 ft. There is no water on the way up.

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4.—THE VOLCANO OF ESAN. Itinerary. Hakodate to: Yunokawa, 1 ri 29 chō (4 1/2 m.); Oyasu, 3 ri 5 chō (8 m.); Toi, 2 ri 11 chō (5 1/2 m.); Shirikishinai, 2 ri 14 chō (5 1/2 m.); Nidanai, 4 ri 27 chō (11 1/2 m.); Todohokke (foot of Esan), 1 ri 9 chō (3 1/2 m.); total, 15 ri 23 chō (38 1/2 m.).

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This constantly active volcano, between 1,900 ft. and 2,000 ft. high, is the first point of the Island of Yezo sighted on the voyage up from Yokohama. The journey thither from Hakodate may be performed on horseback in one day; but it is better to allow 3 days for the whole expedition there and back. If four are allowed, the following pleasant round trip may be made: first to the Lakes and Koma-ga-take, and thence to Kakumi on the S. shore of Volcano Bay, where arrangements should at once be made for a boat to convey the party next day along the coast to Todohokke. The coast is bold and affords striking views, some water-falls which leap over rocky ledges into the sea being especially beautiful.

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At Todohokke, where there is an inn of the usual country type, a guide should be procured to lead the party up the mountain, the summit of which will be reached after an hour's walk. The S. side of the crater-wall, by which the ascent is made, has been completely blown away; the floor seethes with solfataras and springs of boiling water, and there are constant subterranean rumblings. The upper portion of the wall of the crater is of a bright yellow colour, and emits dense whitish fumes.

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