函館から札幌と噴火湾へ

ROUTE 66. FROM HAKODATE TO SAPPORO AND VOLCANO BAY. VOYAGE TO OTARU. [YOICHI AND IWANAI; ACROSS COUNTRY TO MOMBETSU ON VOLCANO BAY.] SAPPORO. EXCURSIONS FROM SAPPORO: PORONAI, HOKKYŌ, LAKE CHITOSE. OVERLAND TO MORORAN. [VOLCANO BAY.] MORI. This trip includes some of the best portions of Yezo, and will show the traveller within the limits of a week or 10 days as fair a specimen of the island - its scenery, its modern improvements, and aboriginal Ainos - as it is possible to compress within so short a time. A fairly good steamer of the Nippon Yūsen Kwaisha leaves Hakodate for Otaru every fourth day, the passage taking 22 hrs. in fine weather. Occasionally an outside steamer may be availed of.

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While passing through the Tsugaru Straits, where the main current always runs towards the E., the steamer hugs the cliff-bound coast of southern Yezo. Four hrs. from Hakodate it passes the castle-town of Fukuyama, formerly called Matsumae, for centuries the residence of the Daimyōs by whom the island was ruled. Ahead are seen the volcanic islands of Oshima and Kojima, and to the S. on the mainland of Japan, Iwaki-san, often called the Northern Fuji from its beautiful logarithmic curvature.

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If the steamer leaves Hakodate at midday (the usual hour of sailing), it will pass the island of Okushiri before nightfall, and by morning will have rounded the high cliffs of Shakotan, and have passed “Sail Rock” and the shrine on the cliff to which junks make obeisance by lowering their sail. From this point it is 35 m. to Otaru, properly Otarunai (Inns, Etchū-ya, Kitō). This Aino name means “the stream (nai) of the sandy (ota) road (ru).” The town is now, however, entirely Japanese.

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Next to Hakodate it is the largest and most bustling on the coast, the chief industry of its inhabitants being herring-fishing. The only evidences of the former Aino occupation of the place are the flint implements and fragments of pottery imbedded in the soil, and possibly some scribbling on a rock in a suburb called Temiya. This rock has terribly perplexed the learned. To begin with, are the inscriptions really inscriptions at all? If so, are they of Aino origin - but then it is almost certain that the Ainos never knew aught of writing? Or are they not rather cognate to “Bill Stumps his mark”?

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A few years ago the authorities caused a shed to be erected over the rock in question, but not till the weather had exercised so disintegrating an influence on it that there is now little left to argue about. [There is a fair road from Otaru W. along the coast to Yoichi, 5 ri 20 chō, whence a very pretty mountain road leads across the neck of the peninsula to Iwanai, 11 ri 30 chō. From Iwanai a very rough road leads right round the S.W. of the island to Hakodate. It is also possible, from a point between Yoichi and Iwanai, and about 3 ri from the latter place, to strike off in a S.E. direction across country to Mombetsu on Volcano Bay.

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The distance is 14 ri, and takes 2 days, the first night being spent at a farm-house at Shiribetsu. The trail is extremely rough, following water-courses, and passing through bamboo-grass and weeds often as high as the traveller’s head as he sits on horseback. Mount Shiribetsu is a beautiful isolated cone from 6,000 ft. to 7,000 ft. high. Lake Usu, likewise, along whose shore the path runs for several ri, is very pretty. Mombetsu has a beet-root

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sugar factory, capable of turning out 75 tons per diem.] Hokkaidō Railway. Distance from Otaru - names of stations: Otaru (Temiya); 2 m., Sumiyoshi; 6, Asari; 11, Zenibako; 16, Karugawa; 20, Kotoni; 22, Sapporo; 26, Shiraishi; 29, Atsubetsu; 34, Nopporo; 36, Ebetsu; 41, Horomui (Poronai); 48, Iwamizawa; 54, Naifuto. The railway journey from Otaru to Sapporo occupies about 2 hrs. The rolling stock is American, and the line is said to have been built more cheaply than any other in the world. The scenery is very pretty for the first few miles, the railway being hemmed in between the sea and bold overhanging rocks, and affording beautiful views of the coast.

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The plain surrounding the mouth of the river Ishikari is then crossed, and the rest of the way runs across flat, marshy country, covered with trees and tall rank weeds, to Sapporo. Sapporo (Hotel, *Hōhei-kwan, originally intended for an Imperial Palace; Japanese inns, Yoshida, Yamagata-ya, Kyōka-rō), the capital of the island, did not grow up naturally like Matsumae in old times and Hakodate in more recent days, in obedience to the requirements of trade.

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It was created by official fiat during the present reign, and depends for its prosperity chiefly on the public institutions established there, notably on the Agricultural College which is the last remnant of the Kaitakushi, or Colonisation Commission, and on the Military Colony

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(Tonden-hei) in the neighbouring country. The Prefecture, a building in European style, will vie with anything of the kind in Tōkyō. There are also saw-mills and flour-mills, sugar, hemp, and flax factories, a brewery, an establishment for making wine, and a museum well worth visiting, besides small theatres and other places of amusement. The salmon and trout fishing for which Sapporo was formerly noted has been a good deal spoilt by the establishment of the mills, but there is snipe and duck shooting in the autumn. The pleasantest walks near Sapporo are: 1. To the horse-farm of Makomanai.

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2. To the top of Maruyama, whence there is a fine view of the plain surrounding Sapporo and of the River Ishikari, the longest in Japan. The best longer excursions are: 3. On foot or by jinrikisha to Kariki, distant about 1 ri. There take a dug-out canoe, and drift down to Ebetsu, spinning or fly-fishing on the way. Return in the afternoon by train. 4. By train to Poronai, to see the coal-mines and the convict prison. The convicts are employed in the mines, the daily output being from 600 to 1,000 tons. Those desirous of visiting the site of the much-talked of new capital - Hokkyō - may reach it by carriage, 23 ri to Kamikawa on the river Ishikari, 140 m. from its mouth.

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5. On horseback or by jinrikisha or carriage past the Makomanai horse-farm, through Ishiyama on the river Toyohira to Jōzankei, where there are hot-springs and good fishing. Distance 6 ri. 6. To a lake 7 ri from Chitose, the last ri by Aino boat up a river which threads the primeval forest. There is a beautiful waterfall on the way, unfortunately much hidden by the denseness of the vegetation.

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The lake itself is completely surrounded by high wooded hills except on one side, where there is a bare volcano. The flies are a terrible scourge. From Sapporo to Mororan on Volcano Bay is a 2 days’ journey in a four-wheeled covered waggon, holding two persons and costing (in 1890) $4 per head. A relay may be obtained at Tomakomai, where the first night should be spent. Itinerary. Sapporo to: Shimamappu, 5 ri 28 chō (14 m.); Chitose, 4 ri 8 chō (10 1/2 m.); Tomakomai, 6 ri 28 chō (17 m.); Shiraoi, 5 ri 22 chō (13 1/2 m.); Horobetsu, 6 ri 30 chō (16 1/2 m.);

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Mororan, 4 ri 33 chō (12 m.); Mori, by steamer (22 m.); Nanae, 7 ri 10 chō (17 1/2 m.); Hakodate, 4 ri 8 chō (10 1/2 m.); total, 45 ri 23 chō (111 1/4 m.). The greater part of the excellent road from Sapporo to the coast is flat and nearly straight, lying through a dense forest completely shutting out the view on either side. During the summer, this region is frequented by the gad-fly and the locust, the former of which is a perfect plague to the traveller, while the horses are tormented by ticks. Just before Tomakomai (Inn, Kane-su), the road emerges on the Pacific shore, and turns to the r.

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[The road to the l. leads along the coast to Yūbutsu and Sarufuto, inland from which latter place is Piratori, the largest settlement of the southern Ainos. A good description of this interesting village and of the way there is given in Miss Bird’s “Unbeaten Tracks in Japan,” Vol. II.] From here onwards there are occasional hills, and the scenery improves, especially between Shiraoi and Horobetsu, where the top of an ascent commands a charming view of the secluded bay of Rambokke. The wealth of lilies of the valley and other wild-flowers in May and June is astonishing. A few miles inland is Noboribetsu, celebrated for its natural hot baths.

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Horobetsu (Inn, Suzuki) is a mixed Japanese and Aino village, the centre for many years past of the Christianising and civilising endeavours of the Rev. John Batchelor, of the Church Missionary Society. Mororan (Inns, Maru-ichi, Ubago) is beautifully situated on a landlocked bay, but is shut out from all view of the neighbouring volcanoes. It is noted for a large sea-shell - the hotate-gai, or Pecten yessoensis. Behind the hill at the back lies an Aino village. [The traveller who does not mind bad roads and very poor accommodation may, instead of the steamer, take the coast route round the head of Volcano Bay.

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The track lies mostly along the shore, except where in two places it climbs to a considerable height among the mountains. Several Aino villages exist in this secluded region. The best are at Usu and at Abuta. An account of this route will be found in Miss Bird’s already quoted book of travels. The itinerary is as follows: Shin-Mororan to: Kyū-Mororan, 6 ri 22 chō (16 1/4 m.); Mombetsu, 3 ri 13 chō (8 1/4 m.); Abuta, 4 ri 7 chō (10 1/2 m.); Rebunge, 4 ri 4 chō (10 m.); Oshamambe, 6 ri 33 chō (17 m.); Kuroiwa, 4 ri 31 chō (11 3/4 m.); Yamakushinai, 4 ri 10 chō (10 1/2 m.); Otoshibe, 2 ri 24 chō (6 1/2 m.); Mori, 4 ri 6 chō (10 1/4 m.); total, 41 ri 6 chō (100 1/2 m.).]

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The distance accomplished by steamer from Mororan to Mori across the mouth of Volcano Bay is about 22 miles. The anchorage at Mori (Inns, Yamaka, Kawa-ji) is not good. Nevertheless the town is fairly prosperous. The return hence to Hakodate is via the Lakes (see p. 418).

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