宿屋・旅行費用

9.—Inns; Travelling Expenses. The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best accessible authorities, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name of a house specially worthy of mention. What is termed hatago at a Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single charge is made. This varies in different parts of the country; at present it ranges from 20 sen to 50 sen per head. Anything in the way of food or liquor ordered in addition to the meals supplied has to be paid for separately. There is no charge for firing, lighting, attendance, or bath, provided always the traveller is content with what is given to every one else, neither is there any for tea.

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But it is usual, shortly after arriving and being shown into a room, or in paying one’s account just before leaving, to make a present, known as chadai or “tea-money.” The latter course is recommended. With Japanese travellers, this tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, the amount of extra attention which he desires or has received, and with the quality of the accommodation. The foreign tourist is on a somewhat different footing, and there are seldom gradations of rank in his case to be considered.

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As a fair and practical solution of a vexed question, those who travel à la japonaise and who are charged in accordance with the above scale, may be recommended to make the amount of their chadai also vary from 20 sen to 50 sen per night. Therefore, for a single night’s entertainment, the cost, hatago and chadai included, may be put down at from 40 cents to $1. If two or more persons are travelling together, the chadai is increased say to one half more for two, and double for three persons. The first guest to arrive has the prior right to the bath. In some parts, especially at bathing resorts, there is a fixed rate for accommodation only, the food being charged for separately according to order.

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In such places, it is usual to make a present for distribution amongst the servants in addition to the chadai, whereas in the ordinary inns such presents are not looked for. It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for hotel accommodation and for jinrikishas. They generally weigh more, they almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely more trouble at an inn with their demands for separate rooms, fresh water in the bath, the occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook their European food in, and a dozen other such requirements, to say nothing of the necessity under which the host lies of reporting their presence to the police.

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In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikkō, Kamakura, Miyanoshita, Kyōto, Shizuoka, etc., the general charge is $2.50 or $3.50 a day, everything included except liquors. The charges at the hotels under foreign management in the Open Ports are generally slightly higher. The charge per diem for a native servant is generally 50 sen a day. The average charge (to foreigners) for jinrikishas in the most frequented portions of the country is now (1891) from 10 to 15 sen per ri, the same per hour, and $1 per diem. About 50 per cent. is added to these rates in bad weather and at night. But the tendency of late years has been towards constantly increased rates, owing to the

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8 Introduction:—Climate; Dress; Time of Visit. rise in the price of rice and other staple commodities. It is usual to give a small gratuity (sakate) to jinrikisha-men after a hard run of any distance. Perhaps one might say that the total cost to a traveller of average habits, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him a native servant, should not exceed $8 per diem. If he restricts himself to mountainous districts, the expense will be considerably less. It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which travellers in Japan put up are of three kinds: the European hotel, the Europeanised or half-European half-Japanese hotel (hoteru), and the purely native inn (yadoya).

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The tea-house (chaya) is different again, being a place where people neither sleep nor dine, but only halt for a short time to rest and take slight refreshment. Residents in Japan, however, often include inns under the denomination of tea-houses. The best style of Japanese inn is now generally supplied with a few chairs and tables; or if there are none in the house, some can be brought in from the school or the police-station hard by, where they are de rigueur. Beds are still rare; but good quilts (futon) are laid down on the mats, wherever may be most convenient; a smaller quilt will be rolled into a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net will be provided.

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It is a common Japanese custom to carry letters of introduction from inn to inn (annai-jō). This has advantages, especially in seasons of epidemic disease or under any other circumstances liable to cause the traveller to be viewed with suspicion, or when, for the purposes of any special investigation, he wishes to be brought into intimate relations with his hosts along the road. Many inns keep printed forms of annai-jō which they will fill in with the traveller’s name.

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Occasionally these, and the little paper slips in which toothpicks are brought, and the fans which it is the custom to present on departure to those guests who have given a suitable chadai, are charming specimens of Japanese taste in small matters of every-day life.

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